Calfo Manifold for 180 gallon?

[Kimo]

Anthony -

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. You can actually see the manifold from the viewing pane of the tank when it is behind the trim, it's just that having it above the trim would make my access a little more limited. I'll see if I like it, as you have said before PVC is cheap. I might have to modify my hood if I put the pvc above the trim, as it currently blocks the trim totally on the fron tof my tank.

I was basing the reduction to 1" on your tank, actually. 1.5" is so big, it would really reduce my access to the tank if I used it. I agree however that it would be the best thing to use to maximize flow, I just have maximized flow lower on my priority list than accessability. I may change my mind however.

I'm not obsessing about the flow from each nozzle, I just want to be able to plug some that I am not using and still have the option of using it at a later date.

When you say the flow is not overwhelming, do you mean that it is insufficent for the corals you are keeping? What do you have in that tank?

Thanks -

Jamie

 

[Anthony Calfo]

you can't copy my plumbing without copying the species I/another are keeping, my friend. Indeed, with lighting, water flow and feeding... you must make a very specific (and compatible) list of target species (addressing their specific needs) before you can begin to think about buying products. And... we learn other/better ways in time (beware that advice in books, online, etc gets dated quickly).

If you look at the consensus of my postings for the last year easily, they categorically recommend the larger plumbing my friend.

My tank has predatory fishes (read: large food particles and large waste) as well as moderately coarse substrate (2-3mm grains). These realities place a greater (and unique compared to most reef keepers) need in my case for higher velocity effluents (done at the expense of total flow for using undersized manifold piping at 1") to keep the bigger solids in suspension.

If instead I had a typical garden reef display with fine DSB or BB, smaller reef fishes, etc... then I would instead want greater (albeit diffused) water flow by the use of a larger manifold piping (less friction).

I'm guessing your manifold plumbing is too small, mate.

 

[Kimo]

Thanks for the advice anthony. I haven't started the manifold yet, that's why I asked what corals you were keeping prior to copying your design.

I'd like to have a rather high energy setup, as I plan on keeping acroporids and similar stonies that usually thrive in areas of higher flow. Other species I am considering include turbinaria, montipora, stylophora, and seritapora.

I would like to have some zonation in my tank, and have one side be as I have stated above, while having sand and rubble-dwelling species on the other side, such as fungia. I'd like to keep a rather open expanse on one end, with a rubble-type substrate over fine sand.

I will be keeping anthias and other smaller reef fishes, as you surmised, as well as dwarf angels (potters in particular) and fairy wrasses. I will probably only have one larger fish, a sailfin tang that I have currently in my care.

I believe that I may up the manifold to 1.5" (even as bulky as it is.) I will still reduce it to 3/4, unless you can convince me otherwise.

Now that you know my stocking plan, what do you suggest?

 

[Anthony Calfo]

if the comfort and aesthetics of a smaller (1") CLM is a strong appeal to you, you can keep it as such... and reduce the effluents if needed (no larger than 3/4" and perhaps even use 1/2" here)... and enjoy the velocity at the expense of some volume. At this point, the only disadvantage I see is that this CLM will not be able to take care of most/all the tank's flow needs. Not needing additional powerheads, pumps, streamers, etc is a big feature of employing a full-sized CLM... but in your case, you may be willing to make this compromise because the smaller manifold piping is more important to you (if so). If thats the case, I'd add Tunze Stream pump(s) to support the CLM. Those Tunzes are amazingly energy efficienct and the brand is very old and relibale.

 

[Kimo]

In your opinion, moving to 1.5" with a hammerhead pump and 3/4" effluents would suffice as the sole source of circulation in a 180 for keeping the kinds of animals I described?

I'm just clarifying, since that seems to be the negative of your above statement.

I'd like the CLM to be the main source of flow for the tank. Thanks!

Jamie

Oh, and thanks for answering on easter sunday - Happy easter to you and yours Anthony.

 

[Anthony Calfo]

the manifold size and effluent tee size is good here... but I don't think the Hammerhead has enough flow to drive a 180 gall tank alone. Modern reefs are running 30-60X water flow. And CLMS run about 1 tee per ten galls. With the quick math of say 20 tees (perhaps 2 actually being capped and moved around as needed) putting out a very modest (diffused) 400 gph each... that gives you something around 8000 gph which is just over 40X turnover. All good and in the ballpark... except that one Hammerhead alone can't deliver all the flow needed here.

So we are now at using 1) a larger pump 2)at least two hammerhads 3) using yoru one hammerhead and a smaller CLM and supporting it with two Tunze 6060 stream pumps

Any of those above options can work for you hear and each has its merits and drawbacks (one pump... heat/noise/cost - two pumps... also heat/cost issues - tunze support very efficient but aesthetically detractive)

Happy Easter to you too my friend You are very welcome.

kindly, Anth-

 

[Kimo]

Update -

I have purchased everything for the CLMS. I' am going with:

- 1.5" around the top of the tank, above the trim. It's too bulky to be below the trim
- 3/4" outlets. I am experimenting with different configurations. Currently, I am going with a sch 80 nipple cut in half with a 45 deg fitting that is just below the surface. The 45 is not glued so that I can move it as needed.
- 12-16 outlets. I have a 1' glass brace in the middle of the tank, so that limits the number of outlets that I can use.

Does anyone have any suggestions on:

Measuring and gluing the pipe: I am experienced with PVC, but it is really tricky to get everything perfectly measured and cut. Any tips or tricks that you may have would be appreciated

Angle of outlets: I am concerned that the outlets will obscure the tank from a significant amount of light. Using the nipples and 45s will help, since they will be shorter, but I am considering plaing the outlets nearly straight down to reduce the amount of shading

Outlet placement: It seems that some of the outlets are way too close to each other. I have a standard 180, and with two outlets in front od the overflow box on the end it seems like I will need to move my outlets for the front of the tank way over to make it work. Any insight, PICTURES, information about this is appreciated.

Thanks a lot for the support! I'll try to get some progress pics soon. This is going really slow due to time constraints, but it will be worth it!

Jamie

 

[rudeanduncouth]

I don't have any shading problems with mine. As far as outlets go, I would do as you see fit. They should be completely adjustable after you are do so as long as you have enough that is all that matters.

One of the biggest issues I think I had was when I was putting my together. I had to put it together in parts because it was impossible to make it a solid piece and keep it under the frame. The last piece I put together I had to angle just perfect while the glue was drying to get them to fit. I smashed my finger pretty good in doing this. You shouldn't have this problem since you are putting on top of the frame. I will do that when I redo mine.