Design a DIY LED light

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The fixture is designed to work with their 18 inch heat sink so you should be ok. The slim version is the height so good on the eyes but wont fit your drivers (actually not sure if the regular would either, you should call Bill). Your tank is 20 by 20 so length you would be fine, but front to back you might need another. and yes on the fans


Mike
 
Opps no I didnt Eww thanks, I stopped a long time ago with all the names out thier. Ok so on a 20 x 20 cube your probably going to want two of those pending on your rockwork and such, go a picture of the tank???


Mike

We have the same tank in our bedroom. Its an AIO so the display area its actually about 20w x 15d x 20h. What do you think of one 8.46 x 18 heatsink in either one of the reefledlights housings out in a light fixture housing like Shane mentions. 24 3w emitters, 10 RB, 5 B, 7 CW, 1 red, 1 green. The 10 RB and 2 B on one dimming driver and the rest one the other dimming driver. Carlo optics on all but the red and green.

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Mike. I will order the regular version then. My fixture now is about 4 1/4 tall and 12 " deep. My rock work is a huge Pile with holes and caves. My SPS are mostly mounted on the top 1/3 of the tank. Most of the Acans and Chalices are on the bottom half of the rock scape or on the sand bed. Th actual coverage area is less than 16" because of the sump area in the back.

Hope this description helps. I know pics describe it better and will work to get some posted..

Again, thanks for all of the help..I can't say it enough, you people are awesome and I am truly Blessed to be a part of such a great community. I Love RF
 
Ahh ok then even easier, lol Shane you can think outside the box so to speak also. YOu could make a fixture out of Black acrylic or some slick wood or even brushed allumium?? What ever is going to look nice in that room

Mike
 
Eric..I really like the color choices!! It's just like you and I had discussed thru PM..

I know it will only take 1 fixture, based on what my PAC SUNS coverage area was. It's just a matter of what optics to use at the height of the fixture. I want to be very carefully of the spotlight affect.
 
Mike...You are absolutely right, I have many options. However, I lack the confidence and the know how to fabricate. I don't have a lot of tools here at home. Everything is at my work, and who knows when I will be released to go back.

I am a very active person, and this taking it easy and limiting my physical mobility is just killing me. Right now all I have is my mind, and it is Racing with this project.

It sure is nice to have something to focus on right now, and this is all I have been thinking about...

Darn you Mark and Eric..lol

Jeff, you to now that I think about it. After our phone conversation and you telling me of your plans, I got Focused!!!!!
 
One more thing. Should I buy a Par meter? I would like to take readings of my T-5's to develop a base line. I know there is difference from Bulbs to LED'S, but I want to be very careful and not shock or even kill any of my livestock. When I first switched to LED'S on my 120, I started them out at 50%. Even at that I shocked and burned, even killed many corals. Not Fair of me. The corals deserved better.

This Solana has some very nice pcs that I have grown out from Even Fractions of frags. I have had a few problems with the tank since my surgery,that I just didn't catch in time. That has since been corrected, but I have a few bleached out SPS with some R.T.N.

I am just trying to think this out thoroughly.
 
based on what my PAC SUNS coverage area was. It's just a matter of what optics to use at the height of the fixture. I want to be very carefully of the spotlight affect.
Pac Sun's have no optic so they just scater out the light, the optics will focus it more and give you better PAR driving down into the tank. Their are many optics, some of the new one will spread it out side to side but not much front to back, some do it based on degree, so we can find one no sweat.

, I lack the confidence and the know how to fabricate. I don't have a lot of tools here at home.

Then all you need is friends with benefits??? lol

One more thing. Should I buy a Par meter?

Sure!! they are only about 350 bucks and then you would have to let me hold on to it for you.....you know...security wise!!!!!
 
When I first switched to LED'S on my 120, I started them out at 50%. Even at that I shocked and burned, even killed many corals.

Shane, when we switched from 900w of MH to our LED array we started them at 10%. We bumped them 3% per week until we got to 31%. It was at that point we started noticing negative effects of too much light so we backed them down to 25% and have left them there for a few weeks now. Colors are amazing and with cooling fans off the heat sinks only get warm to the touch. We go ahead and run the fans anyway and the heatsinks are actually cool to the touch. The heat under the emitters is almost unnoticeable with your hand directly under them.

Mojo, would you change anything in the proposed LED color mix that I put up earlier?
 
Wow..I guess I will have to buy 2 par meters for that price, what a bargain..Lmao

Well scratch that idea, I will just be very carefully and slowly raise the intensity.


I am still trying to figure out a fixture, I will post what I come up with.

I can't say it enough, I really appreciate the help you guys.
 
Oh yeah, I will need lots of help...lol..I just spent an hr looking thru the website and trying to get a list of parts I will need. There are just way to many options that I know nothing about.
I tried to use Eric's list he posted, and got very confused. So many options, so little knowledge!!!

I had no idea of the various parts and selection available.. What a great website...I'm sure they are where I will place my order from when I know what I will actually need:)
 
Yea I would change it up a bit.

Mojo

Well are you just gonna keep it in your pocket? Show us your hand buddy. I was going off Shane liking the 18k look the most and thought a 2 blue to 1 white ratio would make it easy to get there.

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I would make the ratio closer to 1 to 1 on the total blue verses the white and the dump the red for cyan, keep the green and add a couple of violets. The whites penetrate deeper and have a littler broader of a wave, the cyan does the same as the red but does it at a lower wave and then the green and violet just adds to the overall search for as many wave points as we caan create.


Mike
 
Eric, I really do need your help!! I looked thru the site and am even more lost than before. Many options. Once we figure out the color scheme that will help a lot. How many drivers we will need, how many controll nobs.

Do I but already soldered nobs? Do I but pre tapped heatsinks? What optics do I get?? Do I try to buy a kit, and hope they will let me choose the colors I want? Wow...My head is spinning!!!
 
Mike, would you go Blue or royal blue? There is also different types of Cree's...xte. Xpe. Xtc Xps. .....lol....what will work best for my application?
,
 
Start a thread shane and we will put one together for ya with a drawing and a parts list.


Mike
 
Eric, I really do need your help!! I looked thru the site and am even more lost than before. Many options. Once we figure out the color scheme that will help a lot. How many drivers we will need, how many controll nobs.

Do I but already soldered nobs? Do I but pre tapped heatsinks? What optics do I get?? Do I try to buy a kit, and hope they will let me choose the colors I want? Wow...My head is spinning!!!

I wouldnt bother with the drilled/pre tapped heat sinks! I know Eric will give yah a hand, he's a great friend :)
 
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