Discussion of the week lets talk about Electrical Equipment!

[Fly n Reef]

Thanks Scooterman for the reply but that is well beyond my comfort zone with electricity. I really don't know what I need to order from your link to make my situation work.
Thanks for doing some checking. I am staying tuned.
Karen

 

[Scooterman]

Yes Karen, I want to put something together that anyone can do easily, I guess this is part of the reason why I haven't found what I'm looking for, I hope this morning after our meeting, I can talk to a few Electrical Engineers & see what they say lol, I hate that because they usually go wayyyy over board but it is the price we must pay lol

 

[NaH2O]

LOL, Scott. Are you implying that engineers overkill projects? Hmmm....maybe this is why my tank stand has an FOS = 24

 

[reedman]

Karen,

I have used an extension cord as a quick disconnect in the past. I just plug the two ends together and cut the cord. Solder (or twist connect) the wires from lights to one end, the other end to the ballast and walla...quick disconnect. I do not advise putting this over the water as it is not water proof, but it does provide a reliable connection at a low price. Lets see what the pros have to say about this though...

-Reed

 

[Scooterman]

Well, somewhere out there is probably an easier way for the DIY person but to make a
Wire to wire connection that can be removed, these are about the best route to go. One of these is fairly easy to make up, you use the little crimp connector,

 

[Scooterman]

One for each wire, each male housing will come with a set of male crimp connectors & the plastic housing

 

[Scooterman]

Same with the female housing,

 

[Scooterman]

Then the wire with the little crimp squeezes into the back side of the connector housing, you just push it in & it will click into place. Other piece of wire that has the same color as the one you just crimped will be used on the opposite connector. This process for each wire will be done until you get an even match, color for color, if you make up the male & female connector the wire colors should match up also, directly across from each other. It isn’t all that difficult but looks intimidating, the good thing is it cost a mere 5 or 6 bucks for the whole set-up, you can buy extra male/female crimp clips in case you mess up a few. When the two are connected, they should look something like this from the side.

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.harwin.com/connectors/power/powerw2w.asp
or

http://www.jst-mfg.com/c00sea/SearchIchiran11.html

 

[Scooterman]

These wire crimps can be installed with your everyday wire strippers that have the built in crimper in the handle. The wire should be skinned back about 1/4" to 3/8", the little crimp may have what looks like wings on the back end, which these are crimped on the wire insulations itself, this is used to make a stronger connection.

I hope this answers your question, and I hope this is enough to serve your needs, finding these connectors aren't so easy, Radio shack may have something of the sorts, now that you have an idea what is required. All in all if you can get a factory extension cable made up, it would be nice but these usually come at a price around $30 to $40 moheeakers! :eek2:
Any more questions are welcome, I still intend on adding a lighting section with more practical wiring that may also help some.

 

[mattseattle]

Molex connectors

also I am sure Fry's Electronics (store in Renton) would carry them. I am also sure if Radio Shack doesn't have them in stock they could order them for you. I've used Molex connectors in the past for my canopy wiring and it works well. You are limited to a 4 wire on each side type of connection though. Each connector is about .35 cents and I'll attach a picture of them so you can get an idea.

I found a place online you can order them from at .35 a piece. Don't forget you need the male and female sides.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mamoco.html

 

[Fly n Reef]

Hey Scooterman,
Thanks for the details it makes more sense now. I think I can do it and will start to shop for the parts and will update when I find out who has them locally, or not.

Matt I will check out Fry's too to see what they offer, good suggestion. Only problem with Fry's is that you can't just get in and out of there with just one thing. Oh too many things to
wish for.

Karen

 

[Scooterman]

It would seem that you could find information on these type connectors but for some reason suppliers rather they make the customized cables instead, now go figure.

 

[Ed Hahn]

Can you imagine a computer running your lights and pumps? That is what I am seeing more and more of lately. I hear of programs like X10 and Firecracker running moon lights, Lights, pumps to the lunar cycles. I love this great hobby! There will be a Saltwater Aquarium in the Tri-city Herald Sunday that is a example of this.

 

[Scooterman]

Not imagine, computers are running them. Even the basic controller has programmable functions driven by a processor. Eventually I plan on having a computer dedicated to just my tank, with the programming software & maybe a small PLC for total control, & monitoring.

 

[Ed Hahn]

The hobbyist is trying to become more and more to have a system that is independent. I want to learn more about this. I want to do this eventually. I would like to know the pros and cons?

 

[Scooterman]

ahhh, totally automated system, that you don't have to worry about on a daily basis but still will need regular cleaning of equipment. On some levels I think this can & is done but this would be another great topic of the week maybe?

 

[NaH2O]

Scott....this may seem like a silly question, but how often should I check on wiring? Is this something to just add to a maintenance routine....check cords and connections monthly, every couple of months, etc?

 

[Scooterman]

Not a silly question at all, think about salt & what it can do to anything metallic, add oxygen to the equation & you have corrosion. Any exposed wiring should be kept cleaned from corrosion, dust etc. A dry cloth can go a long way, wipe your heat sinks on your ballast, check your end caps, look at all connections, wires with connectors, look for dry rotten end-caps, yes these will get frail , crack & eventually fall apart. Usually we have problems caused by any one of these factors, because hey they went two years with absolutely no problems, & today one of the end-caps caught fire. Keeping your equipment dust free, salt creep free & a regular visual inspection helps in more ways than one. Heat destroys most anything, it also prevents maximum efficiency, if kept clean this will extend the life also. If you decide to do some house cleaning, take caution, turn off equipment & up-plug completely removing it from electricity, never use water, liquid cleaners etc, in most cases, a wipe is all that is required (hey did I just repeat myself?)! How often, I'd say a good visual inspection once a month, on occasion each year un-plug physically inspect plugs, adapters, wire connections, etc..when you replace your bulbs is a great time for that. If you have a GFCI, push the test button also at this time, preventative maintenance is as key with electronic equipment as your pumps. When you clean your pumps, here is another fine example to inspect, if your pump goes underwater, check your cords, make sure they are still flexible, no cracks, good solid wire, wipe it clean again with a dry cloth, also internal & external pump housings, need a close inspection under good lighting, it needs to be cleaned thoroughly, no cracks whatsoever. Do not try to repair such cracks etc. relatively, submersible pumps are cheap, replace it, these pumps are only good for a few years, not like external pumps where you can replace brushes, & bearings so they can last years on.

this is a message from you good housekeeping association...me LOL!

 

[Scooterman]

A little on automation...

Below is a few controller that can specifically control a number of systems for the aquarist, plug in a PC & away you go, you can even monitor your system over the internet, even as far as actually view it live. Money is the only limiting factor here. I though I'd throw in a few teaser.

AquaDyne Octopus 3000 Controller & Monitor Features:· 2 x 16 Character LCD display · 3-key touch-pad data entry · H20/S Software for pH, ORP, Temp, and Conductivity Monitoring & Control · One Digitial Input (Alarm Only) · FLASH memory for easy upgrades · Password protection · External Power Supply · 4-Channel Lighting · Wave Maker · Local Alarms · AquaWeb SE for Win95 · Remote Pager Alarm · 16-Channel Lighting · 7 Day Data Logging


Duo-ORpH Aquarium Controller for pH and mV (ORP)

Dual monitoring of pH and ORP in large LED display and single control of either pH or ORP. Highly accurate. · Digital pH-ORP controller with large size LED display for easy reading. · High input impedance avoid measuring error. · Built in SLOPE and CAL. adjust knob, easy for single point or two points pH calibration. · "ON - OFF" control, the relay "ON" when measuring value is above the set point for pH. · And the relay "ON" when measuring value is below the set point for ORP. · Front LED lamp indicate when relay "ON". The Duo-ORpH Controller is probably the least expensive dual controller on the market today. But don't be fooled by its price, it is extremely accurate. It does not have those bell & whistle features which you may not need. Nor do you have to read a novel-thick of instruction booklet to study the Solar & Lunar phases. Its control is very straightforward indeed. Buy either the pH or ORP probe (or both) for various applications. With the electrodes in place, it can monitor both the pH and ORP readings at all times while controlling either the pH- or ORP-related devices. If one needs only a pH controller, just buy the pH electrode with our controllers, and vice versa for the ORP application.· For Freshwater Aquarist - Get the Duo-ORpH Controller + Refillable Electrode to control CO2 system · For Marine Fish Aquarist - Get the Duo-ORpH Controller + Refillable pH & ORP Electrodes to control ozonizer and monitor tank pH · For Reef Aquarist - Get the Duo-ORpH Controller + Refillable pH & ORP Electrodes to control kalkreaktor and monitor ORP
Neptune Systems Aquarium Controller & Monitor (AquaController) for pH, mV (ORP) and Temperature

NSDLX Neptune Systems AquaController II Deluxe Package- includes back-lit display complete ORP monitor & control, temperature monitor & control, & pH monitor & control, 5 CM466 control modules, 1 lamp module, 1 alarm module, 1 control interface hardware, 5 sets of pH calibration solution, Aquanotes v3, and serial cable for PC
Neptune Systems AquaController II Combo 1 Package- , 2 CM466 control modules 1 IM513 control interface, 1 temperature probe, 1 standard grade pH probe, and 1 standard grade ORP probe.This package can be upgraded to include lab grade probes and/or a backlit AquaController II. With this configuration pH, temperature, and ORP can be monitored, and any two devices can be controlled. If you wish to control more than 2 devices, then 1 control module for each appliance than you wish to turn on or off independently is required