ATP123
Huh?
Thanks. The zoas is also looking good.
ATP's 120 Gallon Oceanic Tech Tank
- Thread starter ATP123
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Thanks. The zoas is also looking good.
Sorry, I'm not quite understanding your description as to where the water enters your tank. Sounds like you have 3 different spots where water comes back into your display, 2 at the top & 1 at the bottom, is that correct?
But yes, if there's a way you can remove the one that is the cause of the flooding, it would be much much better than flooding your loving room
There are other ways to deal with deadspots besides your return lines...
ATP123
Huh?
From right to left:
-1st red line with circle at the end is the short locline outlet
-2nd red line w/o circle is the one that goes all the way down at the bottom of the tank.
-3rd red line with circlie at the end is short locline outlet 2
So I was planning on just cutting line 2 and make it the same as line 1 and 3
-1st red line with circle at the end is the short locline outlet
-2nd red line w/o circle is the one that goes all the way down at the bottom of the tank.
-3rd red line with circlie at the end is short locline outlet 2
So I was planning on just cutting line 2 and make it the same as line 1 and 3
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ATP123
Huh?
just come by any time
the 65 gallon has been broken down and is awaiting cleaning and buffing. Than I'll be selling it. The 125 will be a semi-fowlr
Put some corals that I couldn't fit in there. Mostly xenias, shrooms, one purple rim, a ton of digitas (need to get rid) and a bonsai that I accidently broke.125 will have two butterflies arriving soon.
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From right to left:
-1st red line with circle at the end is the short locline outlet
-2nd red line w/o circle is the one that goes all the way down at the bottom of the tank.
-3rd red line with circlie at the end is short locline outlet 2
So I was planning on just cutting line 2 and make it the same as line 1 and 3
Ah, OK, I got it now...takes me a while sometimes :idea:
So, if all 3 originate from the top of your tank, you can keep the 3rd one there, but you should drill a small siphon break hole just below the normal water line, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 inch below the surface (you should do this on all 3 lines if not already done).
The holes only have to be big enough to allow air, maybe 1/8 inch or so diameter. Drill them in such a manner so the holes don't point upward, or in any direction that would cause water to squirt out of your tank. You may also want to drill the holes so they face towards the back wall of your tank (for asthetics mainly).
Under normal conditions when your return pump is working, a small squirt of water will come out of these holes, but no big deal (unless it somehow squirts out of your tank!) But, when your return pump stops working, the water in your display will drain down, but as soon as the water level drops down to these holes, air enters and the siphon breaks
HTH & Good luck,
Rob
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Hey, one more thought...if all 3 returns originate from 1 common pipe located in your overflow (using a tee or something), then you may be able to drill 1 siphon break on that 1 common pipe, instead of 3 separate siphon breaks.
ATP123
Huh?
Thanks. I'll try and drill it first. If everything else fails, I'll just disconnect the locline.
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slim_jim989
Lion in the cave
Hey man so hows it going? are you able to use that ballast I sold ya? And I have that same exact tank lol but in much perrttty condition. The way the tank is bone stock it has the 4 holes in the overflow, i think 1 1/2 inch holes. But anyways they come with megaflow overflow system and on there return lines which are the two outside holes. They have the pvc pipe and then a 90* elbow. Depending on if you still have them which i dont think so. They drilled a 1/8 hole. on the inside of the 90* to break the siphon and not need for a check valve and if it does squirt it just goes back into the overflow. hope that helps
ATP123
Huh?
hey jon,
so I bought your ballast thinking of setting up a 300 and I found a dual one for cheap so 3x400. My floor couldn't support the 300 so after much consideration, we diceded not to as of now. So we bought this 120 and it came with everything including a dual 400w MH fixture.
The previous owner kind of modify it and with that locline, I couldn't even see inside the overflow.
Si I'm not using yours as of now, but it'll be a back up and if we get a new tank
lol
slim_jim989
Lion in the cave
Yeah or turn that 65 into a frag tank lol. And just take a look at your overflow and it's a quick fix
ATP123
Huh?
lol. I don't like that 65. I'm not a fan of acrylic tanks in SW.
slim_jim989
Lion in the cave
I had an acrylic tank and i got scratch up so quickly thats why i went with the tech 120 tank and i like it alot. lol I know yours is filled but if you could look at the bottom of the tank from underneth. in the back right corner should be a small sticker. what does it read? it ill tell you what year your tank was built haha.
ATP123
Huh?
Is it on the rim or on the glass? I couldn't see any on the glass so its either on the rim or someone peeled it off i suppost
The 65 is not really scratches, but mor of hazy. I bought this scratch remover kit that gives cloth sandpaper thing and that removed the sratches.....it also caused the hazziness. lol. So I'm going to buff it out with novus before selling it.
slim_jim989
Lion in the cave
yeah it is on the glass and i just looked at mine and to view the numbers and letters you have to look from the top. and its in the very very corner. and its a small white piece
ATP123
Huh?
I see it. Part of it has been ripped off so I couldn't see the date. The part I could see was it was assembled by Rich T.
slim_jim989
Lion in the cave
Okthats fine
ATP123
Huh?
Drilled the locline today and tested it by turning off the pump. It worked and my sump didn't flood .....it almost though. Need to make another one a little bit higher and than I probably don't even need a checkvalve.
Appreciate it roblou for your help
.....it almost though. Need to make another one a little bit higher and than I probably don't even need a checkvalve.Appreciate it roblou for your help
Drilled the locline today and tested it by turning off the pump. It worked and my sump didn't flood
Appreciate it roblou for your help
Very cool! Glad it worked, and yes as long as you don't flood when your return pump is off, then there should be no need for the check valve.
Rob
ATP123
Huh?
The stand is covered with the stained poplar and is complete. With the exception of the top and bottoms....also the doors
The two side cabinets's skeleton are completed. Next step is to make the shelfs and install/stain the wood that will be covering it.
Left Side:
bottom-Calcium Reactor
middle-controllers and wiring
top-storage
Right Side:
bottom-ATO
middle-storage
top-storage
]
(the door is not black. That was the door that came with it, but I'm not using it)
The two side cabinets's skeleton are completed. Next step is to make the shelfs and install/stain the wood that will be covering it.
Left Side:
bottom-Calcium Reactor
middle-controllers and wiring
top-storage
Right Side:
bottom-ATO
middle-storage
top-storage
(the door is not black. That was the door that came with it, but I'm not using it)
ATP123
Huh?
a few weeks ago, I noticed some of my corals started to loose color. Checked my parameters and everything was as usual. A few days ago, my corals started to bleach and again, everything was in check. Until I felt that the water was a bit warm. I don't really check my temperature until summer, but I guess I should now. It was 88 degrees. (no problem with heater btw)
I started to put ice cubes in bags into the water, but it only camedown a couple of degrees after about an hour with the lights off. Today, I took off my canopy and the temperature dropped pretty fast. I decided to re design the top It won't be a full canopy, but only a place to hang the MH and a few spotlights for various affects.
My new design. There will be a piece of wooden beam across the two side cabinets. The wooden beam is supported by a metal rod like thing for extra support to hang the MH. On the four corners, there will be 4 small lights for a little thing I'm thinking about.
I started to put ice cubes in bags into the water, but it only camedown a couple of degrees after about an hour with the lights off. Today, I took off my canopy and the temperature dropped pretty fast. I decided to re design the top It won't be a full canopy, but only a place to hang the MH and a few spotlights for various affects.
My new design. There will be a piece of wooden beam across the two side cabinets. The wooden beam is supported by a metal rod like thing for extra support to hang the MH. On the four corners, there will be 4 small lights for a little thing I'm thinking about.
