Crocea Clam DANGERS

[scytale]

Like Sue said clams need stability. They really are a simple animal to keep, probably as easy as fish once you gain the knowlege and learn how to keep a tank stable. T. Crocea for some reason seems to be everyones first clam. IMO it should be their last. I'd learn how to keep a T. Derasa first. They do grow quickly but are very hardy. If he outgrows your tank they are very easy to sell or give up for adoption.

Don

Don-- I know you've often advised us newbies to pull off our pH monitors and not be too concerned about daily pH swings....
Are your beautiful clams exposed to AM/PM pH swings (or do you have some form of pH-stablizing gear--kalk, fuge with reverse photo, etc.--on your tank)??

And as a future-clam-keeper, I think T. Croceas get picked first because they're "the prettiest" (have the most vibrant color/patterns) and sometime us newbies don't know any better.....:doubt:

 

[marinegeek101]

Croceas are prettier and look alot better then deresa.

 

[marinegeek101]

My LFS says that my lighting wouldnt be a problem. Because he uses the same lighting as I do.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

My LFS says that my lighting wouldnt be a problem. Because he uses the same lighting as I do.

Free advisetypically worth what you pay for it)
1. Do not ever accept the word of a salesman as fact.
2. If it sounds too good to be true, it usually isn't
3. If anybody could do it, more would.
4. A clam's heath is more than mantle deep
5. Clams don't complain, they just slowly fade away.
6. Eveyone loves baby clams, few should have them.
7. If the clam isn't broken, don't fix it. (I have no idea what that means, Don says it a lot)

 

[DonW]

Croceas are prettier and look alot better then deresa.

Not if its dead. I would also question your lighting especially if any of the bulbs are other than 10k.

Don

 

[marinegeek101]

I have 2 10K and 2 Actinic. Is it better to have them all 10K?

 

[DonW]

Don-- I know you've often advised us newbies to pull off our pH monitors and not be too concerned about daily pH swings....
Are your beautiful clams exposed to AM/PM pH swings (or do you have some form of pH-stablizing gear--kalk, fuge with reverse photo, etc.--on your tank)??

And as a future-clam-keeper, I think T. Croceas get picked first because they're "the prettiest" (have the most vibrant color/patterns) and sometime us newbies don't know any better.....:doubt:

My ph doesnt swing its just plain low.

Don

 

[DonW]

I have 2 10K and 2 Actinic. Is it better to have them all 10K?

Then you definate have a light shortage.

Don

 

[chris&barb]

My ph doesnt swing its just plain low.

Don

:lol: so im not the only one:razz:

 

[marinegeek101]

My ph is low to

 

[lavenderfish]

Do any corals pose a toxin threat to tridacnas ie. GSP, zoas and leathers.:evil:

 

[chris&barb]

Do any corals pose a toxin threat to tridacnas ie. GSP, zoas and leathers.:evil:

anemones may sting clams and some corals may also, just dont set them close enough to touch. as for water born toxins or chemicals from corals, no, none that ive ever heard of.

 

[scytale]

:lol: so im not the only one:razz:

So 2 of RF's best clam-keepers have low pH, huh!

Is that just a coincidence, or THE SECRET to keeping great clams...hmmm...

 

[chris&barb]

So 2 of RF's best clam-keepers have low pH, huh!

Is that just a coincidence, or THE SECRET to keeping great clams...hmmm...

Ph is dependent on Co2 in the water. the more Co2 the lower the Ph. when you add "buffers" all that is doing is temporally displacing CO2(and raising Alk) as soon as your done adding these buffers the water will start to try to get back into equilibrium with the surrounding air (in regards to CO2) so your Ph starts to drop immediately. thats why people tend to have low Ph in the winter, there house's are all closed up and and the inside air will have higher CO2 levels, then when spring comes and we open our windows the Ph go's up.

Ph is not worth fighting or testing IMO its going to go where it wants. as long as you keep your Alk above 7dkh you should never have a Ph below7.8 and most of the time it will be around 8+- or more depending on the CO2 level

 

[DonW]

Ph is dependent on Co2 in the water. the more Co2 the lower the Ph. when you add "buffers" all that is doing is temporally displacing CO2(and raising Alk) as soon as your done adding these buffers the water will start to try to get back into equilibrium with the surrounding air (in regards to CO2) so your Ph starts to drop immediately. thats why people tend to have low Ph in the winter, there house's are all closed up and and the inside air will have higher CO2 levels, then when spring comes and we open our windows the Ph go's up.

Ph is not worth fighting or testing IMO its going to go where it wants. as long as you keep your Alk above 7dkh you should never have a Ph below7.8 and most of the time it will be around 8+- or more depending on the CO2 level

Agreed. IMO ph is better left alone. So many stress over it unnecessarily. Its become a high stress parameter in part because ph meters are so cheap and every controller under the sun claims to control ph. Yes the do switch a device on and off but they really have no real control over ph.

Don

 

[SueT]

awesome top 7 list Herefishyfishy...pH is one thing I have yet to test for. I will worry and fuss over everything else but have never worried about pH.

Beauty is all in the eye of the beholder. Each and every clam species out there has their own beauty..