Bottom drilled or Back drilled drains

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ya it would suck, but there not gonna come 2 me and give me a garentee that its not gonna brake.

I really dont know what 2 do.
i could always practice a few times on some little peace's of 1/2" thick
 
I've lost track - how big is the tank you want drilled?

Personally, I wouldn't do it if I wasn't using a drill press. I'm just not steady enough with a hand-held drill.

What are you using for a sump? Yoiu could always practice on your sump (assuming it is a smaller glass tank)
 
That's a new way to post Mike:p Well, you may have to try the durso and see how it goes. Other than that, I honestly can't think of anything else:)
 
burning2nd said:
ya it would suck, but there not gonna come 2 me and give me a garentee that its not gonna brake.

I really dont know what 2 do.
i could always practice a few times on some little peace's of 1/2" thick
Click to expand...



I've had 5 tanks drilled by 3 different glass shops and none of them were willing to guarentee that they wouldn't break it.
But when I asked about the experince and their confidence in doing the job. They all said that they were proffesional and had done it many times. Some had even shattered a few tanks. But their record of success (2-3 breaks a few hundred holes) were pretty good considering if I tried to do it, I would have a 50/50 chance of screwing it up, or worse. more like a 90/10 chance.:lol:
The last tank I took to have drilled,, was the 180 in question here. It wasn't easy getting it there and back, but it was worth it.:D
 
I've drilled so many holes I can't count them. A drill press is nice, but sometimes impractical. You can cover the area with masking tape before drilling. That will keep you bit still until its started. Once its started its just a matter of applying light pressure and slow speed until the bit has ground through. With a glass thickness of >1/4 inch, slow speed, and coolant (water) it would be difficult to crack the glass. Unless you wiggle your drill back and forth.

I don't use masking tape. I use a portable drill press gizmo I got at HD. I have ring with a suction cup bottom for holding the water, but a dam of plumbers putty works just as well.

Picture035.jpg
 
i called the guy who sells the bits,

he said he just drilled a 120, with the fish and water in the tank, from in inside.

he said you drill it fast, cause your grinding not cuting.

But im sure i can do this. ive done some wild stuff in my day, and im willing to risk it
 
he also said that thicker glass was eazyer then thinner.

light presure, water flowing over the area being drilled. high speed (acording to the seller)

doing this standing up,
i will also make a templet probly at least 1/2 thick
2 hold my bit strait

its a 150
 
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Just use a piece of 1x4 for the template and get someone to hold it in place. turn the tank on its side if your gonna drill the back and after you get the hole started get your mom or whoever(if your mom's freaking out about it) to hold the waterhose keeping a good flow. The important part is to go slow and keep the drill straight. It isnt that hard, but if your drilling thick glass it may take more than a few minutes, so if your hands get tired, stop. Go inside, get a coke relax for five minutes and go finish up. I don't see why you need a drill press, a good cordless drill has worked fine for the 6 holes ive drilled. You dont need to glue the template down, heck ive held the template in one hand and drilled with the other with the waterhose just laying on the tank. I wouldnt recommend this, im just pointing out that it isnt as horrifying or stressful as you think. I'm going to pick my new AGA 120 tomorrow and it will probably be drilled by nightfall. Maybe ill photograph the event for ya:)
 
GOOD LOOOKING homes, im gonna wait about 2 weeks to get that bit,

but ill make 2 3/4 bulk heads in both top corners,
 
well i just drilled three holes in the back of my 120 tonight. I took pictures for ya but am tired and dont wanna upload tonight. But ill do it tomorrow. It really isnt that hard. Most of the glass stores I went to wanted more than the cost of the bit to drill it, and wouldnt give me any guarantee about not distroying the tank. So I decided to do it myself. At this point ive done 7 holes, all with a cordless drill in my driveway with a water hose. no dam, just a slow stream of running water. It is a two man job, one to drill and one to hold the hose. Ill post the pictures and go step by step for ya tomorrow.
 
Looks like your a old hand at that.:)
What size tank was that?

Would you attempt that on a,, say a new 180 or a 210? That you just paid $$850 or so, and drill 3-1/8" holes for a 2" bulkhead?
 
Actually I am going to drill a 3 1/8 inch hole in the back of that tank. It is a 120 gallon AGA. The larger hole is gonna be for a 2" bulkhead that will feed a Sequence Dart to my OM 4 way. Its gonna be my first closed loop...I cant wait.
 
Just to get in one last appeal:

I have never heard from anyone that high speeds are recommended. High speeds cause excess heat that can crack the glass, shortens the life of the drill bit, and since you are grinding, does nothing to speed up the process. I have drilled lots and lots of holes. I recommend a slow steady drill speed and everything I've read suggests the same.

Mike
 
As a stained glass artist of many decades who often drills, saws, and slices glass including fragiles, I have to agree with MCary. Slow and steady cuts just as fast, and prevents any chance of heat buildup or destruction of the bit. Slow being defined as less than full. Same with drilling steel.
 
Just an update....I got my panworld 100xt and plumbed up my drains to my sump and everything is working good. the overflow is silent from 3 feet away. The return on the sump is a different story, but I have some ideas. Just having them dump under the water knocked the noise down ALOT. Im going to Boston for a week and a half, so when I get back ill start saving up a Euro-reef. Originally when i built the sump a year and a half ago i was going to use a Aqua C ev-120 so i built accordingly. So im gonna have to tear apart a few things to make it accept the new euro-reef rs-135 or 180...havent decided yet cause im going to have to work alot harder to make the 180 fit.
 
Sounds good juggernaut, have you started a thread with this? That drilling glass is good information I want to start drilling my own tanks. One question with that panworld pump, how quite is it?
 
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