Any appliance repair people here???

[eww]

We just had our dryer go out and wouldn't you know it it's right after Christmas. I am probably going to dive right in and try and figure it out myself but I thought I would check here if anyone was extra handy at this sort of thing and wanted to lend a hand or take on some side work. It's a newer Kenmore model with all the push buttons and electronics .

 

[Peppie]

I might be able to help.. If it is not the electronic part.

I went to the google site for Kenmore appliances and read some of the reviews/problems/repairs. That helped me realize I needed to replace a small switch in the back for something to do with the door closing, to allow the machine to turn on.

Give me a jingle. maybe we can track down the problem

 

[returnofsid]

Is the dryer still operating, the drum turning, but not heating up OR is the entire thing not operating?

This could help narrow the problem down. If everything is operating, but not heating up, it's in the 220V system and could be the heating element, which are usually fairly simple to replace.

Everything else operates on a 110V system, heat operates off of the 220V system.

 

[eww]

There is power going to the dryer because the light turns on when you open the door. The control panel on front with all the buttons and led lights is all dark and will not operate anything. We have tried unplugging it for the 5 min they recommend but ti did nothing. We also tried the button sequence to enter into the diagnostic system but that didn't work either. We are thinking it might be in the electronic computer board???

 

[Peppie]

There is power going to the dryer because the light turns on when you open the door. The control panel on front with all the buttons and led lights is all dark and will not operate anything. We have tried unplugging it for the 5 min they recommend but ti did nothing. We also tried the button sequence to enter into the diagnostic system but that didn't work either. We are thinking it might be in the electronic computer board???

OK that is my hint to just step away....
Good luck someone here will be able to help better than I.

 

[eww]

Oh wait Dave... We think it might be mechanical... yeah thats it, mechanical... You should come over and try and fix it with your jig saw

Just kidding of course. It is definitely not mechanical that we can tell.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

There is power going to the dryer because the light turns on when you open the door. The control panel on front with all the buttons and led lights is all dark and will not operate anything. We have tried unplugging it for the 5 min they recommend but ti did nothing. We also tried the button sequence to enter into the diagnostic system but that didn't work either. We are thinking it might be in the electronic computer board???

The timers (computor board) are the weak link in these appliances. Looks like your guess is probably right. If a nice unit, you can buy the board on line and replace it yourself with a couple screws and a couple wire connections. If an older or cheaper unit, buy a newer one on craigs. There are PLENTY and amazingly cheap!

 

[TheKraken]

The web is great for appliance repair. The washer looks for all the world that the top separates from the sides... Rather you undo two screws and the whole carcass tips forward (cab-over). I have rebuilt the fridge with the exception of the closed loop. I just use the local appliance store to get parts. Not cheap, but not the $$$ of new.

Can you post a part number or picture of the serial tag?

Dryer Repair Help - Free Troubleshooting, Videos and Instructions

If you get a new set, some people use waste RO water for the washer.

 

[eww]

FYI... the complete model number is 110.85091400 I see the replacement ciruit board on the site you linked Kraken. I just want to make sure this is the defective part before we order anything.

 

[jrgilles]

Sounds like the circuit to me. Maybe open it up and check all the connections. Make sure nothing is loose. Could put a volt meter to it.

Often on appliances you can find a chart for the board that tells you what the voltages are supposed to be between points. You get a multimeter and tough the 2 probes to various points and write down the number. Compare this to a chart and it will give you diagnosis of issues.

Well, last time I was working on them 10 years ago they did anyway, who knows now.... Could at least check that the power plug to the board is hot.

 

[eww]

We are stumped completely. All diagnostics attempted with the multi-meter are turning up nothing. All the directions we have found online have stated the front console panel has to be in "diagnostic mode" and since it is completely non-operational we can't enter that mode. So now I have no idea if the dead zero readings I'm getting are that way because of a failed board or because of not being able to enter the dia. mode. This doesn't help me in figuring out if it's the main circuit board or the front console assembly that is bad. Since the main circuit board is $226.00 and the front console assembly is $272.00 buying both to "try" them is out of the question unless they will let me return the one that I didn't end up needing. I know that is not usually the case with electronics though. With Murphy as present as he is in this house no matter what one I buy first will be the wrong one .

 

[TheKraken]

Is this the problem? Some info on what to look for with the volt meter on the control board and a differential on the display. Sounds like a liberal return policy for unused parts.

[FIXED] Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer - no console display

I am with Mike in you should look at the warranty if this is newer or a used replacement to make sure the cost of the display is reasonable.

 

[TheKraken]

Here is the voltage pin out diagrams you should have on hand.

Why would my Kenmore Elite dryer just stop working, no smoke, no noise?

Yeah internets!