Little or no coralline growth and hair algae have been a never ending problem for me since i bought some LR from a "friend." I've never used any phophate remover because im not sure which option is best. There are so many contradicting opinions on this topic out there it has deterred me from using any at all. I finally got fed up with the long hair algae in my tank and decided to give in and buy a phophat remover. So what are people's opinions as to what the BEST option for phos removal? Reactor? Phosban? Phosguard?
BEST Way to Remove Phosphates
- Thread starter tonytran
- Start date
Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
Start with RO water. As to what is already present, Phosban or Rowa works well.
Snowboarda42
Cirrhitichthys falco
How do those Phosban reactors do?
As mentioned above, eliminating the source of phosphates should be first on the list. Don't over feed, wash/thaw frozen food, avoid flake food, skim well and of course, RO water. The phosban reactors run phosban or rowaphos - they work well.
Mat
Mat
Damsel13
Well-known member
hi bc_slc. Nice to meet you and good luck with your problem. wash/thaw rinse in RO/DI makes a huge difference I believe.
I've used RO water ever since i set up my tank, so one vote for Phosban and one for Rowa. Thanks.
Reeferdude
Reeferdude
What's your fish population and your feeding schedule?
IMO Phosban or Rowa in a reactor.
What is your level of Phosphate and nitrate?
What is your level of Phosphate and nitrate?
In my 90 gallon i only have 3 fish. 1 clarkii, 1 yellow tang, and one mural goby. I feed only once every two days and feed only a minimal amount, thats why i cant figure out what is fueling this intense hair growth.
Im not sure what my phosphate levels are but my nitrates measure a 5 using salifert testers. I just put some chaeto in my sump about a week ago but i havent noticed any difference since then but it is probaly too early to see anyhow.
I could be mistaken, but I think it's pretty much impossible to get an accurate phosphate test of your tank water. It seems that I've read that the phosphates in our tanks get bound up in the substrate and rock and because of this, we can't get a proper test reading. I know several reputable LFS that don't even sell Salifert Phosphate test kits because of this.
On the other hand, you can test phosphates of your tap or RO/DI water. I'd start by testing that. That'll give you a starting point and might point to a problem with your RO/DI unit.
A couple things that can help is getting rid of detritus. When doing a water change, use a turkey baster or a power head to blow all the loose stuff off of your rockwork and suck it up. Also try getting all the detritus off of the sand that you're able to.
It's also a common idea that crushed coral can cause more of a phosphate and nitrate problem than sand. Don't know what you have for a substrate though.
Adding Chaeto to your sump should start lowering your nitrate levels soon. If possible, have flow in your sump to keep your ball of Chaeto continuously rolling.
On the other hand, you can test phosphates of your tap or RO/DI water. I'd start by testing that. That'll give you a starting point and might point to a problem with your RO/DI unit.
A couple things that can help is getting rid of detritus. When doing a water change, use a turkey baster or a power head to blow all the loose stuff off of your rockwork and suck it up. Also try getting all the detritus off of the sand that you're able to.
It's also a common idea that crushed coral can cause more of a phosphate and nitrate problem than sand. Don't know what you have for a substrate though.
Adding Chaeto to your sump should start lowering your nitrate levels soon. If possible, have flow in your sump to keep your ball of Chaeto continuously rolling.
Boomer
Well-known member
I do not have much to add but to say the GFO's are by far the best choice, i.e., Phosban, ROWA, Warner Marine PhoSar (especially their new PhoSar HC, not the PhoSar which is about the same as the others.)
Some things to read and learn about PO4 and PO4 removers
Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.htm
Aluminum and aluminum-based phosphate binders
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm
Phosphorus: Algae's Best Friend
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
Some things to read and learn about PO4 and PO4 removers
Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.htm
Aluminum and aluminum-based phosphate binders
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm
Phosphorus: Algae's Best Friend
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
jedimike
Well-known member
I just purchased a phosphate reactor. I use RO/DO water and skim heavily, but I still had (according to the test kit anyway) 1 mg/l of PO4. I do use flake food and don't rinse my frozen food. I could tell my SPS was not happy. I read an article in Coral (Jan '07 I believe - the one with Gargonians on the cover) and the author of the article was able to reduce his PO4 by 50% in one day using RowaPhos. Within a week his PO4 was back in check.
He also mentioned using alcohol... not sure I would try that though
He also mentioned using alcohol... not sure I would try that though
Boomer
Well-known member
Test the RO/DI water and the tap water with that kit to see what you get.
jedimike
Well-known member
I just tested my RO/DI water and the PO4 was undetectable. Also my tank has went from 1mg/l of PO4 to .3mg/l in 2 days. I'm pretty sure the source of my phosphates is an ever aging DSB (probably 6 years old). I did a pretty heavy cleaning of it and I'm fairly sure it released phosphates into the water table. It doesn't take long for the sand to turn a nice brown color in the sections exposed to the light :/ I'm going to start replacing my DSB, but for now I'm pleased with the job the Phosphate reactor is doing. SPS all made it through with the exception of a small frag of green slimer... but I'm hoping it will make a comeback.
Boomer
Well-known member
No, I don't care of organic things like alcohol in the tank
