Black Sea Cucumber?

[My2heartboys]

OK, probably wasn't too smart to do---but I bought a black sea cucumber this last weekend. I was told that it was a sand eater (which I thought would be a good thing given my tendency to overfeed)---but so far hasn't spent much time in the sand. Most of its time has been on one wall or other of the aquarium. It did eat a little on Saturday when I finally got it into the aquarium (sand mixed with a few Formula Two Marine Pellets with Garlic in it)--since then nothing.

Anybody have any experience with these critters and what they typically eat--especially favorite foods. It is moving around so I know it is still alive and I had specifically asked the person at the LFS about the possibility of the infamous "cuke nuke" and he said he had never heard of it happening to anybody he has known short of major water fouling or trauma.

I also figured that sand eaters would tend to be more hardy than a brightly colored one. Was I wrong????

Anne

 

[daytonaconnecti]

try this out, it may help http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2003/invert.htm down in the middle it talks about the black sea one....

 

[My2heartboys]

try this out, it may help http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2003/invert.htm down in the middle it talks about the black sea one....

Thanks, although I am not sure it helped all that much at this point. I did know that one of the major problems with the sea cukes in general was getting enough food--thus the concern because he was not on the sand. This morning I intentionally dropped a bunch of shrimp and formula two pellets onto the sand in hopes of luring him onto it--so far a no go. I do see its feeder tentacles out, though--so I dumped in some filter feeder stuff (all kent products) to cover that aspect as well. I guess the saying "we shall see" applies. I guess it still could be adapting to current surroundings. If it has not made it to the sand by this evening I will gently try to get it off of the wall of the aquarium and put it onto the sand. I do try to give it a light touch/stroke once in a while (not very often because of stress levels) so that hopefully it can adapt a little better.

If things are not better by middle of next week--I will look to trade it off.

Anne

 

[steve-s]

They are somewhat slow to acclimate and may take a few days to settle in. Be extremely wary of water quality and don't be adding foods intentionally for their benefit. They will not "seek out" these types of target fed items and you will just end up impairing water quality in a failed attempt to feed. On that note as well, be sure to check all your nitrogens. These cukes are very sensitive to water quality issues and climbing the tank walls (especially if staying near the water surface) can often be an indication of that. If the nitrates or any other numbers are of a concern, water changes with well aged/aerated SW would needed.

Cheers
Steve

 

[My2heartboys]

They are somewhat slow to acclimate and may take a few days to settle in. Be extremely wary of water quality and don't be adding foods intentionally for their benefit. They will not "seek out" these types of target fed items and you will just end up impairing water quality in a failed attempt to feed. On that note as well, be sure to check all your nitrogens. These cukes are very sensitive to water quality issues and climbing the tank walls (especially if staying near the water surface) can often be an indication of that. If the nitrates or any other numbers are of a concern, water changes with well aged/aerated SW would needed.

Cheers
Steve

Update--

OK Steve--what could staying near the surface of the water indicate????

I very gently (holding my breath the whole time) coaxed it off of the wall of the aquarium and put it down front in the sand this evening. It has stayed there happily eating sand. I have also seen it poop out some sand as well. Wonder if it was just stressed out from the transport and transfer of aquariums?

Nitrites are at 0 and Nitrates are at 20ppm. I will be doing a water change within a day or two. I usually do not age or aerate my new water going in because I have to put it all in by hand and that does create quite a few macro bubbles while pouring it in.

Anne

 

[steve-s]

what could staying near the surface of the water indicate????

Water quality...

Nitrates are at 20ppm.

Not a good level when keeping this kind of invertebrate. I would not actually wait too long on the water change.

I usually do not age or aerate my new water going in because I have to put it all in by hand and that does create quite a few macro bubbles while pouring it in.

I don't quite understand this statement. If you mean that pouring the water in the tank help aerate it properly, it doesn't. What I mean by age and aerate is allow the new SW to properly mix with a powerhead (and heater) for at least a day prior to use. This allows the chemistry to properly stabalize and not shock the tank inhabitants. More damage is often done to animals simpley from improperly mixing/preparing for water changes.

Cheers
Steve

 

[My2heartboys]

Water quality...

Not a good level when keeping this kind of invertebrate. I would not actually wait too long on the water change.


I don't quite understand this statement. If you mean that pouring the water in the tank help aerate it properly, it doesn't. What I mean by age and aerate is allow the new SW to properly mix with a powerhead (and heater) for at least a day prior to use. This allows the chemistry to properly stabalize and not shock the tank inhabitants. More damage is often done to animals simpley from improperly mixing/preparing for water changes.

Cheers
Steve

OK, sorry to virtually drop out on you--been very busy.

Found out that I have ammonia being produced in my tank so I have been busy doing water changes. Did at least 15 gallon change out yesterday, 11 gallon change out today (plus tearing my penguin and bac pac apart to clean), will do 6 gallons of change out a day over the next few days. Out of a 40 gallon tank--that is roughly 15% a day. Will supplement calcium, mag, and stront daily to replace what is taken out through water changes.

Cuke is still alive and going--hasn't moved from the same rock for a day or two. He is still alive because I can't pick him up off of the rock----he's attached himself to it and from time to time I see him move a little.

My bubble is going downhill--but it is possible that it is starting to recover.

Spoke with one of the owners of the LFS I deal with on a daily (or almost) basis and confirmed that how I am doing the water changes is OK--especially considering the lack of room that I am dealing with.

Fish in the hospital tank are doing just great (I think). I am very slowly starting to creep the salinity back up on them. When I say slowly--a margarita snail moves faster than what I am moving at this point.

Think that brings everything up to speed.

Anne

 

[steve-s]

Found out that I have ammonia being produced in my tank so I have been busy doing water changes. Did at least 15 gallon change out yesterday, 11 gallon change out today (plus tearing my penguin and bac pac apart to clean), will do 6 gallons of change out a day over the next few days. Out of a 40 gallon tank--that is roughly 15% a day. Will supplement calcium, mag, and stront daily to replace what is taken out through water changes.

Yikes, definately yes do the water changes but I would suggest larger than 15% if you can manage it. How high was the ammonia?
FWIW, you do not need the additives after water chnages, the saltmix should take care of that for you unless it's unbalanced. As for the strontium, I see no need for that at any time.

Cuke is still alive and going--hasn't moved from the same rock for a day or two. He is still alive because I can't pick him up off of the rock----he's attached himself to it and from time to time I see him move a little.

Try not to move them or shock them suddenly, these guys can expell their gut without warning. Not a common occurance in hobby tanks but still something to be wary of. Unless it's in danger of a powerhead (which should be protected), leave them be.

Spoke with one of the owners of the LFS I deal with on a daily (or almost) basis and confirmed that how I am doing the water changes is OK--especially considering the lack of room that I am dealing with.

I mean no disrespect to your LFS, but could you elaborate on your process?

Fish in the hospital tank are doing just great (I think). I am very slowly starting to creep the salinity back up on them. When I say slowly--a margarita snail moves faster than what I am moving at this point.

How long have they been at hypo levels and how long ago was the last spot seen?

Cheers
Steve

 

[My2heartboys]

Yikes, definately yes do the water changes but I would suggest larger than 15% if you can manage it. How high was the ammonia?
FWIW, you do not need the additives after water chnages, the saltmix should take care of that for you unless it's unbalanced. As for the strontium, I see no need for that at any time.
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At this point--I don't know if I can manage it. I try---but dear hubby gripes at all of the water changes.

I use Instant Ocean and chronically run low on cal, mag, and stront
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Try not to move them or shock them suddenly, these guys can expell their gut without warning. Not a common occurance in hobby tanks but still something to be wary of. Unless it's in danger of a powerhead (which should be protected), leave them be.
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He is in no danger of a power head and seems to be doing well all things considered.

Right now it is my green bubble coral that I am more worried about as he seems to be trying to up and die on me. He is all pulled in against his skeleton and it looks like part of him has started to come off of his skeleton. I still see a good portion of green on him--so I am praying that he will pull through. Every couple of days or so I will continue to try to lay a piece of squid or something on him. Not a lot mind of food--just a very small piece or two.
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I mean no disrespect to your LFS, but could you elaborate on your process?
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I take the amount of water out of the tank that I want to change out. Mix up new water in 3 gallon increments (I haul water across the house in 3 gallon jugs is the only reason for this). Then I slowly, using a pitcher that is about half gallon, pour the new water into the tank through my skimmer (which is off--of course). This way the water enters the tank at a little slower rate, manages to rinse the pump with clean saltwater (bac pac), does not stir up a ton of sand in the water and tends to lessen the temperature shock as I do not try to heat my new water unless it is very very cold. Good thing about having your own r/o d/i unit is that you can tend to control water temp a little better. I try to shoot for an output temp that is just warm enough to take the bitter chill off of the water (I would like to think this makes it easier on the membrane as well--but don't know). In doing this, I tend to come very close to tank temp.
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How long have they been at hypo levels and how long ago was the last spot seen?

Cheers
Steve

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It has been a week or so since I have seen any spots. They have been at hypo levels for 3-4 weeks. Watching them closely and doing daily water changes.

Anne

 

[Elmo18]

I would at this point not feed the tank for a couple of days.

Feeding the tank only to let go sink down to the sand is a good way of polluting your tank

Best,
Ilham

 

[steve-s]

I use Instant Ocean and chronically run low on cal, mag, and stront

What's in your tank that needs the strontium?

On your water changes, you really should look into a cheap 50 watt heater so you can more closely match the display tank. Temp shock can be quite damaging to your inhabitants. How long does the new SW mix before you use it?

It has been a week or so since I have seen any spots. They have been at hypo levels for 3-4 weeks. Watching them closely and doing daily water changes.

You really should wait 4 weeks past the last spot seen on the fish. There is still a good chance the parasite has not been properly erradicated... 3ish weeks before you saw the last spot after beginning hypo?? How are you measuring the salinity?

Cheers
Steve

 

[Eivind]

I had a black sea cucumber for a couple of years,and it lived happily until it ended up in one of the power heads.It feeds from whatever it finds in the sand.Do not try to feed it.
I also agree with Elmo and Steve,stop feeding until you have normal water parameters,and change water,do not add any additives as everything you need is in your salt mix.
My experience is, that if you start doing a lot of testing,and add a little bit of this and a littl bit of that,without knowing exactly what you are doing,you will end up getting problems.
Make it simple,do regulary water changes,and try to get the same temperature as you have in your aquarium before you pour in the water,to avoid shocking your corals.
Running a little bit low on Calcium and Magnesium does not have to be that critical,it depends what you have in your tank.

Good luck!

Eivind

 

[Island Hopper]

I've had mine for about 4 months and he is doing quite well. The only problem I've had is twice it's ended up in the overflows. Sometimes I see it all the time, other times may not see it for a week or so. I give it no special attention and it looks as healthy as the day I added it to the tank.

 

[My2heartboys]

What's in your tank that needs the strontium?

On your water changes, you really should look into a cheap 50 watt heater so you can more closely match the display tank. Temp shock can be quite damaging to your inhabitants. How long does the new SW mix before you use it?
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Oh, about 2-3 minutes.

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You really should wait 4 weeks past the last spot seen on the fish. There is still a good chance the parasite has not been properly erradicated... 3ish weeks before you saw the last spot after beginning hypo?? How are you measuring the salinity?

Cheers
Steve

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At this point I am measuring it the only way I can. My IO hydrometer (trust it more than a deep six swing arm) I do have a refractometer on the way.

Black Cuke is doing well--considering continued elevated ammonia levels. YES, I know that I should not have any ammonia in my tank at this point. I spent until 2am Christmas morning trying to tear apart, clean, put back together, then restart my filters and I still have to take one of those back apart. Good thing I did, though, water in the fluval smelled really nasty. I am hoping that was most of the ammonia source. More worried about green bubble at this point.

Anne