AutoTOpoff.com

[burning2nd]

IS this worth it, and is this what i want????


http://www.autotopoff.com/products.html

single switch sump mount, .5-1inch

RODI solenoid (should open and close with the single switch's help)

tubeing 30 feet 1/4

i have the T and the ball vauvle

and that snail guard


is that ok for a auto topoff?

 

[DonW]

Its not the selenoid I would have chose but it will work. Not liking the 110v.

Don

 

[burning2nd]

this will keep the level in my tank the same then right?

 

[DonW]

this will keep the level in my tank the same then right?

Yes it will do exactly that.

Don

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Some use a holding tank for RO water, and the ATO draws from it in lieu of direct from the RO unit. If you have a small RO unit, can allow one to store the slowly produced product for water changes.

 

[Jumpincactus]

You might consider getting a double switch setup. That way if one fails the other can shut things down if # one fails. I have seen tanks get flooded with fresh water and dropping salinity out of control. It will aslo keep you from flooding especially if your water source is large.

The one switch will tell your pump when the water is low and needs topoff and the second switch will kick in and shut your pump down before it gets too much fresh water. For the cost it i worth the security

 

[bapski]

was also looking into a top-off system when i read this DIY article.

http://melevsreef.com/plumbing/auto_topoff.html

 

[burning2nd]

ok well i orderd it,

i understand about haveing 2 switch's but this isnt a full time install. this is only for when i need to get away for 2 or 3 days at a time


this is how it should work.

my roDI has a peirce vaulve (yellow tube) theres s ball vaulve then the inlet TDS sensor,anther ball vaulve right b4, into the unit thur the 3 out (blue line) in to the 2 Di's out (blue line) 2nd tds sensor then (this is were ill change) ill put the T right after the 2nd tds sensor, one one will go to up and over the cilling (35 ft or so) the other will go to another ball vaulve and right on the other side of that will be the auto top off for the ro tank (so i can turn the tank off but still have the unit on 4 the sump)

the line going over the ciling, will then come down the wall, to the solinoid out and in to the right side of my sump, the switch will hang in the rear of the sump (after being adjusted)

so what id like to see, is a setup with all i have to do is turn 2 ball vaulve's
and ether have my ro tank filling or my sump maintained.

i do relize that it can over flow if the switch fails of the solionid doesnt shut off. but ill deal with that all later, im trying to go to NC Camp gieger next weekend to see my brother off 2 derka derka land.

 

[burning2nd]

hey! just had a o s h!t moment.

if im pumping the water at the tee b4 the ro holding tank (heated) will the temp diffrence make an inpact on the tank.

the water comein from the ro setup, will being going in to the RIght side of the sump. the atuo switch will be on the back side to the right of the skimmer.

 

[DonW]

The float switch needs to be in the return pump section and no its no big deal with the temp. With a outupt area that small it will cycle in short intervals. Keep in mind this will also suck the life out of your membrane.

Don

 

[Sk8r]

I have one of these, the dual switch model, and the thing is so sensitive it tends to add topoff water [from an old 5g salt container with a notched rim AND LID!] by the tablespoon: the amount at any one time is not enough to worry about temp.

Don't forget to break the siphon on the topoff pump hose: drill a small hole near the top of the hose before it leaves the bucket, and do not remove the lid from the bucket until you've unplugged the topoff unit, or you could get a faceful of water.

Also when you are doing anything that lowers water significantly in your sump, add "unplug/plug in autotopoff" to your list of must-do's. If the thing is running while the sump is being lowered for some reason, it will fill it up again.

I add dKH buffer to my ro/di topoff water. Saves a job.

 

[burning2nd]

nope. try ageain.

the line will come from a tee here in the blue line

the line that ill be teeing off will be from the rodi Di membrane to a solonoid that will be controled by the switch floating in the sump right??

the temp shouldnt make a diffrence when added in little bits


my ro unit pumps water out pritty quick

 

[DonW]

nope. try ageain.

the line will come from a tee here in the blue line

the line that ill be teeing off will be from the rodi Di membrane to a solonoid that will be controled by the switch floating in the sump right??

the temp shouldnt make a diffrence when added in little bits


my ro unit pumps water out pritty quick

Like we both said the rodi will not make the tank cold. With a split sump and such a small return area you will have frequent short cycles that will have no affect on tank temp. It will drasticly shorten the life of your rodi. Those float switches are very sensitive and use a very short shaft.

Don

 

[burning2nd]

i dont know what that means, short shaft little bit of play?

the top off will only be for when i have to go away for a day or 2

i cant leave the house for more then a couple of days anyway

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.oceanussystems.com/index.aspx

I just ordered one of these units, a little pricey but well built!

 

[burning2nd]

i cant see what that is.

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.oceanussystems.com/products/atlas.aspx

 

[DonW]

i cant see what that is.

Another auto top off, but it comes in a cool box.

Don

 

[Scooterman]

Actually it has level controllers high & low & one for the main display, it will shut your main pump off & doser when you reach a hi Or a low, so you don't burn up your pump, It uses an industrial grade box, cables & GFCI, Stainless solenoid for your RO/DI unit. I added another circuit to the one I'm getting to also shut down my chiller when the main pump would be shut down during a low, one last thing it will shut down the pumps if you get a High in the main display so you don't pump water all over your flooring, it has a on/off switch to easily shut it off during water changes also, & displays the connection when the sensors are on & working. Yea little fancy pants but worth the built in safety, figure while I'm building a new tank, still broke anyways what is another $200 LOL. I do have a solid state level controller from my last tank I may also use but it would need to be a place that isn't as wavy as the sump area, it has not cover for the sensor.

 

[ClamLubber]

Once you have it set up you may change your mind on just using it when gone. I have the double switchs on all my sumps and love how it keeps the salinity from fluctuating. They are very sensitive as mentioned and will click on and off with tiny amounts added at a time so it wont effect temprature. I use a 5 gal bucket to recieve water from the RO (bucket is switched also) There is a pump in the bucket circulating/aerating the water and providing the pressure to feed the line running out of the bucket to the sumps. I am considering adding buffer to all the tanks by adding it to bucket occasionally. I have been pleased with the autotopoff.com product. I'd suggest getting the double switches though for safety.