Rico
Well-known member
I have a 1/3 hp Custom Sea Life chiller on my 155 gal bowfront running 1600 watts of light in a enclosed ventilated canopy. This unit has been working great for over 3 years now, keeping the temp very stable. It is a bit noisy for a living area and does put out a substantial amount of heat that is removed from the tank. Because of this I have it located in the crawl space under my house just below the tank. I was fortunate to not have to drill holes in my floor because a heater vent was located nearby.
The chiller is supplied with a single stage digital controller that will only control either a heater or a chiller. I replaced that with a dual stage controller for both heating and cooling. Then I put the old controller away for a few years, even tried to give it to some club members and had no takers. Recently I was very glad I still have it because about 3 weeks ago my tank hit 87 degrees due to a problem with the chiller supply pump. After fixing the pump, I wanted to prevent this from happening again and knowing that my MH's were the main source of heat input to the tank, I pulled the old single stage controller out. Hooked it up and ran the MH ballast supply power through the controller. It is setup so that if my tank were to reach 85 degrees the controller will kill the power to the MH's and keep them off until the tank temp drops to 79 degrees. I was looking for another way to prevent disaster!
Just thought I would share this for those of you who may have an old single stage controller hanging around.
Rick
The chiller is supplied with a single stage digital controller that will only control either a heater or a chiller. I replaced that with a dual stage controller for both heating and cooling. Then I put the old controller away for a few years, even tried to give it to some club members and had no takers. Recently I was very glad I still have it because about 3 weeks ago my tank hit 87 degrees due to a problem with the chiller supply pump. After fixing the pump, I wanted to prevent this from happening again and knowing that my MH's were the main source of heat input to the tank, I pulled the old single stage controller out. Hooked it up and ran the MH ballast supply power through the controller. It is setup so that if my tank were to reach 85 degrees the controller will kill the power to the MH's and keep them off until the tank temp drops to 79 degrees. I was looking for another way to prevent disaster!
Just thought I would share this for those of you who may have an old single stage controller hanging around.
Rick