Design a DIY LED light

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mojoreef

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So from Pm's, emails and posts it seems their are a lot of folks that would like to get into a DIY led system but are a little freaked out about how to figure out what they need and then how to do it. SOooooo heres your chance if you want a diy led and your going to go for it, let me know for what tank you want to do it I can design it and give you a parts list, from their I am sure we can walk you through it.


Mike
 
Sounds good!! Great idea! You should post up a link to your DIY build just as a reference for those who have never seen it, but I like this idea! :)


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I think he is just offering to design a light and give a parts list to those who want to build their own light but aren't sure what to buy. I don't believe there will be any building done by anyone other than the person asking for the help. I think this is a fantastic idea for those who want to DIY but are afraid to take the leap out of fear of the unknown. I know we were completely stuck there a few months ago.
 
I love jumping into the unknown.
I think I would like to know how any why this type of lighting system is set up. I will follow along to help myself better understand the new fangled tech.
Although I must admit I have friends in high places (and Low Places) that would be able to design and build a top notch system for my upcoming build, and I am not below asking for this type of help. But I feel better if I know the hows and why of something that is way above my head, for now.

Great idea Mike, Pictures of parts, what they are called, what they do, why they are needed. Would help a bunch for us electric dummies
 
To get this started I think that a breakdown of each and every component would be a good idea. This way people know what they are, and why they need them.

HEATSINK – A heat sink is designed to increase the surface area in contact with the cooling fluid surrounding it, such as the air. Approach air velocity, choice of material, fin (or other protrusion) design and surface treatment are some of the factors which affect the thermal performance of a heat sink. Heat sinks are used to cool computer central processing units or graphics processors. Heat sink attachment methods and thermal interface materials also affect the eventual die temperature of the integrated circuit. In order to maintain a low junction temperature to keep good performance of an LED, every method of removing heat from LEDs should be considered. Conduction, convection, and radiation are the three means of heat transfer. Typically, LEDs are encapsulated in a transparent resin, which is a poor thermal conductor. Nearly all heat produced is conducted through the back side of the chip. Heat is generated from the PN junction by electrical energy that was not converted to useful light, and conducted to outside ambience through a long path, from junction to solder point, solder point to board, and board to the heat sink and then to the atmosphere. To further aid in the active transfer of heat a computer fan is used to increase the cool fluid (air) over the heat sink, dissipating the excess heat.

HIGH POWER LED’s - High-power LEDs (HPLED) can be driven at currents from hundreds of mA to more than an ampere, compared with the tens of mA for other LEDs. Some can emit over a thousand lumens.[83][84] Since overheating is destructive, the HPLEDs must be mounted on a heat sink to allow for heat dissipation. If the heat from a HPLED is not removed, the device will fail in seconds. One HPLED can often replace an incandescent bulb in a flashlight, or be set in an array to form a powerful LED lamp. Some well-known HPLEDs in this category are the Lumileds Rebel Led, Osram Opto Semiconductors Golden Dragon, and Cree X-lamp. As of September 2009, some HPLEDs manufactured by Cree Inc. now exceed 105 lm/W [85] (e.g. the XLamp XP-G LED chip emitting Cool White light) and are being sold in lamps intended to replace incandescent, halogen, and even fluorescent lights, as LEDs grow more cost competitive.
LED Drivers - An LED driver is a self-contained power supply that has outputs matched to the electrical characteristics of your LED or array of LEDs. There are currently no industry standards, so understanding the electrical characteristics of your LED or array is critical in selecting or designing a driver circuit. Drivers should be current-regulated (deliver a consistent current over a range of load voltages). Drivers may also offer dimming by means of pulse width modulation (PWM) circuits. Drivers may have more than one channel for separate control of different LEDs or arrays.

PWM – PWM can be used to control the amount of power delivered to a load without incurring the losses that would result from linear power delivery by resistive means. Potential drawbacks to this technique are the pulsations defined by the duty cycle, switching frequency and properties of the load.

0-10 V - is one of the earliest and simplest electronic lighting control signaling systems; simply put, the control signal is a DC voltage that varies between zero and ten volts. The controlled lighting should scale its output so that at 10 V, the controlled light should be at 100% of its potential output, and at 0 V it should at 0% output (i.e. “Off”). Dimming devices may be designed to respond in various patterns to the intermediate voltages, giving output curves that are linear for: voltage output, actual light output, power output, or perceived light output.

Lens's - A lens helps focus the light emitted from the diode to what ever degree is desired. Typically the higher the light is off the surface of the water the narrower the lens needs to be.

There is obviously a little bit of an art when assembling these and making sure that they are safe. Some of mistakes I made when I first started was making sure that none of the wires touched the actual star part of the LED. I blew several fuses from this. The star is electrically isolated from the LED but defininately electrically connected to the heat sink. So verifying all connections are not shorted to the board or heatsink is a huge one. Another is making sure that if you are screwing your LED's into your heatsink and good amount of thermal paste should be applied to make sure that there is no air pockets that will eventually cause a heat issue. If your led is not completely thermally connected to the heatsink you will not get the proper thermal management which could lead to something as small as spectral shift, to a chatostrophic failure of the lighting circuit. So keep that in mind when screwing these down, the heatsink is not completely flat (at the microscopic level) and has grooves that can cause issues down the road. A little thermal paste will help fill these voids and improve the management of heat alot better. THe next way of applying the PCB to the heatsink is through thermal adhesive. This is a permanent bond and will not allow a changing of the chip if there is an issue later. Though it is really efficient for installation purposes, and is good for thermal management.

The LED's themselves is where the majority of the confusion comes from. What LED do I use? How do I know that it is the right color? What is a BIN? Well lets start this off by stating that their are a lot of different companies out there offering a lot of different LED's. This becomes a huge debate, I believe that with the standards of LED's and the forever changing industry that will constantly have a bigger and better thing next week. We may never be at the top of this. So My recommendation is to do the research. Cree is obviously the most pushed LED in this industry, however there are several other manufacturer that meet and exceed our needs. So do research and find out what fits you best. I am currently running
 
To get this started I think that a breakdown of each and every component would be a good idea. This way people know what they are, and why they need them.

HEATSINK – A heat sink is designed to increase the surface area in contact with the cooling fluid surrounding it, such as the air. Approach air velocity, choice of material, fin (or other protrusion) design and surface treatment are some of the factors which affect the thermal performance of a heat sink. Heat sinks are used to cool computer central processing units or graphics processors. Heat sink attachment methods and thermal interface materials also affect the eventual die temperature of the integrated circuit. In order to maintain a low junction temperature to keep good performance of an LED, every method of removing heat from LEDs should be considered. Conduction, convection, and radiation are the three means of heat transfer. Typically, LEDs are encapsulated in a transparent resin, which is a poor thermal conductor. Nearly all heat produced is conducted through the back side of the chip. Heat is generated from the PN junction by electrical energy that was not converted to useful light, and conducted to outside ambience through a long path, from junction to solder point, solder point to board, and board to the heat sink and then to the atmosphere. To further aid in the active transfer of heat a computer fan is used to increase the cool fluid (air) over the heat sink, dissipating the excess heat.

HIGH POWER LED’s - High-power LEDs (HPLED) can be driven at currents from hundreds of mA to more than an ampere, compared with the tens of mA for other LEDs. Some can emit over a thousand lumens.[83][84] Since overheating is destructive, the HPLEDs must be mounted on a heat sink to allow for heat dissipation. If the heat from a HPLED is not removed, the device will fail in seconds. One HPLED can often replace an incandescent bulb in a flashlight, or be set in an array to form a powerful LED lamp. Some well-known HPLEDs in this category are the Lumileds Rebel Led, Osram Opto Semiconductors Golden Dragon, and Cree X-lamp. As of September 2009, some HPLEDs manufactured by Cree Inc. now exceed 105 lm/W [85] (e.g. the XLamp XP-G LED chip emitting Cool White light) and are being sold in lamps intended to replace incandescent, halogen, and even fluorescent lights, as LEDs grow more cost competitive.
LED Drivers - An LED driver is a self-contained power supply that has outputs matched to the electrical characteristics of your LED or array of LEDs. There are currently no industry standards, so understanding the electrical characteristics of your LED or array is critical in selecting or designing a driver circuit. Drivers should be current-regulated (deliver a consistent current over a range of load voltages). Drivers may also offer dimming by means of pulse width modulation (PWM) circuits. Drivers may have more than one channel for separate control of different LEDs or arrays.

PWM – PWM can be used to control the amount of power delivered to a load without incurring the losses that would result from linear power delivery by resistive means. Potential drawbacks to this technique are the pulsations defined by the duty cycle, switching frequency and properties of the load.

0-10 V - is one of the earliest and simplest electronic lighting control signaling systems; simply put, the control signal is a DC voltage that varies between zero and ten volts. The controlled lighting should scale its output so that at 10 V, the controlled light should be at 100% of its potential output, and at 0 V it should at 0% output (i.e. “Off”). Dimming devices may be designed to respond in various patterns to the intermediate voltages, giving output curves that are linear for: voltage output, actual light output, power output, or perceived light output.

Lens's - A lens helps focus the light emitted from the diode to what ever degree is desired. Typically the higher the light is off the surface of the water the narrower the lens needs to be.

There is obviously a little bit of an art when assembling these and making sure that they are safe. Some of mistakes I made when I first started was making sure that none of the wires touched the actual star part of the LED. I blew several fuses from this. The star is electrically isolated from the LED but defininately electrically connected to the heat sink. So verifying all connections are not shorted to the board or heatsink is a huge one. Another is making sure that if you are screwing your LED's into your heatsink and good amount of thermal paste should be applied to make sure that there is no air pockets that will eventually cause a heat issue. If your led is not completely thermally connected to the heatsink you will not get the proper thermal management which could lead to something as small as spectral shift, to a chatostrophic failure of the lighting circuit. So keep that in mind when screwing these down, the heatsink is not completely flat (at the microscopic level) and has grooves that can cause issues down the road. A little thermal paste will help fill these voids and improve the management of heat alot better. THe next way of applying the PCB to the heatsink is through thermal adhesive. This is a permanent bond and will not allow a changing of the chip if there is an issue later. Though it is really efficient for installation purposes, and is good for thermal management.

The LED's themselves is where the majority of the confusion comes from. What LED do I use? How do I know that it is the right color? What is a BIN? Well lets start this off by stating that their are a lot of different companies out there offering a lot of different LED's. This becomes a huge debate, I believe that with the standards of LED's and the forever changing industry that will constantly have a bigger and better thing next week. We may never be at the top of this. So My recommendation is to do the research. Cree is obviously the most pushed LED in this industry, however there are several other manufacturer that meet and exceed our needs. So do research and find out what fits you best. I am currently running

Thats what I am talkin about.


Thank you tat
 
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Different ways of electrically connecting LED's

Series:
LEDToDimwellSeriesWiring.png


I also believe that 1 amp fuses should be used inline when doing a series connection.

Parallel:
led234.jpg


The only thing that the parallel does not show is the inline fuses and 1 ohm 5 watt resistors. Because of it being in a parallel circuit the voltage across all branches will be the same, but the current wil be split by however many branches being used. For instance, if you are using a Meanwell 48d 1050. You would have 48 volts across each branch that would need to be dissipated, for example 3 branches of 12x3w leds. THe current would then be divided by 3. (1050mA /3) So the 1050mA would now be 350mA over each branch. The resistors are there to balance the total resistance across the individual branches. If one branch is higher or less total resistance then the current will increase or decrease given that and could cause a catastrophic failure of all LEDs. The fuses are there to protect each branch from drawing to much current in case another branch opens.
 
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Awesome to see this thread here after seeing so many LED builds.

Floyd, I would recommend you show the diodes (LEDS), resistors and fuses in the wiring diagrams if possible as this may help folks understand where those would go in the circuit or in the branches of each circuit for any resistors. Also what are the blue and grey wires for fro mthe driver? Is the driver capable of running two circuits? Or dop these go to your controller?

Again awesome information thus far and look forward to seeing a lot more informtaion flying onto these pages. I will be building a simple LED array for a smaller sized refugium soon and this thread will surely help me along the way.

Cheers,
Alex
 
THe Blue and grey coming off of the meanwell would be, depending on the driver either your PWM input from a pwm controller, or your 0 to 10vdc reference signal off of a potentiometer with a 10vdc input. There are other led drivers that perform as well as the meanwell's, however, these are the most widely pushed LED drivers. I have done two builds with the inventronics dimmables which are comparable in clean smooth output and they have a built in 0 to 10vdc reference voltage, getting rid of the requirement to have a 10vdc wall wart plugged into the wall, and a 24vdc powersupply with a digital processor regulating the current output. I have also done several builds with the meanwells and feel that unless you are going with the pwm input, the other pot version requires another outlet for a 10vdc reference voltage.
 
I think he is just offering to design a light and give a parts list to those who want to build their own light but aren't sure what to buy. I don't believe there will be any building done by anyone other than the person asking for the help. I think this is a fantastic idea for those who want to DIY but are afraid to take the leap out of fear of the unknown. I know we were completely stuck there a few months ago.

Yea this was my intention with the thread but this is a good idea for sure, so lets carry on with this one and I will start another for the other.

Mike
 
Do you need to run a resistor with each LED like the old fashion LED ciruits or can you run a single resistor for each circuit branch?

And are these Cree or no name LED stars still considered a forward voltage diode? Meaning voltage will only travel in one direction across the star LED board?

Cheers,
Alex
 
so question...
if i wanted to have a fixture with say 4 channels of controlability,
would i need to get 4 controllable/dimmable drivers, one for each color??

You are correct Mark. If you want total control on the individual colors then it is one (or more) driver per color. You can control multiple drivers on one channel if you have more LED's of a single color than the given single driver can power.
 
Do you need to run a resistor with each LED like the old fashion LED ciruits or can you run a single resistor for each circuit branch?

And are these Cree or no name LED stars still considered a forward voltage diode? Meaning voltage will only travel in one direction across the star LED board?

Cheers,
Alex

Alex, you just need to run one resistor per string of LED's. For example our setup has 24 emitters per driver wired as 2 strings of 12 in parallel and we ran one resistor and one inline fuse per string of 12 emitters.

As to the directional voltage I don't believe it matters. Ours could be wired in any direction as long as you attached wire to one + and one - on the star. We have Cree XP-E units. Maybe someone who knows different will say so.

Eric
 
so question...
if i wanted to have a fixture with say 4 channels of controlability,
would i need to get 4 controllable/dimmable drivers, one for each color??

Skimmy, in order to change the intensity on four separate circuits you would need four seperate drivers. However I do believe that if you go with the arduino I believe that there is a way to control different branches control amperage off of one driver. Using several different IC's and programming them to that. I will have to look that up for you. But remember any time you go parallel the amperage is divided by how many branches you are making in your circuit. For example a 1050ma driver broken into 3 parallel circuits would equal 350mA across each branch. So to have the ability to have the 1050 on each branch you would need a driver with a 3A output.
 
The directional voltage is important. IT is directy proprtional to the input current. The forward voltage will rise as the amount of current goes through the emitter. With this being said if you have 12 LED's in a circuit and each LED has a 3.2 to 3.6 forward voltage then you must have a driver that will meet this 3.6x12 = 43.2vdc. As the voltage goes through the emitters the voltage will drop with each emitter. However if the amperage is increased the forward voltage increases possibly leading toa breakdown in the junction causing the reverse voltage to raise and increasing the reverse current to flow. This could cause a catastrophic failure of your diode.
 
You have to have the Pos output Lead to the Pos input on the star. If not the system will not work. A LED is like a check valve only allowing electrons to flow in one direction. So if you have a negative lead connected to your positive it will not allow the string to work.
 
THx Floyd, So these Star style LEDs are just like a standard Light Emitting Diode. :lol:

Simple Diodes that allow for the voltage to only flow in one direction and will not light if the voltage is reversed. :D So I assume there is always a minimum amount of LEDs that you must have in the circuit depending on the driver specifications?

Cheers,
Alex
 

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