Choosing a chiller

[jezzeaepi]

So I am planning the "big upgrade" atm, and one part that has me a bit at odds is the chilling component.

It is my understanding that they work by dropping your temp down 2 degress, then cycling off, letting the tank warm up 2 degrees, then cycling back on.

Isn't this very stressfull on the inhabitants? What if it cycles on 20 to 30 times a day? Presently my tank is pegged between 77.0 and 77.3 all day long 360 days a year(those 5 hot ones not included=P). Fluctuating from 77 to 79 20 times a day seems like a big step away from where I am in terms of temp stability. Will my corals/inverts/fish notice?

Choosing a chiller thats "more" then you need will cause it to cycle more often then it should and cause pre-mature failure. It will also cool your tank down much quicker then a less powerfull unit, which may also be harmfull.

Choosing one thats not strong enough to chill your tank will cause it to run constantly which will eventually burn it out.

Finding one that wont chill too fast, but also wont burn out seems like a problem with a whole lot of variables. Should I just accept the "standard" and get a 1/4 hp chiller and be done with it? It will be a 125G with a ~40G sump running 750-800W of MH.

Thanks,
Jesse

 

[Meche]

Choosing a chiller thats "more" then you need will cause it to cycle more often then it should and cause pre-mature failure.

Not true. Your tank will warm up the same with any chiller or no chiller.

 

[Meche]

I think if you get a controller you can regulate your temperature much better. You could turn your chiller (always) on and your heater (always) on, and let your controller provide them power when it deems necessary.

 

[Krish]

Hey Jesse! A 2 degree swing is nothing man...Out in the wild when the tide changes and tidepools form leaving behind corals and fish without any incoming water for hours, the water warms up a lot more than 2 degrees in the baking sun before tide comes back up to replenish the water and basically shoot the temp right down again. IMO, they wouldn't make chillers with an allowance for a 2 degree swing (some of which you can't change to a lower setting) if it would cause any harm to marine life. Infact, some will allow you to set them for an even greater swing. So I wouldn't worry so much

As for sizing up the chiller, I couldn't say which option you mentioned in your post would be best :doubt: I had a pacific coast chiller on my 75gal with dual 250w MH's that ran a lot less than when I put it on a smaller tank (38gals) with only a single 250w MH due to the pumps producing so much heat. That same chiller which was more than adequet for my 75gal, ran pretty much non stop on the 38gal taking maybe 3 minute breaks before starting up again. I guess the others will chime in as well, but thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. Good luck!

 

[DonW]

Not true. Your tank will warm up the same with any chiller or no chiller.

Too big will cause short cycling. To small will run constantly.

Don

 

[Meche]

Too big will cause short cycling.

A short (er) on cycle. But the off cycle will remain constant.

No?

 

[Scooterman]

It will cycle on an off eating up valuable electricity, also more unnecessary wear on the compressor!

 

[DonW]

A short (er) on cycle. But the off cycle will remain constant.

No?

All will depend on how it is controlled. Probe placement has alot to do with on/off times. But even if you end up with a chiller that is shortcycling it can be easily fixed with a cycle limiter or by changing feed pumps. The cycle limiter is much easier and cheaper. I use one all winter.

Don

 

[Meche]

All will depend on how it is controlled. Probe placement has alot to do with on/off times. But even if you end up with a chiller that is shortcycling it can be easily fixed with a cycle limiter or by changing feed pumps. The cycle limiter is much easier and cheaper. I use one all winter.

Ok, that makes sense now.

Sorry to *** your thread Jesse.

 

[jezzeaepi]

Not a problem meche thanks for your input and quick response =)

"The cycle limiter is much easier and cheaper"
As usual Don you have some gadget that takes care of ecerything and I have no idea what it is lol. What is a cycle limiter, what exactly does it do, and where might I purchase one?

And do you all agree with the 1/4 HP being the right range for the tank size I am planning for? I have had the PCI chiller recomended to me by several sources but have read that DonW does not like the fans inside them. Other then that, is there anything I should know about that model in paricular?

Peace

 

[DonW]

A chiller like the cl650 has a internal temp probe, I hate mine but I got a good deal so I live with it.
Cycle limiter just adds time to the off cycle. Send me a pm for source.(commercial policies).

Don

 

[Scooterman]

It will be a 125G with a ~40G sump running 750-800W of MH.

Thanks,
Jesse

Why so much MH light on a 125?
With most 4ft tanks two 250's is more than enough to keep anything.

 

[jezzeaepi]

"With most 4ft tanks two 250's is more than enough to keep anything."

The problem is I want to go 5 feet long by 2 feet wide by 20 inches tall. The only way I see lighting that for SPS at all lvls of the tank is to do 3 250's or 2 400's that are raised up a bit, but most likely Id do the 3 250's. Its not set in stone though by any means, which is why Im devoting the next 5 months to planning this out. This months goal is deciding on my heating/cooling needs =) Lighting is still a month or two off.

 

[Scooterman]

Ahh, on a 5ft tank I'd still do two 250's with luminarc III's If you can fit them, & let 3" on each side go, it shouldn't show up much anyways, also you could supplement with some vho's maybe, don't think they make a 5ft T5? You can still keep anything with just two 250's, just maybe not on th eouter edges.

 

[jezzeaepi]

"A chiller like the cl650 has a internal temp probe, I hate mine but I got a good deal so I live with it."

So can I run it off of a Ranco controler though and ignore its internal probe?

I think im just going to have a Ranco control both my heating and chilling, and leave the ac JR as the backup to shut off the Ranco if it sees that the temp goes out of line. I want to set something up like DonW's automated system, but I think that will be a future project once I have the tank up and running.

 

[DonW]

"A chiller like the cl650 has a internal temp probe, I hate mine but I got a good deal so I live with it."

So can I run it off of a Ranco controler though and ignore its internal probe?

I think im just going to have a Ranco control both my heating and chilling, and leave the ac JR as the backup to shut off the Ranco if it sees that the temp goes out of line. I want to set something up like DonW's automated system, but I think that will be a future project once I have the tank up and running.

You can but you have to bypass the internal dual stage controller.

Don

 

[jezzeaepi]

"You can but you have to bypass the internal dual stage controller."

Bah... Looking at the instruction manual for the chiller I was unable to find a way to do that, so I assume you mean doing something that would void the warranty?

Whats the problem with the internal temp probe, does it just not work well? Gets dirty? Does it read quite a bit differently then one would if it were in your tank?

 

[DonW]

"You can but you have to bypass the internal dual stage controller."

Bah... Looking at the instruction manual for the chiller I was unable to find a way to do that, so I assume you mean doing something that would void the warranty?

Whats the problem with the internal temp probe, does it just not work well? Gets dirty? Does it read quite a bit differently then one would if it were in your tank?

Think about it this way. If your probe was in the tank or over flow it would be a more accurate representaion of tank temp. We dont care what the sump temp is. Now you can use temp differential in the chillers control but its only semi accurate and subject to change with lighting and ambient temp.
The long and short of it this poor probe placement causes short cycling. But again thats fixable with a limiter.
I just hate mine because its a noisy lemon.

Don

 

[jezzeaepi]

Do you have any opinion on drop in chillers? Specifically the aqualogic cyclone. They are a bit more expensive but I like there effeciency in both using less power, and not requiring a feed pump. The only problem I see is that the farthest you can locate it away from the tank is right next to the stand basically.

 

[DonW]

Do you have any opinion on drop in chillers? Specifically the aqualogic cyclone. They are a bit more expensive but I like there effeciency in both using less power, and not requiring a feed pump. The only problem I see is that the farthest you can locate it away from the tank is right next to the stand basically.

No experience with those. PM matts125, he's using a drop in.

Don