DIY "LED" build "Linear Design"

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Katchupoy

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Hello to all,

For months now, I have been wanting, reading, planning to phase out my current 4 year old T5 bulbs to LED. And I believe, I have reach to a point that Im going to make one for my 75. Im not going to replace all my T5 all at once, but will be replacing them strip by strip... Right now I have 4x39 and 2x54

I will try to make it as simple as possible and to make it as clear as possible also for those people who also want to make one for their tanks. So if you have any questions, fire away, and i will try my best to answer them...

Disclaimer: Im not an expert, and Im as lost as you. Never did this before, so we will try to ask the people who already did this kind of project.

Here are some of the references...

Taqpol's detailed step by step build.

Fragman's show and tell build

Moovinfast's DIY Led Build...

100 dollar DIY LED supplement (another forum)

also if you need more further reading, you can jump to the gigantic thread on another forum...
Here is the concise version.
Summarized by Fishman, scroll down the middle/bottom part.

So with all of that taken care of, lets move forward.
 
So here is the current setup.

75G glass
4x39 watt T5 (3 Blue, 1 Fiji)
2x54 watt T5 (2 Blue) (2 hrs on)

FULLSHOT_2010-12_T5HOX4.jpg


Im planning on removing the 2x54 watt T5 to save on electricity.





Here is the DIY Kit that i bought.
24 Ultra Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers (Rapidled)

I chose the dimmable so I have flexibility on acclimatize my corals and for the price difference compared to the non-dimmable, I decided to do the other.

Also, I selected the Mean Well ELN-60-48D for analog input since im not going to do arduinio or dusk or dawn effect. Maybe in the future.

Selected also the 60 degree optics. To be honest I might not need this since my lights will be close to the water. Maybe for added protection on water splash.

Selected also the thermal adhesive/paste so i dont have to screw them down to the heatsink. I dont have access to drill press.
 
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We really need one of these threads, thanks. The more details the better. Maybe we can turn it into a workshop if you dont mind.

Don
 
We really need one of these threads, thanks. The more details the better. Maybe we can turn it into a workshop if you dont mind.

Don

Don, I dont know what you meant by work shop... But if I can help, please do.... i will do my best.
 
one thing i have heard, is that if your going to do dimmable LED's... you want to do it with PWM instead of voltage, which is what i think your meanwell driver is dimming with, but i dont know for sure. im not an electrician, so i cant explain it, but this is what i have read/heard LED pro's say. the voltage based dimming will decrease the longevity of the LED's. maybe an electrician can explain?
 
Don, I dont know what you meant by work shop... But if I can help, please do.... i will do my best.

We have workshop section. After the project is completed I copy the thread to that section leaving the origonal. Then I edit out all the chat leaving a clean build thread so that folks can use it just for reference.

Don
 
Skimer, here is what i have read. There is no actual difference between the P (pwm) and D (analog) models of meanwell, except on how you want it controlled. The signal coming from these source ie, PWM or analog 10 volts has no direct connection to any of the LED. They are fully isolated from the LED. They just tell the drivers (meanwell) how dim or bright you want it to be. We are talking about Milliamps of signal, as in tiny. As long as you are not above the recommended control voltage on the dimming part, you will be ok.

Or you maybe right. I will keep reading... Thanks for the heads up. Im sure that if you go the PWM side then you can still use analog source to control them like what Taqpol used on his. I just dont have the courage to go Arduinio... not that good yet... lol.
 
Cesar, I'll be following along as well. Tired of waiting for my chinese direct LED's to arrive so am planning to build my own also. Linear seems to be best in my application also as eventually would like to have 6-8 circuits to be independantly controlled/timed. I'm considering front to back linear strips allowing me to have actual east-to-west dawn/dusk light staggering. I could do this w/o using the more expensive dimable drivers also. I have plenty of 1x1 aluminium chanel to work with so just need to bump up my soldering skills.

Todd
 
Todd, thats an interesting idea, from left to right... its like cloud passes by, and you see lights going out from side to side... or maybe the sun rises from the east then gradually setting at the other side of the tank... I like it....

Well in my case, my linear approach is so that i can replace one strip/s of T5 at a time. Since T5's runs by pair so I will replace it two at a time. Hope it works.

Todd, if the price of these premium LED's are a bit tough right now, then the next best thing is Steve's LEDs. He claim that his is comparable to the premium ones and he sells it cheaper, but not as cheap as ones on Ebay. Im not saying its bad, or good or better or equal than the premium ones, since I havent compared them side by side personally and I havent seen any par reading on these leds compared to CREE's, so who knows, maybe they are equal like he says it is.
 
Today, I received my parcel...

_DSCF2252.jpg


_DSCF2256.jpg


this what XR-E looks like, and they are very very small. This is crazy... all those light coming from this small source
_DSCF2262.jpg


And the XP-G R5 is even smaller.... what the ?
_DSCF2265.jpg


Interesting, this one doesnt have any branding at all. How do I know Im getting the real one?
_DSCF2269.jpg


Well thats it for now. I need to find my aluminum strip, angle, square, or whatever I can find cheap.
 
Yes, as a natural east to west sunrise/sunset ie; most eastern strip on/off at 7:30 am-6:30pm, next @ 7:45-6:45, next @ 8:00-7:00, next @ 8:15-7:15 and so on...been thinking about this for awhile :eek2:
Cesar, I have plenty of aluminium 'C' channel 1"x1" x 1/8". Just let me know if your intersted I could easily cut you some to length. Price = just show me what/how you build it and when your done what you would have done differently :lol:

Todd
 
Oh ok, I will take you on that one. Right now, I just need 2 pcs of 4' length, I've been looking everywhere but no 1" channel. Anything bigger than 1"? Super thanks, you are so kind... I will pm you on how we will hook up....
 
Cesar, also as far as LED chips, lamps, bulbs and diodes go very few actual manufacturers and many labels. The Chinese direct manufacturer (Worlds largest) I am hoping to import from one day produces for many many different companies (to thier specifications) much like the electronics, battery or tire industry. Cree has a great name but highly doubt that they actually manufacture them.

Todd
 
Come on Mark... just go for it. Or maybe we should have a North Sound Reefers workshop and build them as a team :idea::D

Todd
 
i kno, rite??... i understand circuts pretty basically, but have never soldered/welded before,
i know kits like what caesar got pretty much do everthing but hold your hand and do it for you.
...and i have a little 10x10 rimless cube that needs a light fixture...
i could prolly build a sweet pico LED fixture for like $75...
i also want to play around with some red and green or maybe some rgb leds for color..
i was thinking a couple/few of these would be interesting for color on a little pico like what i got..
DealExtreme: $16.90 E27 3W 110-Lumen 6500K RGB Multicolored IR Remote Control Light Bulb (AC 85~265V)
 
Hey Mark I have a roll of RGB ribbon w/ remote you are welcome to play with/have for your Pico.

Cesar, if you can make it up to our North Sound Reefers get together at Shawn O'Donnells tomorrow night I could cut you a couple 48" pcs of channel and bring along.

Todd
 
OOOhhhh very tempting... But im going to my daughters concert tomorrow night. Dont cut it yet, keep it for now, Im checking some scrap yard here and if all fails, i will drive up there....

Hey Mark, Let me know If I can help or something. dont worry, Im also unreliable when it comes to soldering.
Pico 10x10 tank? You can probably buy those par38 bulb or something for $99 bucks?

But with that 99 bucks you can have 12 bulb setup... If you are not really picky... then you can do Steves Leds which is like a third of the price.

I just wish we have access to quantum par meter so I can really tell if this project is worth it or not.
 
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