Cyano??

[returnofsid]

Lately, I've noticed an increase in what I think is cyanobacteria growing in my 46 gal. It's mostly growing on the substrate in places but in other places has started to grow up onto some of the live rock. I'm also noticing it growing on the chaeto and some of my halimedia. Now, I'm not positive that this is cyano so I'll add pics. I'll also describe it as a redish algae looking substance that seems to be starting to have some filamentious hair growing off of it as it grows. It's not bubbly at all. When I vacuum it up, it does come up pretty easily off of the substrate and seems to detatch in large pieces as I vacuum it. Pics are linked below. Please help me figure out if this is indeed cyano and please help me figure out how to get rid of it.
Unfortunately, I do not have an RO unit. Up until recently, I've never had a problem with this. I've had very small amounts of it growing but it's never gotten out of control.


http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=f9a3531e.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch1

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=8f5a732b.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch2

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=08c2274f.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch3

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=1a26c3e5.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch4

 

[sytnom]

Water flow and a clean-up crew of some sort fixed it for me. The flow of your power heads must not be reaching those spots. HTH, Monty

 

[returnofsid]

That is true. I don't get much water flow down that low. I'll try re-arranging my powerheads and maybe even add one down low. I do have a pretty good cleanup crew that's done a great job on the hair algae and other algaes that I had growing on my live rock and glass. They do seem to be attacking the cyano that's growing on the front pane of glass as well but not very enthustiatically.

 

[dmo]

Is this a new tank? Cyano is a common stage in the maturation of live rock. There is no quick fix in that case, it is caused (in part?) by the continued decay of microfauna etc. inside of new rock (even after ammonia and nitrites read 0), releasing nutrients into the water.

I don't think adding more of cleaning crew or redirecting water flow will help a great amount as the nutrients will still be there. I think cyano should be consistently vacuumed as much as possible, and just wait it out with limited feeding. Mine lasted 4 weeks or so, then disappeared completely.

If this is an established tank (at least 6 months) then look to other sources, such as over feeding, or tap water quality. Your water district may have detailed water parameters available online.

 

[returnofsid]

Darius, thanks for your remarks. This is kind of an established tank, in that when I purchased it, it was very established. I broke it down, moved it and set it back up within a couple hours. I'm thinking that it may be a water problem as this is the time of year when those things should start occuring lol. Although I'm using the same water with 2 other SW tanks and 2 FW tanks. I am having an algae bloom in another SW tank that is recovering from a hyposalinity. No Cyano in it or the other SW tank at all though. I'll continue with the vacuuming though and cut back a lil' on feeding.

 

[dmo]

How quickly is the cyano growing? Mine could cover the rocks and bottom of the tank over the course of a day or two, so managing it was very difficult. I ended up taking the fish out and completely stopped feeding the tank. Around that time I also bought a fairly cheap (comparatively) RO/DI system. Though I cant say that it fixed my problem, it definitely gave me some peace of mind.

After re-reading your first post, I'd have to say I was wrong about re-directing the flow.. It might help some in keeping the cyano from growing while giving your macro algae time to export the nutrients..

 

[steve-s]

RO/DI is only one step in a series you need to take. Water flow is definately part of the issue. Corallimorphs really detest higher water flow areas and yours appear to be doing quite well. That suggests the water flow is a little on the low side.

Overfeeding may be a concern but before you cut back on the feedings, look also at how you feed, the consistancey/frequency and preparation.
Are you soaking the foods first to rinse excess P, are the foods fresh frozen or dried, is the same amount of food being fed each time and is there sufficient export/control of wastes. The biggest concern in terms of food is usually type (dried mainly) and consistancey. Algae blooms are usually the result of a large flux in bacteria. Food fed translate into bacterial numbers. If the food wax and wane, so does the bacteria. When the bacteria die, the algaes benefit and grow.

The two biggest food sources for cyano are N and P. Those should be where you start looking for possible solutions. Improved/increased export is the first best step. Addressing the amount/type of food is one thing but don't cut back much unless you feel it's excessive. You will end up fixing one problem and creating another. The goal here is balance.

Hows the chemistry and what additives do you use (if any)?

Cheers
Steve

 

[returnofsid]

My water parameters are as follows.
Salinity 1.024
Amonia 0
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 0
PH 8.4
dKH 9.3
Mg .16

These are all that I have tests for. I do have a Calcium test kit but am missing the re-agent crystals for it.

I feed the following schedule.

Spirulina flakes once every other day.
Frozen Formula 1 once each day.
Frozen Formula 2 about twice a week.
Frozen Mysid Shrimp about twice a week.
SweetWater Zooplankton (referigerated) once a day. (to this, I've added crushed garlic to the jar)

I don't rinse any foods but do thaw the frozen foods in a shot glass of tank water.

About once a week, I'll feed a treat of finely chopped up prawns.
I feed my RBTA about twice a week and each feeding consists of a pice of prawn or a piece of Tilapia.

About twice a week, I also feed/dose the tank with either Marine Snow Plankton Diet or Seachem's Reef Plus Concentrated Vit. and Amino Acid Supplement. Each of these is fed once a week.

I also dose Purple Up but only once a week and not even at the recommended dosage. I don't dose as recommended because I don't have a way to test for Calcium.

I turn off the protein skimmer during dosing of Marine Snow and the Reef Plus. Other than that, the protein skimmer is always on.

Eventually, I would love to be able to get an RO unit but just can't afford it at this time. I know I could get RO water from Kevin but just haven't made it a practice to do that because of the hassle involved. Guess maybe I should have...lol.

I also am running an AquaClear 500 HOB that I've turned into a mini-refugium and it's full of Chaeto.

Would I benefit from sand sifting starfish or sand sifting snails? Currently I really don't have anything in there that's turning over the sand with the exception of the bristleworms, bristlestars and pods.

I do plan on increasing flow in the lower half of the tank as well.

 

[steve-s]

Not having an RO/DI is not an immediate cause for this. It's easily tested for anyway. P is your number one contributor out of the tap. Simpley take a tap water and tank water sample to your LFS and have them test the PO4 level. I'll bet even money the tap is undetectable/very low and the tank is elevated. Keep in mind if you get an RO unit, you must get the DI portion also. An RO membrane will not remove P from the water, only the DI resin will.

Your chem looks good. What you feed is a contributor but you largest issues by far is this...

I don't rinse any foods

Foods are pretty much the highest means of introducing P. By not rinsing the foods before use, you are compounding the problem at each feeding. Once the foods are thawed, drain any excess water and dump it out before your feed the animals. I would also suggest mashing it a bit, adding some Selcon and a vitamin and soaking an hour or so as well. Never hurts after you "bleed" the food and drain it of other possibley essential nutrient.

I think by and large your problems will be significantly reduced just from that. I would also nix the Spirulina flake and look for something far less polluting. What fish species was this intended for?

The sweetwater zooplankton is also going to be a huge source of P. I am not going to suggest you eliminate it although their might be better options. I think instead be aware of what's being added and have something in place that will combat the problem. What specific animal is this intended for?

Your biggest pluses will come from export more than being mindul of imput. You usually end up sacrificing much more benefit for the small gain.. Macro algae and/or soft coral harvesting, regular large water changes, heavy wet skimming and the use of ferous based granular media.

Cheers
Steve

 

[burning2nd]

get your self a brine shrimp net, and wash it good. (the frozen) add some more movement, water changes, try to scoop it out


as far as the food goes, wash and drain,

will most likey fix your problem
but it will take a month of so or corrected feeding habbet and water changes to correct