440sixpack
Member
What anemones will false perculas go to... i have a false percula and wont go to my bubble and i heard they are the best anemones for them but hasnt gone to it for a year now.
Anemone help
- Thread starter 440sixpack
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barrierreefcf
Sponsor
In the wild its "Ritteri" also called "Magnificent" and S. gigantea Carpets if I remember correctly. The "Ritteri" can be difficult to keep. Not impossible but challenging for sure. Most of the time if you wait long enough your Ocellaris will take to Bubbles and Sebaes in captivity (usually less than 3 months). Shoot...I even had one go into a Condylactus before. Excuse the dated common names. Yours obviously has resisted so you might look for one of the others.
440sixpack
Member
Well at one point a had a carpet anemone and it went to it and hosted it but it was too big for the tank so i had to get rid of it and now wont go to anything... just swims around
vwmoneypit
one larg lps
one carpet for sale!
vwmoneypit
one larg lps
or trade ?
caribewolf
Member
Poor Anemone!!!!
I got a bubble anemone and he was so happy on his rock, eating silversides in his very own biocube. I decided that I would move him and realized that I had not covered up the filtration vents and part of him had gotten sucked in. I pulled thinking that he would let go and I tore him in half. I placed him in another tank, smaller, another biocube with covered vents and I dont know if he is going to survive. It was like all his innards were torn out. I feel so bad. Here are a couple pics of what he looks like.
I got a bubble anemone and he was so happy on his rock, eating silversides in his very own biocube. I decided that I would move him and realized that I had not covered up the filtration vents and part of him had gotten sucked in. I pulled thinking that he would let go and I tore him in half. I placed him in another tank, smaller, another biocube with covered vents and I dont know if he is going to survive. It was like all his innards were torn out. I feel so bad. Here are a couple pics of what he looks like.
Krish
RF STAFF
Keep in mind as well that your clown may not host an anemone regardless of what species is placed in there. This has happened many times to reefkeepers myself included 
caribewolf
Member
thanks toolie, You have given me hope. I will keep you up to date.
caribe
caribe
caribewolf
Member
Massacred anemone the day after
This is how the anemone looked like the day after. Have not yet decided what to feed it or if to feed it.
This is how the anemone looked like the day after. Have not yet decided what to feed it or if to feed it.
Jobiwan
Well-known member
Looks like he's gonna make it, when you do feed him try using food that is chopped up very fine and target feed him with a baster etc so he gets the nutrients quicker and more effectively, I feed all my anemones that way if I do feed them, never have the half digested large pieces of glop polluting my tank ....
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2003
- Messages
- 2,935
LEAVE IT ALONE!
Sorry to "Shout" but I cant stress this enough....seriously, dont feed it, dont do anything else to it for several weeks.
Couple of things:
1...why did you move the anemone? If its not moving, leave it alone. These animals will move on their own to reach their preferred location in the tank. Often, this is not where we would like them to go. They can and will move on their own, that is one major reason why Anthony Calfo and others are strongly against keeping anemone's in tanks with corals
2...if you're going to keep an anemone in a tank, you need to keep in mind they will move to where they want, and they dont have eyes or a brain, so powerheads, pump intakes or impellors are not something they see as a threat. You will need to cover them up, or find a way to make them inaccessible to the anemone to prevent what happened to yours. Also keep in mind, they can and do move by inflating with water, releasing their hold, and drifting with the current, which can blow them into powerheads, pump intakes and impellors...Ive had it happen to me before, so I know what I'm talking about.
3...If your anemone gets stuck on a pump/powerhead or impellor, DONT REMOVE IT! Turn off the pump, and allow the anemone to work itself free. This is much less stressfull and damaging to the anemone. Let them get themselves out, and you stand a better chance at saving the anemone. Seriously.
4...When anemones get stressed, (like after being sucked into something), they will expell their Zooxanthellae, (the photosynthetic algae inside them that gives them color), which is why they look white. This also happens when they are shipped. The term for this is bleached. Your anemone is currently bleached out. It still has some zoox inside it, but it is very white. White is not a natural color for anemones.
5...Feeding your anemone after being shredded can actually cause more stress on the anemone. I dont know why, but I can tell you from experiance that it happens. Best bet is to let it recuperate for a few weeks, and then try feeding it small amounts. If it accepts the food, then feed it three times weekly, (again in small amounts...too much food will either stress the anemone or the undigested bits will get spit out...making a nasty mess to be cleaned out by you later.)
6...after a shredding like yours, if possible, try to keep clowns out of the anemone until it heals up. They can also be a stress on the anemone.
Just to give you some background on where my information comes from....
I've been keeping anemones for about 7 years now. I currently have 4.
(1) Heteractis magnifica that I've had for almost 3 years
(1) Heteractis magnifica that I've had for 3 months. Two weeks after I got it, it wandered into a pump, and severely shredded. The shredded tentacles released their nematocysts into the water column, killing all my fish except my clown fish. Its still allive, and I've been working very hard at nursing it back to health. I fed it 3 days after it got injured, and it promptly expelled most of its zoox, nearly killing it. It just yesterday ate something substantial w/o expelling more zoox....I think may have turned the corner and will be able to get it back to full health.
(1) Heteractis crispa that I've had for almost a year and has trippled in size.
(1) LTA, (M.doreensis) that I've had for about 6 months.
I am by no means an expert, and certainly dont want to come off as one, but I do have experiance with anemones....
For more information on keeping anemones, you can click on the link in my signature which will take you to the RF Resource Library. Look in the invertebrate section, and you will find several articles on anemones....
Nick
Sorry to "Shout" but I cant stress this enough....seriously, dont feed it, dont do anything else to it for several weeks.
Couple of things:
1...why did you move the anemone? If its not moving, leave it alone. These animals will move on their own to reach their preferred location in the tank. Often, this is not where we would like them to go. They can and will move on their own, that is one major reason why Anthony Calfo and others are strongly against keeping anemone's in tanks with corals
2...if you're going to keep an anemone in a tank, you need to keep in mind they will move to where they want, and they dont have eyes or a brain, so powerheads, pump intakes or impellors are not something they see as a threat. You will need to cover them up, or find a way to make them inaccessible to the anemone to prevent what happened to yours. Also keep in mind, they can and do move by inflating with water, releasing their hold, and drifting with the current, which can blow them into powerheads, pump intakes and impellors...Ive had it happen to me before, so I know what I'm talking about.
3...If your anemone gets stuck on a pump/powerhead or impellor, DONT REMOVE IT! Turn off the pump, and allow the anemone to work itself free. This is much less stressfull and damaging to the anemone. Let them get themselves out, and you stand a better chance at saving the anemone. Seriously.
4...When anemones get stressed, (like after being sucked into something), they will expell their Zooxanthellae, (the photosynthetic algae inside them that gives them color), which is why they look white. This also happens when they are shipped. The term for this is bleached. Your anemone is currently bleached out. It still has some zoox inside it, but it is very white. White is not a natural color for anemones.
5...Feeding your anemone after being shredded can actually cause more stress on the anemone. I dont know why, but I can tell you from experiance that it happens. Best bet is to let it recuperate for a few weeks, and then try feeding it small amounts. If it accepts the food, then feed it three times weekly, (again in small amounts...too much food will either stress the anemone or the undigested bits will get spit out...making a nasty mess to be cleaned out by you later.)
6...after a shredding like yours, if possible, try to keep clowns out of the anemone until it heals up. They can also be a stress on the anemone.
Just to give you some background on where my information comes from....
I've been keeping anemones for about 7 years now. I currently have 4.
(1) Heteractis magnifica that I've had for almost 3 years
(1) Heteractis magnifica that I've had for 3 months. Two weeks after I got it, it wandered into a pump, and severely shredded. The shredded tentacles released their nematocysts into the water column, killing all my fish except my clown fish. Its still allive, and I've been working very hard at nursing it back to health. I fed it 3 days after it got injured, and it promptly expelled most of its zoox, nearly killing it. It just yesterday ate something substantial w/o expelling more zoox....I think may have turned the corner and will be able to get it back to full health.
(1) Heteractis crispa that I've had for almost a year and has trippled in size.
(1) LTA, (M.doreensis) that I've had for about 6 months.
I am by no means an expert, and certainly dont want to come off as one, but I do have experiance with anemones....
For more information on keeping anemones, you can click on the link in my signature which will take you to the RF Resource Library. Look in the invertebrate section, and you will find several articles on anemones....
Nick
caribewolf
Member
Thanks Nick. Will do as you have recommended. Intake on pump covered up. Powerhead covered up as well. Will leave alone. what I have done however is done like a 1/4 water change to ensure that the water parameters remain suitable for the anemone. The lights get turned on at the same time each day and go off at the same time each day. Will keep you up to date.
Tony
Tony
BarrierTom
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2008
- Messages
- 8
how is he?
hey, sorry about the anemone. how is he doing now?
i really think you should have kept him in the same tank, dont put him back now, too many changes. next time peel him off how ever you can, never pull, same as xenias or mushrooms. you gotta work him off. good luck
hey, sorry about the anemone. how is he doing now?
i really think you should have kept him in the same tank, dont put him back now, too many changes. next time peel him off how ever you can, never pull, same as xenias or mushrooms. you gotta work him off. good luck
caribewolf
Member
Anemone died after water change. I guess the shock was too much. Have another one now. Have taken care to ensure that he does not get into filtration system. As a matter of fact, he has decided to split. I am not feeding him until he does. Water parameters fine at this time.
Caribe
Caribe
spongebob lover
flea whisperer
sorry to hear about your anemone dood .
one thing, my ocellaris used to host a long tenticle anemone, it took her about a year and something but it finally did, then after i moved into my now house, the anemone died and she went into hosting xenia
.one thing, my ocellaris used to host a long tenticle anemone, it took her about a year and something but it finally did, then after i moved into my now house, the anemone died
and she went into hosting xenia
Katchupoy
Well-known member
I think Im too late on this thread. But like what MAXX said. Also 1/4 water change is too much for the rbta specially a stressed one. So if you will do water change then make it really small increment. maybe 1/20 of total water volume. You can do it more frequently if you want lime maybe 2 times a week.
Also may I add that they dont like really strong flow and for this they will move to more quieter location.
Also they dont like sand. so if you want to mix them with corals (strongly not recommending it) then isolate them with its own rock (like an island). so they cannot cross to another rock.
I have BB tank so what i did was elevate them on a pedestal made of eggcrate and pvc plumbing. in this case they stayed. its not a guarantee but in my observation they did not cross the eggcrate.
hope this helps if not to you, then to other reades here.
like maxx here, im no expert, (maybe Elmo can kick in) but I used to have more than 20 RBTA's and imagine how can you contain them in several rocks without them going all over the place.
Also may I add that they dont like really strong flow and for this they will move to more quieter location.
Also they dont like sand. so if you want to mix them with corals (strongly not recommending it) then isolate them with its own rock (like an island). so they cannot cross to another rock.
I have BB tank so what i did was elevate them on a pedestal made of eggcrate and pvc plumbing. in this case they stayed. its not a guarantee but in my observation they did not cross the eggcrate.
hope this helps if not to you, then to other reades here.
like maxx here, im no expert, (maybe Elmo can kick in) but I used to have more than 20 RBTA's and imagine how can you contain them in several rocks without them going all over the place.
Katchupoy
Well-known member
another thing, about your clown not going to your rbta. I have the same experience. what i did was introduced/borrowed another clown that you know host rbta's. Most of the time, these flase percs were captive raised and havent seen rbta's before and does not know the sensation feeling when with rbtas.
so after introducing one then it will learn from it. this learning process happens slowly so patience is needed. at first they will try to dance on it but this will be hard on them since they will have this stinging feeling on them at first (specially adult). this is because they dont have nematocyst coating on their bodies. so it will hurt at first then they will develop and coat it in their whole body so they will become immune of its stings. thats why you will see them squeezing their body to its host.
so after introducing one then it will learn from it. this learning process happens slowly so patience is needed. at first they will try to dance on it but this will be hard on them since they will have this stinging feeling on them at first (specially adult). this is because they dont have nematocyst coating on their bodies. so it will hurt at first then they will develop and coat it in their whole body so they will become immune of its stings. thats why you will see them squeezing their body to its host.
Aquanaut
I Love Big Torts!
Generally, fish enjoy cover to explore & host in. I never had any luck hosting to carpets. Given a choice, Percula have hosted Hammer corals and bubbles. My wild caught Percs spawn constantly below my Rosies for months at a time. See my post under RTA FS
