Coral Quarantine

[NaH2O]

Anthony, could you explain a proper quarantine set-up for incoming corals? Obviously, it depends on budget, so I understand that it could be very elaborate. Does a QT have to have MH if QTing SPS? How long should one QT corals? How about dipping - good idea, bad idea, too stressful?

Thanks

 

[dgasmd]

Not only that, but add what to dip with? what to preventively treat with? how long to hold a coral in quarintine? UV? Ozone to kill water born things?

 

[FishyinKy]

I'm anxious to hear his answer on this as well. I have a quarantine tank set up with power compacts but when the coral needs metal halides what do you do? Also, I do dip my corals with seachems reef dip.

 

[NaH2O]

Not all dips seem to work with the red acro bugs, so that is another part of my question. Along with other dips, should a preventative dip with Interceptor® be a part of the routine? My thoughts are MH lighting may not be a *must have* if QT for a short time period. I suppose egg crate could be placed high in the tank to get as much light as possible.

 

[Anthony Calfo]

I'm catching a plane for Germany in hours, my friend A great question though... will chime in on return (back home late Dec 12th)

But the short story on corals in QT re: light... indeed, no MH needed even for high light corals. Two main reason for it:

the intensity of light in a small QT tank with pcs for a coral mounted on a shallow rack/shelf at say 6" under surface of the water (the shelf/egg grate is for screening for larger worms/crabs, shrimp, etc lured to bare bottom of QT with bait).. is such that you can get comparable levels to the same coral being ultimately kept at 16 or 20" under MA in the big display tank. The exact measurement is possible with (yet another good reason to buy...) a light meter.

But even when you cannot get the same bright light... its still a moot point. A lack of light can be compensated for with/by feeding. Particulates for the organismal feeders... ammonia/nitrate/nitrogen (ammonium chloride solution for sodium nitrate solution and dosed/metered) for the absorbtion feeders.

And QT is only 4 weeks... a small daily deficiency is not going to kill this coral in that time. MOst corals take many months to starve to death if underfed/underlit in display tanks. The QT is serving so many other/greater goods... and the compromise here is no more stressful than numerous other possible stresses (rough import, poor acclimation technique, etc).

Most corals are quite tough... no worries. QT always and without exception for all things wet.

Anthony... really out the door this time! See y'all in a couple weeks

 

[dgasmd]

So, let me ask even further. So what do you do during quarintine? Just stare at coral in isolation? What is the benefit of this isolation? How did we come up with 4 weeks and not 6 or 3? What do you use as a gauge to say you quarintine long enough? How can you tell it is not long enough? On things like snails, LR, and invertebrates like starfish etc, how do you quarintine those? What do look for in them? Just been inquisitive LOL.......

 

[Anthony Calfo]

4 weeks of "disease free" (!) symptoms is the minimum(8 weeks is best and safest and used by many professionals).

Why 4 weeks: 4 weeks is the maximum time that (most) anything pathogenic can go without being expressed (showing symptoms). Many nasties will die without a host within that time as with corals carrying in diseases on other organisms (like parasites on fish) on their surfaces and in their water (as with the employee that just took his hand out of the infected fish tank minutes prior to your arrival and request to bag your coral at the LFS )

What else is QT for: screen for Montipora eating nudibranchs, predatory crabs/shrimp, worms... siphon out predatory flatworms, etc.

More reasons? The high light coral you just bought was collected over 10 days ago and transported through the chain of custody in near darkness since then (shipping bags, boxes and modest wholesaler holding systems). If you put this coral right in the display under bright lights, the animal will stress if not bleach in many cases.

There are MANY more reasons for QT, but just a few of these should be enough.

When someone says they got a rock or coral from another LFS or aquarist and it "infected" their tank with Aiptasia, etc... I remind them thats not true... they infected their won tank without a simple and conscientious use of a QT tank.

Please! QT always and without exception for all things wet (snails, LR, LS, cotrals, fishes, algae/plants, etc.)

 

[Mauisreef]

Hey Anthony you on line at da airport?
I thought you stay going to Germany?
Have another safe one Brah.

Maui

 

[NaH2O]

Anthony - thanks for addressing a few points before you head out. Hopefully, you will be able to answer more of the questions upon your return, and the alcohol is finally out of your system

Just wanted to also clarify - 4 weeks QT since last introduction, as well? No matter what type of coral is introduced?

Would curing live rock in tubs for 6-8 weeks be QT enough for it (the LR)?

 

[Angelscrx]

Wow what a great discussion. Things I never even thought about. I have a small tank that I am going to set up as a Hospital/QT but now just need the light. My question is what kind of filtration should I use? Do I need to have a skimmer on it too or is a regular filter enough? By the way it's a 5 gallon tank. Thanks

 

[Steven Pro]

I wrote an article on quarantine here,
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.htm
I discuss the benefits and proper methods of quarantining fish, corals, liverock, etc.

 

[dgasmd]

Thanks for the link. I'll go read it although I believe I already had. Reminding myself is never a bad thing.

 

[NaH2O]

Good article, Steven, thanks for posting that.

 

[ScottT1980]

Has anyone tried a lufenuron dip (program, sentinel) vs. a milbemycine oxime (interceptor) dip? While lufenuron wouldn't be a good idea for system treatment (chitin inhibitor, bad news for all you arthropods), I would think it might be more cost effective than interceptor. Of course, it could be an either/or scenario...

Take er easy
Scott T.

 

[FishyinKy]

How on earth did I miss that? Great article and thanks for posting it. ScottT I wondered about doing a dip with one of those as well but I wonder if perhaps they aren't too harsh.

 

[ScottT1980]

I talked some guys at the vet school here in Raleigh and they felt like the milbemycine oxime treatment was "more harsh" than a lufeneron treatment (mind you, these aren't individuals with that much reef experience, this was just based on the drugs). I think it would have to be delivered through program, because sentinel has both drugs. Of course, one could also go old school and use ivermectin, but I can't imagine that dissolving into solution...

 

[gobie]

Too Many Times Over The Years Of Selling Marine To The Public I Have Seen Many Times People Hardley Qt Their Purchases I My Self Have Even Been Guilty Of This A Time Or Two/ Dozen. Most Times I Have Been Ok. Yess There Is Usually Noticable Stress On Animals.
I Hate To Dip Animals Unwarrented This Is Just Like Taking Cold Medicine To Keep From Getting A Cold. I Think There Is Expierence To People On This And Other Discussion Boards That We Should Push For Every Body To Keep Some Sort Of Qt At Hand, The Very Least 5 Gal Bucket, Air Driven Skimmer, A Duetto Or Some Small Filter,egg Crate, And Some Sort Of Diy P.c. Smart Light And Heater. I Have Priced This Simple Throw Together Holding System Qt Tank For Less Than 100 Bucks.this Works, Its Not Pretty But It Works