Krish
RF STAFF
I think this thread has almost reached it's end. With just over 2% brain capcity left, Seth will soon leave the building. You won't be missed :spit:
Come pick my brain...I know there are more beginners out there.
- Thread starter akunochi
- Start date
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Peppie
Well-known member
Seriously, I do have a question for you Seth,
I dont run a sump. I do run an ATO. It is a 20gal tank sitting in the stand. I run the floatswitch to the pump in the 20gal freshwater holding tank. It is pluged into a Timer that comes on for 1 min. 6 times a day.
How would I hook up a Kalk reactor to this unit? Or should I mix my kalk before I add the ro/di water to the holding tank?
Thanks man, You are doing a good job.
I dont run a sump. I do run an ATO. It is a 20gal tank sitting in the stand. I run the floatswitch to the pump in the 20gal freshwater holding tank. It is pluged into a Timer that comes on for 1 min. 6 times a day.
How would I hook up a Kalk reactor to this unit? Or should I mix my kalk before I add the ro/di water to the holding tank?
Thanks man, You are doing a good job.
crystalemmaanaava
Member
we are moving a 100 gallon tank this weekend and are very much hoping to find a cheaper place to rent/buy buckets/water containers other than home depot? any suggestions would be great!
Peppie
Well-known member
Google.. Used food grade barrels
You may also find them on CL.
Make sure they are food grade
You may also find them on CL.
Make sure they are food grade
Between Canyon road and portland Ave there is a home that sells 55G food grade barrels for 20$. You'll need to rinse them out, but they are great for storing water.
A sand bed in a refugium should be a deep sand bed if it is going to be used. It should also consist of several different grain sizes of sand. This will allow the maximum diversity of life in there. The sand will also act as a PH buffer if the light is ran on a reverse cycle from the display tank.
Peppie
Well-known member
I would like some more info on the sand bed for my fuge also.
How deep is deep?
You stated different sizes. How much of each and in what order?
Does this bed need to be cleaned on a regular basis? If so how often and how deep?
How deep is deep?
You stated different sizes. How much of each and in what order?
Does this bed need to be cleaned on a regular basis? If so how often and how deep?
For example my last fuge was appx. 20Gallons. The sand bed was about 8" deep. I never cleaned it either. As far as teh granule size I mix them together vs doing a layered approach. I then add in my LR rubble throughout the top 3" of sand and finally place my actual LR pieces on top.
wsboyette
Fisherman
I am setting up in a rather thin (front-to-back) 45 high, and plan at present to use powerheads in the lower rear corners to create some flow thru the lower half of the live rock structure - which I plan to aquascape in sort of a "V" arrangement, with little or no rock in the center. When using powerheads in this manner, specifically where should their output nozzles be aimed for best circulation thru the reef ?
wsboyette
Fisherman
More like a harbor, may be no live rock in the center. Wish I could sketch it for you. Just saw some Coralife power heads that seem to have a much larger output nozzle than the old-school ones, will probably use them.
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wsboyette
Fisherman
"Aquarium Safe" Adhesives
A local aquarium shop operator told me of a concern he has that some adhesives, epoxies, etc. that are touted as "aquarium safe" are not safe. Is there any validity to his concern; how about the stick epoxies sold by online reef shops ? What experience have you had with these adhesives ?
Thanks,
Wade
A local aquarium shop operator told me of a concern he has that some adhesives, epoxies, etc. that are touted as "aquarium safe" are not safe. Is there any validity to his concern; how about the stick epoxies sold by online reef shops ? What experience have you had with these adhesives ?
Thanks,
Wade
My setup is the same just go look at my build thread. With an atoll setup it will be difficult fo you to prevent dead spots without some sort of flo pushing from the front into the atoll area. If you are determined to use just 2 powerhead I would place them at the back near the corners pointed at teh front of the side panes. this will cause the flow to bounce off the glass around the front, clash in the middle of the pane and hopefully be directed into the atoll. The problem is you will only be generating flow on the bottom half of your tank. I would go with 4 powerheads minimum.
I have used the two part stick epoxy (where you roll it to mix the internal and external colors) with no issues at all. For adhesive on rocks I always do it while they are dry and use great stuff the foam or pond stuff. For acrylic I use weldon and for glass I used Momentive 103. i have used momentive to build my 200 gallon cube, weldon to build my sump and great stuff to bond my rocks together without any adverse actions at all.
wsboyette
Fisherman
Thanks so much for clarifying those things to me. Now one more thing (as Colombo use to say): How long can the live rock stand being out of water ? How much time will I have to aquascape and fill the tank. Filling will take a while as my RO does only 50 GPD and my mixing barrel is only 15 gallons.....
cadillactattoo
Well-known member
You will have some die off immediately because some bacteria is anaerobic. It won't really matter though because you will have to cycle the tank anyway. Just leave your skimmer running during cycle to remove the dead organics.
-akunochi via the tattoo shop
-akunochi via the tattoo shop
wsboyette
Fisherman
Thanks, I had gathered that I must run the skimmer with no lights during the cycle.....
