All About Sumps

[mopargirl201]

I am still in the set up phase. I have a 90 gal tank, 20 gal Berlin sump and no overflow. I do want to set it up so i don't have a mess when there is a power outage. i haven't known where to start on that. I have been utilizing some local resources here. The more I read, the more I try to implement stuff the more I realize there is a lot to learn in reef keeping. Is there a forum just about overflows and how to set them up?

 

[user 26995]

I am using the eshopps pf800 on my 90. All About Sumps - Page 3
It is a U-tube design.
I would also suggest increasing your sump capacity. I am using a 45 gal long tank for my sump. I have silconed in two plates of glass to make three sections. The last section for the return pump is a small section that only holds about 4 gals of water. That way, if for some reason the overflow box breaks siphon and water stops running from the tank to the sump, the only water that the return pump will be able to pump into the tank, is that 4 gallons. The overflow box is adjustable and it will determine your tank water level. If it is set low enough, that 4 gallons will not overflow your tank.
Now on your return nozzle...If the return pump stops running and if the return nozzle is set below the water line in the tank, however much water there is above it, that water will empty by reverse siphon into your sump. So what I do is set the return nozzle so that is is just breaking the surface. That also helps with surface aggitation. That way when the return pump is turned off, the return nozzle immediately sucks air and breaks the siphon and water will not run back down to the sump and overflow it.
You will get some water draining into the sump from the overflow yet, but if you set your baffles up in the sump so that the sump is only half or less than half full, you should have plenty of room for the sump to hold that water. That is why I suggest going with at larger sump. You will need room for enough water to run the skimmer and that extra room for the water from the tank if the return pump stops running.
Maybe I can do a video for you if you feel you need it.
Anyway, any more questions, dont hesitate to ask.

 

[mopargirl201]

That was great info, I can implement some of the suggestions today. As for the larger sump, that will have to come a little later. I will start watching craigslist for an old aquarium. Thank you.

 

[user 26995]

That was great info, I can implement some of the suggestions today. As for the larger sump, that will have to come a little later. I will start watching craigslist for an old aquarium. Thank you.

Just keep in mind, that a larger sump will need to be placed in the stand before you put the tank on it. Or from the back before you set the stand in place. If the stand is like mine, you wont get it in from the front. I had to set mine in from the top before I set the tank on it.

 

[mopargirl201]

Actually, it is sumps that have held me up. The sump that came with my tank was too small and was missing pieces. After some help from Barbie over at Aquarium Solutions to try to make it work I decided to get a new sump. I do not think I have a enough knowledge at this point to work out the kinks on the old one not to mention it just seems way too small. I currently have two garbage cans with heaters and base rock waiting for delivery of my new sump because I emptied the tank to switch sumps. I looked back over the specs of the Berlin Sump BS-1 and I am not sure where I got the 20 gal size from, in fact it does not list its gal capacity. It is rated for up to 125 gal tank and it's dimensions are 23"x12"x14."

 

[mopargirl201]

I guess the dimensions work out to roughly 18 gal.

 

[jeepfish]

awesome thread krish really cleared up alot of questions for me thanks man

 

[Krish]

awesome thread krish really cleared up alot of questions for me thanks man

You're welcome!! Glad it helped!!


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[DUIdiver]

Are the Eshopps overflows sensitive to flow imbalance between the return and the siphon? I had a drilled tank with an overflow and this wasn't an issue. I was thinking of going the hang on overflow route, but I am worried about the return pump delivering too much or not enough and draining or overflowing my tank. I know you can always use a valve on the return to balance flows, but with algae growth and such the flow may vary. I guess I am wanting to know if the siphon overflow compensates somehow? Could you help me understand why? Is it water level?
-Bryan

 

[Krish]

Are the Eshopps overflows sensitive to flow imbalance between the return and the siphon? I had a drilled tank with an overflow and this wasn't an issue. I was thinking of going the hang on overflow route, but I am worried about the return pump delivering too much or not enough and draining or overflowing my tank. I know you can always use a valve on the return to balance flows, but with algae growth and such the flow may vary. I guess I am wanting to know if the siphon overflow compensates somehow? Could you help me understand why? Is it water level?


-Bryan

You should be fine with these once you don't exceed their recommended gph. These are actually the best at keeping their siphon etc without the need of a pump or aqualifter.

 

[user 26995]

I have used eshopps overflow on my tanks and have NEVER had a problem with them.

 

[DUIdiver]

Well I will have to see if I can plan for one. Thanks Krish

 

[Krish]

No problem!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dawg2012]

I am using the eshopps pf800 on my 90. All About Sumps - Page 3
It is a U-tube design.
I would also suggest increasing your sump capacity. I am using a 45 gal long tank for my sump. I have silconed in two plates of glass to make three sections. The last section for the return pump is a small section that only holds about 4 gals of water. That way, if for some reason the overflow box breaks siphon and water stops running from the tank to the sump, the only water that the return pump will be able to pump into the tank, is that 4 gallons. The overflow box is adjustable and it will determine your tank water level. If it is set low enough, that 4 gallons will not overflow your tank.
Now on your return nozzle...If the return pump stops running and if the return nozzle is set below the water line in the tank, however much water there is above it, that water will empty by reverse siphon into your sump. So what I do is set the return nozzle so that is is just breaking the surface. That also helps with surface aggitation. That way when the return pump is turned off, the return nozzle immediately sucks air and breaks the siphon and water will not run back down to the sump and overflow it.
You will get some water draining into the sump from the overflow yet, but if you set your baffles up in the sump so that the sump is only half or less than half full, you should have plenty of room for the sump to hold that water. That is why I suggest going with at larger sump. You will need room for enough water to run the skimmer and that extra room for the water from the tank if the return pump stops running.
Maybe I can do a video for you if you feel you need it.
Anyway, any more questions, dont hesitate to ask.

As you know I'm here trying to learn about seemingly everything at once, sumps included. While the basic idea makes total sense - glancing at the pictures in this thread - all the equipment seems kind of intimidating. I guess I just need to learn what it all is one piece at a time, and let it put itself together in my mind.

Anyway, just wanted to say that what you advised above makes perfect sense. While I'd love a new predrilled tank, I'm thinking I might go with an overflow box instead, and how you advise to set it up calms my mind quite a bit with respect to overflowing either the tank or the sump. Thanks for the post, and thanks for the thread

 

[pandora32]

It looks like a lot of equipment, and there can be, but remember, it will only get as complicated as you want it to. If your going to keep fowlr, all you need is a skimmer, return pump, and a heater or 2. If your going to have a fuge, a little light from home depot will suffice. Now, if you are going to keep alot of sps, a calcium reactor and media reactors and controllers/dosing pumps may come into play along with the above mentioned equipment. For my system, mixed reef, only sps is hardy montipora, i have my mp40 pump controllers, protien skimmer, fuge light, return pump, media reactor all under the stand and in the sump. The only equipment you see in the display is the 2 mp40 pumps. I dont run heater(s). Never had to except for initial startup. I have 3 250w hqi metal halides and 2 6' long t-5 lights, along with the 2 pumps running my skimmer and a mag 9.5 running my reactor and my pc fuge light, that all keeps the water temp between a low of 77° in the winter to a high of, oyee, 84° this last summer. Next big purchase i need is a chiller. Dont forget, all this equipment has power cords that can also make it look alot more intimidating than it is.

 

[Dawg2012]

Lol... my post was seven days ago and it already all seems much less intimidating. I just ordered a drilled 75 and stand, and a 30 long for the sump.

I really like the idea shown above of T'ing off the return line for the refugium.

Anyway, lots of research to do, and a new acronym (sps) to go look up. I don't want to do anything now that's going to prevent me from keeping something I want down the road. I want to make sure my sump is ready as I'll have to put it in the stand before the tank, which means once it's configured, it's not likely to change.

Thanks for the help

 

[swifter]

nice thread. this will be helpful as I set up my Sump.

thanks again

 

[MAC2]

One of the best things I did was add a second sump outside. There was to much equipment, heat, and noise coming from the sump under my display tank (220). I moved the circulation pumps outside to my second sump and I was able to add more rock and water. I was also able to add fans to help with getting rid of the extra heat in the summer.

 

[pandora32]

Outside as in a garage or under the house?

 

[MAC2]

I live in a condo and I have the sump in a storage room on my outside deck. I can regulate the heat by how far I leave the door open. In the winter the door is almost fully closed and in the summer the door is left all the way open. The chiller and heater works less and helps with the power bill as well. This set-up was motivated by a total system crash. I was on a two week vacation and the chiller broke and killed almost everything in my tank. At least I have a fight chance if this happens again-I can cool the outside sump with fans and I have a small drop-in chiller I can add.