I ran my tank with a cascade 1000 canister for 2 years. It worked great and was way easier to clean than my sump set up. My only complaint is that it has start up issues. I have to shake it and tilt it while I plug it in or it won't start up
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I guess it really doesn't matter but I should say this will be for my 26g SW. I really need something that's going to catch the bigger particles. Crap just keeps building up in my HOB fuge and it's a PITA to keep clean. Much more so then a canister filter would be.
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I had a Fluval 305 on my 36 gallon. It did a good job, easy to clean, started right up without priming. It came with filter pads, charcoal in bags and ceramic rings.
I hope you dont mind if i tag along for this thread. I am very curious which is best as well.
Hi Nana, I will add my two cents FWIW. Yes it does matter this is for a SW system. Before I start, keep in mind people have kept SW, whether FoWLR, FO, or full reef with every possible combination of equipment and had varying degrees of success. My personal belief is that the equipment one chooses is not as important as the commitment to long term maintenance, and ease of maintenance means we are more likely to keep at it over the years. With that said...
Conventional wisdom suggest that canisters should not be used on SW tanks, specifically not reef ones. They are known to cause nitrate issues, people use the term "nitrate factories" and while I cant explain the science behind this (Boomer could), enough people agree on this that it seems legit. It sounds that you are trying to achieve mechanical rather than biological filtration to remove the large particles of detritus. There are several ways to do this, a canister being one, or you can add a sump with a filter sock to remove those pesky large particles. I made a drain tower for my sump with a drawer that uses filter floss and is easily replaced every 2 days. The important thing is that the media used to strain the water must be changed FREQUENTLY or it becomes the dreaded "nitrate factory". Lets be honest, how many people want to crack open a canister and replace the media every 2-4 days? It just isn't likely to happen over the long term and then nitrates will rise. Now a funny thing, a large local aquarium store in Tacoma actually sells packages that include a Cascade Canister as part of a SW start up system. They are more interested in selling aquariums to Army wives than helping people keep healthy livestock.
Back to task.... If for whatever reason a sump is not an option for you, I would think that a HOB power filter with those little pads would work better for your application than a canister, for one reason. It is open and accessible, and you can change the nitrate producing pad quickly and easily.
I am hoping one of the brighter RFers will chime in with a better, more scientific explanation as to why canisters are such a bad idea on SW, but thats my two cents.
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