Current in a reef tank

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johnnyg

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Messages
5
Location
Clarence,New York
Can someone or everyone please give me their opinion on creating current in a reef tank. Please be specific with response. All responses appreciated. Oh yeah...Hello to everyone as I am new to the family. :rolleyes:
 
Welcome johnnyg to Reeffrontiers....

Ok... current? what are you using first? or are you asking us what we are using and how we achieved it.
 
Hey, welcome to RF!!! Do you think that you could give us a few more particulars about your tank, (echoing what these guy said). We need to know your tank size, what you plan to keep etc...... Fill us in and we'll be glad to help.:D
 
I Don't Mean To Hijack The Thred I Have 75gal With 1" Drilled Return With Lps Euphilla (torches Frog Spawn Meat Brain. I Want To Kill Dead Spots At Bottem
 
Gobie... you need to mention if your running bottomless or DSB or few inches of sand... That is also a factor in determining a good flow.
 
My measurement I use solely based on my experience:
Low = 5-12 times turnover per hr
Medium = 12-20 times turnover per hr
High = 21+ times turnover per hr

I keep softies, large polyp stonies and small polyp stonies each prefer different amounts of indirect and direct flow

Softies = Indirect low to medium
Large Polyp Stonies = Indirect medium to strong
Small Polyp Stonies = Indirect and direct strong

I find alternating current direction or "random flow" transports food and crud through the water more effectively leading to better filtration from my skimmer but also for all of the filter feeders.

Just my 2 cents while I had a brief moment
 
Okay I have another moment. My above post are VERY general rules that I use very loosely.

In my 280 gallon tank I am only turning over about 14 times an hr yet because of the wavemaker I use, large number of outlets and the preasure feeding those outlets I get very strong random flow to the point where I have very few places to put softies and my fish are in contant (rapid) motion across the tank. I also have to have a bare bottom tank because the amount of flow would cause a constant sand storm. In fact my bare bottom remains spotless of debris.

Okay i'll stop with that because I could easily lead into filtration and other topics which are covered in ther library here.

Determine what you want to keep in the tank, how you would like to deliver water flow, and what form of filtration you would like to use. These will be foundaitonal in getting to where you want to be.
 
To all who have replied so far, thank you. As for specifics of my tank:

Tanks size 65 gallon
Sump Size 29 gallon-actual water held is 23 gallons
Lights Corallife power compact equipped with 4 96 watt bulbs 2 are 10,000k, 2 are actinic...also have a dbl flour with a 50/50 and another actinic
Substrate 1 1/2 -2 " crushed coral
Tank is scaped with 110 lbs roughly of live rock
I use a simple overflow box (Amircle) as my filter
I also have 2 maxijet 600 in tank for circulation
My tank family includes 2 true percula clownfish, 1 fire fish, 1 scooter blenny, 1 purple pseudo, 1 purple tang, 1 neon gobie, a 12 line wrasse...as far as corals...I have numerous mushroom rock, 5 flower anenome, as well as a purple long tentacle...inverts...halloween hermit, electric blue neon hermit, numerous species of snails inlcluding bumblebee, nassirius, and turbo, 1 fire shrimp, 1 coral banded numerous serpent stars from basic grey to a beautiful carribean? (white/grey and dark black rings). I also have some button orange polyps and some yellow polyps. I currently only protien skim my tank a few days a month. I do not use trace chemicals, with the exception of molybenum, and tech one...I use no filter pads other than the prefilter in the overflow box. I am in the process of setting up my sump with a crucshed coral base and some more life rock. I plan on lighting sump with a basic light (50/50 flour). This lighting schedule will be opposite of my display tank lighting. This set up has been running for 5 years...The tang, the larger true percula, and the firfish have been in the tank almost as long as it has been set up. look forward to posting pics...any tips for good pictures with a digital...I always seem to get glare! Thanks for advice as well as taking the time to read about "my little piece of the ocean". :razz:

forgot to mention that my water change schedule is not as strict as it once was. my water change routine is simple...blow detrius off of rock with powerhead, use a soft toothbrush to scrub any areas that are real bad...then siphon gravel bed and water column of 8 gallons of water...8 gallons of freshly prepared water is then added to sump..of course I use an algae magnet for the glass as needed...this is done minimum once a month, when on point, every week. My spring,summer and fall schedule consists of 80 hour weeks...winter is all I have to look forward to as normal life...that is when tank is primo!
 
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wow that stock list sounds better fit for a 90 gallon plus, but to read that you only skim occasionaly and do not have active filtration yet its been running for years blows plenty of norms out. Are you perfroming weekly water changes then?

Anyway, what about "current" are you hoping to learn?
 
I do not believe my style at filtration is out of norm. As this site proclaims..that everyone has a way that works. What I am achieving by not using filter pads and not skimming my water constantly is simply life forms and food for the fish and inverts active in my tank. By constantly using a filter pad and skimming your water you remove almost all of your zooplankton and copepods and other similar life. I am not claiming my set up is the way, but it has worked well for years. My mandarin and goby species I move in and out always due very well. I unfortunately lost a mandarin that had also been in the tank for four years?! (at this point, I want to also mention that I am a local "reef constructor" in the Buffalo, NY area. I use these ideas on numerous tanks, all with good results. However, I also have nano reef setups that run mechanical filters of various designs and constant protien skimming due to the small volume of water in the system. As pointed out by this community...there are many ways to skin a cat!)

As for my quest for info on current...I am in the process of setting up a large scale fish room...I have always been in amazement of how many different theories there are on creating and maintaining a current in a reef tank. The placement of powerheads, to the size used. If used at all. I am just trying to see what is the majority of peoples ways. Once again, thanks for any and all help. I am also updating my photo gallery with some pics, please take a look.

forgot to mention that my water change schedule is not as strict as it once was. my water change routine is simple...blow detrius off of rock with powerhead, use a soft toothbrush to scrub any areas that are real bad...then siphon gravel bed and water column of 8 gallons of water...8 gallons of freshly prepared water is then added to sump..of course I use an algae magnet for the glass as needed...this is done minimum once a month, when on point, every week. My spring,summer and fall schedule consists of 80 hour weeks...winter is all I have to look forward to as normal life...that is when tank is premo!
 
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I looked at your photos. Your plumbing seems very extensive. Any chance you could give me a breakdown of how you are plumbed. It seems as if you are using multiple jets that are drilled directly through tank? Also noticed your overflow seemed to be as long as your tank?! Any powerheads? I appreciate your time and response. I have noticed that the approach to how a reef tank is constructed varies by region. Where I am located in the US New York East Coast is not how say California West Coast, and definitely not around the world would approach a reef tank. From tank design all the way to brand and type of hard goods used. As the room I am planning has 17 plus tanks designed for it, I would like to find out about other methods. I know my own can not possibly be the best way. One feeling I have about reef tanks is that the overall hobby can some times be to "technical". Not to say that the people who use the most advanced drip systems and computer controlled calibrators aren't great. Just around my area, that will sometimes be the myth that scares people away from a very rewarding hobby. As I am sure most would agree, reef tanks can be simple to set up and maintain...you just have to plan ahead and adequately. Once again, thanks for your time.
 
Here is mine dual 1/5 inch intakes for the closed loop four 3/4 returns on the closed loop reduced from 1.5 just at the tank I also have a mag 12 for a retuen from my sump going to dual 1/2 returns. Spray bar in the bottom or the tank is 1 inch and also runs on the closed loop. Closed loop is run with a Ampmaster 3600


Here are pics back and front



HTH
 

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