Cyano algae?

[joker577]

Hey guys I believe I'm having an outbreak of cyano because its beginning to look burgundy on the SB of the tank...I think it's cause I use tap with prime. But I was thinking...if Coralline algae steals nutrients from other nuisance algaes preventing them from growing (atleast that's what I've been told), would it be possible to get Purple Up, the stuff that helps coralline algae grow quicker, would that help get rid of the problem?

 

[twilliard]

I think some one is leading you astray.
Save your money. Soon you will be cussing the coraline.
nutrients- get it out or dont put it in
thats the bottom line.

 

[Jan]

I don't think so.

Coraline just prevents nuisace algae from growing in the spot that the coraline is already on. I've never seen coraline on sandbeds so I don't think it's going to help you with this.

I've read that to combat cyano you need to increase flow, keep the nutrient level down, do frequent water changes (once a week), and it will eventually go away. You can speed up the process by trying to syphon the cyano out of the tank.

 

[drummereef]

I'd stay away from Purple Up honestly. I would increase flow across the sandbed, skim more, and reduce nutrients as much as possible.

 

[joker577]

I can't really increase much flow into the sandbed itself, because it's finer sand it ends up making big mounds, same with siphoning it'd just pick up the sand too

 

[mmkeeper]

get some ro/di from you local lfs and do some water changes. Cut back your lights. Go a day without lights even

 

[drummereef]

I can't really increase much flow into the sandbed itself, because it's finer sand it ends up making big mounds, same with siphoning it'd just pick up the sand too

Just re-read your post. The excess nutrients are likely coming from your tap water. Until this area is addressed you probably will continue having problems. Getting to the source of the nutrient problem is crucial. There won't ever be an end if you are constantly adding nutrients from the water source unfortunately. If you can get your hands on some RO/DI water or even distilled from your local grocery that would really help. Your LFS should even sell RO/DI. Just make sure you test the TDS first to make sure it's low. Preferably 0 TDS.

 

[joker577]

I replaced 2 gallons with RO water last week, perhaps i'll try to make that a weekly thing...it's only .50 per gallon

 

[Damsel13]

Sounds like a great plan joker577

 

[drummereef]

I replaced 2 gallons with RO water last week, perhaps i'll try to make that a weekly thing...it's only .50 per gallon

That sounds good. The more frequent water changes the better. That will help dilute the nutrient level from the tap water.

 

[auqua man]

I'd stay away from Purple Up honestly. I would increase flow across the sandbed, skim more, and reduce nutrients as much as possible.

I think If you follow this advice you will no longer have the problem.

 

[drummereef]

I think If you follow this advice you will no longer have the problem.

Sounds simple doesn't it! :lol: It's actually doing it that's the hard part, unfortunately.

 

[joker577]

Tomorrow perhaps I'll go out and get 3 gallons of RO water...replace it into the tank with salt and kents nano buffer

 

[drummereef]

Tomorrow perhaps I'll go out and get 3 gallons of RO water...replace it into the tank with salt and kents nano buffer

This RO water you speaketh of... Where are you getting this? Have you tested the TDS yet?

 

[joker577]

i get it from Petland

 

[drummereef]

Ok, is it RO or RO/DI? And can they test the TDS for you?

 

[joker577]

I believe it's just RO and I haven't asked about TDS....they use it for their tanks without any problems so.

 

[drummereef]

Ok. They also might be implementing some other types of filtration that you might not be at this point. A properly functioning RO/DI filter will produce pure water with 0 TDS (measureable). That would be optimal to limit nutrients coming from the water source. Just to give you an example... My RO will produce a TDS around 40. After it hits the DI stage it is 0. In my experience, water with a TDS above 1 will have enough nutrient to feed algae. Most of the time, silica and phosphate are the first things to pass through a failing resin/membrane. If they can test if for you at least you'd know.

 

[joker577]

I don't think they're smart enough personally lol

 

[drummereef]

:lol: Yeah, most LFS aren't up to snuff on a lot of stuff. TDS meters are fairly inexpensive. I got mine for $30. It's really a handy tool to let you know what's going on with your fresh water.

Here's a good place to pick one up.
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/tds_meters.htm