Best way to connect live rock

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bbauer

Active member
Joined
Sep 9, 2005
Messages
41
Location
Glendale Arizona
I ordered 30 pounds of tonga branch rock online and I recieved a few good sized pieces. Along with my order I recieved several small pieces that my aquascape really would not benefit from by themselves. If i was able to glue them together or connect them somehow I could probably make a pretty cool looking rock out of all the smaller pieces. What is the best method to connect these small pieces together without sacrificing water quality??
 
People have had success with all of the above. I've tried the epoxy before but didn't work so well for me because I was afraid to let the rock dry out while waiting for the epoxy to dry. Zip ties and dowels are probably the easiest IMO:)
 
i assume hydralic cement is reef safe after it's 5 minutes by the way you all are talking about it

*edit i did a bit more reading on it, hydraulic cement isn't much different then portland just cures real fast, i assume it works for bonding rocks since it's thinner than making live rock out of it, but it still will raise ph and alk just not as much and for not as long as making live rock out of it
 
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Currently the tonga rock I purchased is curing in a 30 gallon tub. If I cement the rocks together and I allow time for the cement to dry, obviosly this would have to be done out of the water. Would this become a problem for the curing process for the rock? Or better yet, do i have to re cure the rock after it has been out of the water for a substantial amoun t of time?? How long does it take for marine apoxy or hydraulic cement to fully dry?
 
i left my cured rock out for around 1/2 an hour for a solid bond. really all depends on the sizes your bonding, just remember that if you break the bond in the first 5-10 minutes then you're pretty much screwd and you may just have to redo that one.

my tank experienced a mini-cycle after it went back in but i had no livestock when i did it.
 
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How long does it take for marine apoxy or hydraulic cement to fully dry?
Cement does not need to dry. It only needs to cure or solidify enough to not be washed away. It is a chemical reaction that occurs and causes it to solidfy. Normal cement (concrete, mortar thinset, etc.) takes 28 days to fully cure. Builders surely dont keep concrete under water, for brigdes, dry for that length of time. IMO as long as the hydraulic cement is cured enough to move you should be able to move it back into the tank to save as much livestock as possible as long as the PH spike doesnt kill it.
 
A trick I learned from a fellow reefer is to use two part epoxy AND superglue gell. Put a drop on each side of the epoxy and push the pieces together for 15 seconds. Let the epoxy set for while until it sets.
 
I prefer a masonry drill bit and 1/2" or even 3/4" acrylic rods. Ive done it a bucnh of different ways and prefer the acrylic rod. Coat hangers flex too much. If you plan on stacking stuff above it i like to have it not move at all. As well the thicker stuff just grips the two pices together better.

A lot of different ways to do it though and make it work, thats just my $.02
 
plastic coat hangers or acrilic wedges

cut plastic coat hangers and shove into pre drilled holes.Pieces of acrilic cut into wedge's works better in my oppinion,than u can hammer them into the hole untill snug[no cement,or glue needed.When the smaller piece comes through the other side you can quickly heat it with a propane torch,and eithr bend it over or smash it back into the hole creating a supper bond that is also nearly invisable.
 
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