DIY "LED" build "Linear Design"

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Im sorry people for the delay. I still need to source 12 volt power supply and some 5k potentiometers.
A good source for scrap stuff like these are thru RE-PC (Recycled PC). There is one in Tukwila and one in Dearborn, Seattle.
 
Hey Mark I have a roll of RGB ribbon w/ remote you are welcome to play with/have for your Pico.

hey thats mighty kind of you... :)
the reason i picked the one i posted is because they had a k of 6500 when all three are on making white, with 110 lumens.
at least somewhat useable to corals in a 10x10 cube. im also curiuos if white produced via 3 colored leds if going to have different spectral properties from a normal single white led. also curious where i can get uv leds...
 
OOOhhhh very tempting... But im going to my daughters concert tomorrow night. Dont cut it yet, keep it for now, Im checking some scrap yard here and if all fails, i will drive up there....

Hey Mark, Let me know If I can help or something. dont worry, Im also unreliable when it comes to soldering.
Pico 10x10 tank? You can probably buy those par38 bulb or something for $99 bucks?

But with that 99 bucks you can have 12 bulb setup... If you are not really picky... then you can do Steves Leds which is like a third of the price.

I just wish we have access to quantum par meter so I can really tell if this project is worth it or not.

i already have 3 panorama 12w led modules, i could easily just slap one or 2 over the 10x10, but they are 12" so look kinda "large"
hence the desire to make a small one. :) thanks for both u guy's help...
 
Good thing we have a solder tech in the house. IF you guys need help I can do it for you. It is pretty simple so I would rather show you how to do it on a few pieces. Then you can take off from there. If help is needed let me know.
 
Reminder to all who are going to do similar project like mine, specially if you are using Mean Well drivers, whether it is dimmable or not. You have to adjust the internal pot.

This is really really important. Adjust the internal pot.

You will need to remove 4 screws on the driver.
_DSCF2301.jpg


Be careful to crack it open, its really hard (in my case) to remove it. There are two notches on the center of both sides that locks the cover from the bottom part.
_DSCF2303.jpg


On the DC side, or where the big metal part is located, you will see a white plastic screw.
_DSCF2306.jpg


You have to turn this counter clockwise. Remember that this does not turn 360 degrees. If you turn it carefully counter clockwise then you will notice that it stops to a certain degree.

We are not sure what the current setting is right now thats why we are trying to make sure that we start at a very low current (amps) in order not to damage the LED's. And the only way to adjust it in the correct position is by using a digital multimeter (we will do this later).

When your done adjusting it counter clockwise, then do not put back the cover yet. We will need to readjust it again once we connected our LED's in series later.

Remember, dont rush yourself. Dont try to connect one or two LED's with this driver to test it if it runs or not. There is a minimum volts that these runs and in my case for the 48D, it runs 24 to 48 volts, or 8 to 12 LEDs. The best way to test it thru AA batteries. I will show it to you later.

So if you are in a tight budget, then you can use the (non-dimmable) mean well driver and run 8 LED's in series. Then if you are even in a tighter budget, then you can use Steves LEDs. The idea here is to get our feet wet and see if this is good enough as a supplement or even as our main light.

Hope Im not confusing all of you.
 
Here is the basic wiring diagram that I will use as guide. I borrowed this image from another forum.

LEDToDimwellSeriesWiring.png


Pay attention to the number of wires and corresponding color.

On the AC side, there is polarity or postive/negative. So you can put it either way on a plug. Unfortunately, it does not have a ground wire.
 
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I am really going to follow this thread. I have a new tank that I am starting to plan lighting on and really want to go LED. I also really like the "east to west" concept mentioned above and plan on implementing it.
 
Hello to all,

I apologize for the delay in my update regarding this project. Its been busy with work, family, and up coming holiday.

Here is the update.

I ended up using a 1"x1" square aluminum tube. Tried to find C chanel but only found 1/2". I was about to use 1.5"x1.5" angle bar but guessed that the 1" tube will have more material compared to angle for the same price. Remember that the Cree Star is about 20mm diameter. And a 1" tube has 25mm surface area on each side.

2010-12-19-A.jpg
 
LED spacings and dimensions.

So here is a SketchUP model showing LED spacings.

2010-12-19-B.jpg


Hmmm, that did not turned up well. Its 3.5" between LED and on the center, it is 4" spacing. This is because of the brace on the center of the tank.
I can really go with 3" spacing and then bigger spacing on the center, just worried that I might have a noticeable shadow spot on the center. Either way, we can always adjust it in the future.

2010-12-19-C.jpg
 
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Thanks Krish,

I dont know if I mentioned it already that with the package, I bought 60 degree optical lenses. So I have been playing around with SketchUP or SU, to determine if my 3.5" dimensions will work with my tank which is a 75 gallon.

so here are some images showing the 60 degree lenses.

These are at 12" above the water line and 3 inches between strips.
2010-12-20-A.jpg


Another view with the same configurations.
2010-12-20-B.jpg


Here you can see the scope of the cone.
2010-12-20-C.jpg
 
Now lets see 9" from water

Now what if we lower it to see more par. Lets say 9"

Here is the same angle...
2010-12-20-D.jpg


and another...
2010-12-20-E.jpg


I am worried that with 3" spacing between strips that Im not covering the front and back area of the tank.... some people will probably like that so that less algae grows on your glass and all the light are focused on the corals...

But what if we space the strips 5"...
2010-12-20-F.jpg


What do you think??? do you think its better?
 
Hey Cesar, very cool sketch program do you have a link or info to it, I'd love to work up my lighting to to tank specs of 60x24x20 before I start. Can you please show again with 5" seperation and 4-6" from water surface as typically you would not have anything needing any light at top back or front. Since I have just a few corals that really like white light I'm thinking mostly using 60* or 80* optics on mixed blue/white and having a few key 40* optics on 8K directly above my Pink Stylo, Yellow Fiji and Lobophytum. May also do the same in 460nm for clams, plus if I mount them as close to front as posible and angle back towards clams I'd change the refraction angle a bit and add even more POP to there colors hmmm....

Todd
 
Todd, here is the program. Its called Google Sketchup and you can get it for free.
Google SketchUp

This is a very simple and easy to use program. If you have questions, just ask away.

Here is the video tutorial.
Training Videos

And here is where you download all those models if you dont want to create one.
3dwarehouse Also owned by google.
 
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