Do i need a ro/di system?

[cbates]

Hey guys I got another question. I'm excited to say I confirmed buying a 90 gallon saltwater tank today and I'm debating on if I need a ro/di system or just a ro system now. I've tried to read up but I need your guys opinion.i Have a 29 gallon reef biocube and then the new 90 gallon fish only tank. So I'm wondering if I can just get a ro system and use different salts between the reef and fish tank. The ro system says it will take 95% to 98% of the stuff it of the water, is the other 5 to 2% necessary?

 

[N1Husker]

I think it depends on your incoming water quality, if your TDS is low with incoming water, then RO would probably okay. I know some reefers who have low TDS like Bothell, and they have around a 25 reading and they only run Ro systems. I have around 85 here in Renton and feel I need an RODI to totally clean my water. You want it at 0 so when you add salt mix it brings it to the correct levels. Bulk Reef Supply have nice 4 stage units for about what others charge for an RO unit only. I got a 5 stage from them for $199. They are very reasonable.

 

[dailydriven911]

I have a brs 4 stage with brand new cartridges if interested for $100

 

[NanaReefer]

Without a doubt, get the RO/DI. Not only for resale value but especially for simple peace of mind

 

[N1Husker]

I have a brs 4 stage with brand new cartridges if interested for $100

Now that's a great deal. cbates, that is the one to grab

 

[dnjan]

Without a doubt, get the RO/DI. Not only for resale value but especially for simple peace of mind

If the input TDS is high, then I would agree. However, many places in the Pacific Northwest have tapwater TDS of 30 or less.
For those situations, RO is fine.

 

[NanaReefer]

Given a choice of .0 TDS or 30 TDS going into your tank, 30 is fine? Why settle for 30 when you can have .0?

 

[rainydave]

I ran with just an 3 stage RO unit (under the sink for drinking water) when I had my BC8 & BC29. When I moved up to a 40 breeder I bought a dedicated 5 stage RO/DI unit. I had an inline TDS meter that showed the water after the RO/before the DI at 0 TDS. I now have a 4 stage RO/DI unit. The water after the RO/before the DI is at 1 or 2 TDS.
So, if your water is decent to start with you could get away with an RO only unit...but the DI would give you that extra step of purification.

 

[extremecoral]

I remember there is a video on Youtube explains whether or not the RO unit or RO/DI unit is good for you.

 

[N1Husker]

I think the DI polishes the water after it comes out of the RO membrane. It will remove that last little percentage of TDS that will give you a healthier tank. I'm not saying if you have 30 or less then you can use that water, it should still be filtered to remove the chlorine and bring that water into a pure stage before mixing it with salt or using it as top off. For the small amount of money it would cost to add the final DI stage on, why not go for it. It will just make you tank healthier.

 

[Derbird]

If it is possibe to get the DI I personaly would. I didn't at first to save on costs. My well water tested at 20 TDS so I was good to go. Come the dry season my tank just didn't look right and I had lost several SPS and my prized wellso brain was diying. I tested my water again and the TDS read 160 :scared:. I now have a three stage with DI.

 

[trido]

Given a choice of .0 TDS or 30 TDS going into your tank, 30 is fine? Why settle for 30 when you can have .0?

In most of the Seattle area our water is very clean as stated above. I've gone months only using a carbon filter and have brought my water from 28 down to 1 TDS. I also filled my 300 Gallon system with only a double DI cartridge and had a TDS of 0 for all of the initial fill.

Having said that, I highly recommend a 4-5 stage RO/DI filter for any reef tank no matter where you are in the world. I am currently using a 5 stage as I type this.

 

[Holygral]

I ran with just an 3 stage RO unit (under the sink for drinking water) when I had my BC8 & BC29. When I moved up to a 40 breeder I bought a dedicated 5 stage RO/DI unit. I had an inline TDS meter that showed the water after the RO/before the DI at 0 TDS. I now have a 4 stage RO/DI unit. The water after the RO/before the DI is at 1 or 2 TDS.
So, if your water is decent to start with you could get away with an RO only unit...but the DI would give you that extra step of purification.

Just keep in mind that the inline tds meters do not have a temperature compensator in them, so you results will be off, mine has a inline and I also have a hand held, and the inline can be off 2- 5 ppm's even after setting it to match the hand help, it will still be off the nextime

 

[doug onion]

Hey daisydriven911 i dnt wanna step on toes but if cbates dnt want ur ro/di system. I would take it i have a 90 and im having trouble with my water so im trying to get my tank right. Im on a tight budget but it would b better than watching more things go dwn hill. Let me knw if cbates takes that or not. I would be intrested in that then. Thanks the onion

 

[rainydave]

Just keep in mind that the inline tds meters do not have a temperature compensator in them, so you results will be off, mine has a inline and I also have a hand held, and the inline can be off 2- 5 ppm's even after setting it to match the hand help, it will still be off the nextime

I check the water in the barrel with a handheld meter and it's 0. So, in the end...that's what I'm looking for.

 

[cbates]

Hey Doug onion my girlfriend heard me talking about getting a ro/di system and she actually picked me up one last night so I'm mo longer in need of the on from daisydriven911. I can pm him and confirm with him that I don't need it anymore

 

[dnjan]

Given a choice of .0 TDS or 30 TDS going into your tank, 30 is fine? Why settle for 30 when you can have .0?

???
I thought the original question was RO only or RODI.
I run an RO-only, and turn my 30 TDS input into 0 TDS output.

 

[N1Husker]

I check the water in the barrel with a handheld meter and it's 0. So, in the end...that's what I'm looking for.

Yeah, that's the way I have mine. Kirk (NC2WA), told me that I should have both to keep track of the waters TDS. I have my handheld TDS meter right with my RODI unit and check it.

 

[N1Husker]

???
I thought the original question was RO only or RODI.
I run an RO-only, and turn my 30 TDS input into 0 TDS output.

I was using an API Water Filter for well over a year, which was an RO unit only, but the filters were costing too much. I was buying them at Drs. Foster and Smith, they were the cheapest. I also was getting 0 TDS, but figured up the cost and I figured it would the RO/DI would pay for itself in a little over a year.

 

[dnjan]

I was using an API Water Filter for well over a year, which was an RO unit only, but the filters were costing too much. I was buying them at Drs. Foster and Smith, they were the cheapest. I also was getting 0 TDS, but figured up the cost and I figured it would the RO/DI would pay for itself in a little over a year.

The particle filter and the carbon filter were costing that much? I assume that new RO/DI unit just uses cheaper particle and carbon filters.