Coral Beauty losing "beauty"

[BJTenn]

My coral beauty looks a little ragged! I think the clown tang has just been doggin her but she has her blue scraped off from over the tops of her eyes. Its not white like ich, it just looks like the blue has been scraped off and yellow is showing. I'm not sure, but I think her eyes may be buldging. Otherwise she looks and acts fine.

If I knew how to insert a picture on this forum, I would. Any hints. I have digital camera.

Can I cut the end off of a chili coral that looks to be about the split anyway, using a sharp razor blade and if so, do I have to seal it with glue or strap to rock?

Thanks,
BJTenn (Tennessee, USA)

75 Gal mostly reef, I WAS proud of til I came online and saw "some comparisons"! (mine is quite sparse to what I've seen online!). Newby - 18 mos or so.

 

[Fishead77]

If I knew how to insert a picture on this forum, I would. Any hints. I have digital camera.

Thanks,
BJTenn (Tennessee, USA)

.

Sorry to hear about your Beauty not so beautiful. Here is a link for resizing your images. You'll have to download the software (free) and then resize your picts to post here. Good luck (I hope your beauty gets better, tell the tang to quit picking on it! ) http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

 

[BJTenn]

Thank you sooooo much, I really appreciate it!

I think the coral beauty is fine and when I point my finger at the tang, he runs...

 

[Fishead77]

I think the coral beauty is fine and when I point my finger at the tang, he runs...

LOL!!! He better run.

 

[steve-s]

Post a pic if you can. This species has several different color morphs depending on collection region. There is also a good possibility of a problem if harassed by another fish. Best to be sure either way...

http://species.fishindex.com/species_1317centropyge_bispinosus_coral_beauty_angel.html

Cheers
Steve

 

[BJTenn]

I think I put a picture in my photo gallery, but it could be in Tenbucktou! Its the best I could do on the Coral Beauty. Winch won't hold still!

Thanks

 

[sryder]

I know mine likes to run through the rocks. sometimes it will get a small scrape. keep your eye on it. How long have you had it tank and fish and how are water params.

 

[steve-s]

Agreed with sryder, these fish do tend to get banged up easily enough. The other concern is MHLLE which will usually start out in the facial area. I am by no means suggesting this is the case here, the photo is far to unclear to make that determination.

Along with sryder questions above, what do you normally feed the fish, what other fish are in the tank besides the tang and can you post some info about the tank itself?

Seems that one area was focused on and we forgot about this...

Can I cut the end off of a chili coral that looks to be about the split anyway, using a sharp razor blade and if so, do I have to seal it with glue or strap to rock?

With most soft corals the answer would usually be yes but with this one I would not be in a hurry. This coral usually does not last long or fair well with hobbyists due to it's dietary requirements and need for directed target feeding/high water flow. If yours is doing well great, but I would not push your luck. If the coral (Alcyonium Palmatus?) is casting off daughter/clones of itself, wait until it has done so naturally then place the wee'un where you wish that offers the exact same conditions as the parent.

Cheers
Steve

 

[BJTenn]

Great, thanks for the info.

I really don't want to divulge my tank parameters. They are bad right now. I know that PH is good, I know calcium is high approx 800 or so. Nitrates are too high 80 or nitrites, whichever. Getting the picture?? Am trying to do 25% water change 1/month. I'm really confused what to add now that the calcium is out of whack. I just ordered a iodide or iodine testing kit cause I just bought some, but I'm afraid to do anything. The Chili and a leather are not looking so good and my gorgonians have hardly ever bloomed.

Weekly: Doseage called for on bottles:

Seachem Reef Complete
Seachem Trace (the one you refrigerate)
Seachem - the third in the usual trio - I can't remember name and my friend has bottle.

I thought I would add Iodide monthly. But I read where that could really be a crasher too.

What is a newby to do???

I updated my profile I think. I thought I already did, must have not hit "save".

Feed frozen mysid everyother day - usually
will throw in some seaweed daily for tangs
have some other green spirulina enriched Brine - weekly
and 2-3 times a week (at the suggestion of someone on RF) Bio-Plankton, try to target chili, gorgonians and anything else waving when I have extra.

I hope you said you wanted the book!

Am I hopeless cause?

 

[jsmkmavity]

experience has taught me that additives are seldom required or sometimes even harmful if you use high quality salt and regular 10% plus water changes at least every 2 weeks. you shouldnt add ANY type of elements that you dont have the test kit for, and you should have every test kit you can buy. most have good success with inland ocean or oceanic salt. oceanic is high in calcium so if you have a lot of corals and no reactor this can help. i mix the 2 half and half because where one is weak the other seems to balance it very well. these mixes have normal and trace elements in approximately the correct amounts when mixed at normal salinity so unless you have something in the tank using high amounts of something there is no need to dose. the key here is to test first then add only what is needed. your pocketbook and livestock both will show higher growth. for nitrates dont keep filter media in place for more than 2 or 3 days-including bio-balls if you have any, without changing or cleaning. blow off the rocks and siphon the sand and do a water change while everything is still floating around. 25% is a lot to change at one time under normal conditions as it can stress livestock if parameters change too much, but untill you get nitrates down a normal 10% wont doo much toward that end. possibly increase skimming and decrease feeding. use fresh or frozen food rather than flakes. its a lot i know but once you get things balanced it wont take so much work and will be more enjoyable-especially when you find that you dont have to add a bunch of stuff all the time! hope this helps and HAVE FUN!
jason

 

[BJTenn]

Thanks for the info...I'll slow down and breath now.

Later

 

[sryder]

25% is not alot imo at this point. the calcium being at 800 is more of a concern than that. I would try at least 25% water change at least once a week untill my params were back closer to normal. I would as suggested by jsm to stop adding things such as supplements to your tank unless you are missing something and are testing for it. Im positive that your coral beaty is under alot of stress at this point. unless you get your params back in order you will continue to have stress related problems with your fish.
your corals will be more ceseptible (sp) to higher nitrates such as 80. the weekly water changes will bring this down but you will also have to try and find the source. alot of time it is good husbandry and just cleaning your rocks siphoning up detritus and aggressive skimming. as was suggested before do the water changes after you have stirred up some of the stuff on the rocks and bottom. if you have a sump add a sock to your outlets of the tank and leave them on for a couple of hours after stirring things up.
I would also check my alk. calcium has an effect on this as well. someone here maybe boomer can explain that direct coralation. take it slow and make it fun for yourself. get into a routine and enjoy.

 

[BJTenn]

What is MHLLE?

Oops, I guess I don't have this thing down..........

 

[steve-s]

Oops, I guess I don't have this thing down..........

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/sp/index.php

Good advice above. Get your water quality in order and the rest should take care of itself. In the short term at least, I would nix all the additives your using and just rely on water changes. I seriously doubt you need them at all. Increase the volume/frequency to at least weekly and 25%. Make sure you mix up the new SW a day ahead and don't be afraid to blow on the rockwork with a powerhead as well to release trapped detritus.

Cheers
Steve

 

[BJTenn]

Mhlle

Thanks, good article.

I don't think that's it though, it hasn't changed or grown in probably the last two weeks.

Hope its not fatal...

 

[steve-s]

Not changing does not indicate wether it will be MHLLE or not. If the cause of the problem is eliminated and kept in check, in this case water quality, it should abate and reverse to some degree. Slim possibility this is bacterial if it's been like this for the last two weeks unchanged. Lymphocystis is a possibility however.

Cheers
Steve

 

[jsmkmavity]

one thing i missed is what your specific gravity is!? easy to forget but VERY important!

 

[BJTenn]

I was wondering when that would come up...I was trying to keep at 1.022 or 3 and then after reading almost everybody keeps a little higher, I just (slowly) increased to 1.026. That is if my floating thermometer/hygrometer is correct???

That I do check daily! Got one thing right huh....

Hey, I think I actually got pics up on my photo page or whatever. The tank and new pics of coral beauty. In the photos with flash, the coral beauty looks pretty bad, I'm not sure that's fair representation. See what you think.

 

[jsmkmavity]

take your hygrometer to a lfs who has a refractometer and knows how to use it and check the calibration of your unit. these plastic ones are very inexpensive so it should come as no suprise that they are often not very accurate. this is not a probleb if youmark it where it should read by testing with a properly calibrated refractometer. once you do that use it regularly like you do now only ignore the factory markings and use the real s.g. mark you put on it from above test. IMO 1.024-1.025 is good for most animals you might want to put in your tank. dont rush over and change your tank again right now just monitor things closely and correct slowly when you find out what your true salinity is. if you see things not looking good before you get the calibration done you can lower it down to 1.024 slowly by dripping water from a clean jug or bag with a few needle sized holes. i have a 1 gal water jug with a 4gph drip emitter from a lawn sprinkler supplier(hardware store)stuck in the side about an inch from the bottom and this works great for top-off or slowly dripping whatever you need into the tank(great for acclimating sensitive new livestock). never add salt directly to your tank to raise s.g.-always mix at least a day in advance. you probably already know this but im trying to cover all the bases. if your using tap water also age that for a day with an airstone or power head before adding to your tank. keep us posted and dont be afraid to ask more questions. most people here care about you and your tank and will give good advise to the best of their ability. cant say that about some lfs'. money directs some peoples choices too much. the key here is to learn quickly as much as you can from many reliable sources and use what you can and what suits your tank. make any changes slowly except in an emergency-but first make sure its really an emergency. THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!

 

[BJTenn]

Hey thanks. Yes I know not to add salt directly and yes I have started letting my tap water for changes sit for at least 24, however, I did not know to add air or circulate.

And good idea on the hygrometer, but its glass, not plastic, i don't know if that helps or not.

Thanks,
Will keep trudging along.......