Bryopsis only thread

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So this method worked for you eventually?


Which method?? The cooking? no, I tossed some rocks that i absolutely didnt love(they are still in buckets by the woodshed....lol), and the ones i did like a lot i blow torched as i said earlier. I have been bryopsis free for about 8 months.
 
A while back I went to some extreme measures to kill the bryopsis. I dipped various rocks and even some corals in kalkwasser solution for 20-45 seconds. This appears to kill the bryopsis, as about 2 days after the dip it appears white and/or transparent. However, in about 5 days it makes a strong come back. Corals are generally unharmed by 20 second kalk dips, but 45 proved fatal to kenya trees and extremely harmful (though not fatal) to candy canes. Zoanthids weren't bothered much by either duration of dip. But even at 45 seconds, it doesn't eradicate bryopsis, so I gave up on that path.
 
Raise your mg level ( try NOT to use Mg sulfate = epson salts) to approx. 1500 to 1600 and hold it thier for about 3 months.


I purchased some Tropic Marin Bio Magnesium and I'm hopeing it's not Mg sulfate. The ingedients are vauge but I know Tropic Marin is a great product so I thought I'd give it a try. I can see this will be a little spendy especially since I'll have to use large amounts to adjust my water change water(50g per week) to 1500-1600 once my tank reaches that level.

I hope this works:rolleyes: Thanks for all the input everyone:)
 
Some guy told me to just take out the rocks and set them in the sun for a few weeks......LOL that is what I do.

I think it is the KISS method.
 
I am days away from tearing apart the two tanks and placing the rock in an isolated system in the dark with heavy skimming and no food. The corals will stay in the current system on eggcrate racks with no food. The fish will also be placed in an isolated system with some dried out DIY rock and heavy skimming with a "back to normal" feeding schedule.


I have decided to carry out this plan in combination with elevated magnesium levels in all of the systems. I just can't handle feeding my fish less than what they need:( Crossing my fingers, I've got 4 months or so to make this s*#t dissapear:oops:
 
I actually don't know much about it, as I've never had it. I don't think it has a reputation for being a problem algae though. I read somewhere that it has a toxin in it that deters most herbivores from eating it, but that tangs don't mind it and eat it anyway. Do you have any tangs?

I know I am a bit off the original subject but the one kole tang I have is not interested.
 
From RC. This is awesome info, thanks Boomer:D

or look here http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167632&highlight=bryopsis


Manual removal of Bryopsis is a tedious task.
The removal itself is easy, as the thalli are small and soft enough to be scraped off. The thallus however is susceptible to severe fragmentation. The challenge is in ensuring that no viable algal material is released into the display environment.

If manual removal is to be attempted in the display, a siphon is most useful for drawing off any fragments that may eventually settle and regenerate, pointed right where the action is taking place. The drawn-off water may be discarded, though I have sometimes filtered such wastewater through calcium hydrochloride powder–which apparently destroys algal cells, and stored the filtrate in bottles for later use as calcium boosters.

If the Bryopsis-infested rock (or other material) can be removed to a separate container for a scrub-down, so much the better. Whatever saltwater was used in that container, during scrub-down, and for the final rinses, should be discarded

More herbivores can adapt to eating Bryopsis than the many horror stories around might suggest. The most reliable are perhaps some sacoglossan slugs (of Genus Elysia, for example) which unfortunately have relatively short lifespans. Other effective herbivores include certain sea urchins. While the commonly-sold herbivorous snails can infrequently take a bite out of Bryopsis, they can be messy eaters and none too thorough, just as many herbivorous fish can be. The viable algal crumbs from their feasting make the problem worse.

Even with herbivorous pressure, there is also the problem of incomplete digestion to consider: viable algal material is often found in the feces of many of these herbivores, and a biodiverse ecosystem, with herbivorous/omnivorous scavengers and recyclers of all sizes (the sort that live on eating the crap of higher herbivores....yechhh), seems the best way to deal with it.

Denying Bryopsis the resources they need (particularly nutrient) is a tricky thing to attempt. Their magnificent, plumose arrays (in the gametophyte phase) spell efficient assimilation of nutrient in the water, likely far more efficiently than anything a rival “scrubber” algae can muster. No harm in trying to introduce competition, though! Obviously, one can try to limit the nutrients imported into the system. A reef aquarium must be fed, and natural, live foods can live on in the display, rather than decomposing and releasing nutrient when left uneaten.

Physical removal can become a repetitious ordeal even with the best efforts at providing herbivorous pressure and at denying resources to the problem alga(e). This is likely because of the impressive reproductive potential that Bryopsis own. The process of obtaining relief can perhaps be speeded up by specifically targeting the avenues that Bryopsis employ to perpetuate their presence. All aforementioned modes of Bryopsis reproduction depend on using the water as a transport medium, and water is among the easiest of a reef aquarium’s components to police, given the circulation systems we use.

A properly-designed UV sterilizer may effect a significant reduction in repeat manifestations of Bryopsis, within the context of physical removal, herbivorous suppression, and resource denial. Those latter three primarily deal with the presence of Bryopsis on substrate, whilst proper application of UV (or other prophylactic filtration) helps deal with the problem’s presence in the water, obliterating many spores, gametes, microthalli and viable fragments. It is also no small benefit that proper use of UV filters also provides rapid oxidation of many dissolved nutrients in the water, reducing one fuel that powers Bryopsis blooms.
Fourfold approach, then.

Of course, patience, humble perseverance and a little prayer go a long way. So does sharing your pain with your brothers and sisters on TRT (and RC).


Summary
Bryopsis are a formidable bunch of algae to deal with, and in no small part due to their reproductive prowess. They can reproduce sexually via gametes, or asexually via spores, fragmentation or dispersal of 'microthalli'.

Bryopsis are often deemed problem algae in the hobbyist reef aquarium. While addressing the physical presence with manual removal and herbivores, and attempting to slow its growth via denial of resources are important, it is likely just as important to restrict reproduction. Prophylactic filtration of the water (for example, via UV devices) may provide the means towards a shortened effort at controlling any outbreak of Bryopsis.
 
My Kent Tech M should arrive this Thursday. I'll keep this thread posted with my results. My intent is to boost magnesium to 1500-1600 and see if the bryopsis starts dying. I hope others that are trying the magnesium boost idea will do the same. Maybe we can finally find a way to beat this horrible algae without tearing the tank down and starting over.
 
Well so far all I have been able to find is that magnesium and calcium precip go hand in hand, higher mag levels = longer time for cal. to precip if calcium threshold has been met. Im no scientist so I am unable to word it correctly for you who are lab techs ;)
I have not been able to find a source that will state the toxicity to my coral of elevated mag levels.

I will try this method on my 12G nano first before my display tank. We shall see. What do I have to loose--- a bunch of algae LOL
 
So I began stage one of my war on Bryopsis today. I took out all of the live rock and sand in my 55g, set up a rack and put all the corals back in. I didn't have enough time to scrub the edges of the corals but I will do that tommorrow. Here are some before and after shots I took today:)

Before....................
 
Wow, that's a massive undertaking. Do you not have any fish in that tank? What are you doing with the rock? I've tried scrubbing some rocks/corals with a toothbrush to get the bryopsis off. It always comes back in just a couple of days. I'm hoping the magnesium trick will kill this vile weed.
 
Acro sorry I got busy and couldn get back on. I am very wary of any product that has bio in its title, specially from TM. What this means is that they use sugars (glucose) as a carrier. It make the product absorbed easier but in the same breath your adding sugars which is the same as adding nutrients. Look to a product by Warner marine, its magnesium chloride with out the side products. I believe its called Balanced ion magnesium suppliment.
Preds are tough to use on bryopsis. As with most algaes it has adapted to handle this, bryopsis even more the most. When you begin pulling it, it will release spores (UV will eliminate them but only those that pass through it), if a snal or pred eats it they will poop out the spores. Not only that but bryopsis has adapted to that. What it does is to make the break areas its spore generator, so now every broken tip will begin to be a spore production zone. Starving for nutrients is a good plan, but honestly that is what we try to do all the time anyway. Because of the structure of bryopsis (dence fine strands) it acts like a fliter feeder, taking what ever detritious out of the water and storing it with in its structure for use.
Taking your rocks out is another plan but of coarse if you leave any spores viable on or in the rock your going to be back to it pretty quick.
For me and others chemically screwing up its system has been the easest a safest way to battle it (shoot Calfo an email he has used it several times). Raising and holding your mag at a high level will also raise your calcium as it wil screw around with alk and not allow it to bind t the calcium, so a little while of unbalanced elements. Your Coraline should bloom for a bit as it has an affinity for Mag.
Again if you feel you want to manually remove some make sure you do it with a siphon, so that you get all the spores it will be releasing. also make sure you get as much of the plant as you can as the area that you leave will become a spore producing machine.


Good luck


Mike
 
Thanks Mike

Will the dying bryopsis release nutrients back into the water and start other kinds of algae outbreaks?
Also by raising Mg will it too also take out my "good" algae in my fuge?
 
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