Does it matter what brand carbon you run?

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Damsel13

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Hi Everyone,

I know this has been asked countless times before but I being the computer whiz that I am (not) I couldn't find any references to what is the best brand or type of carbon to use for general purposes.
Could someone please help me with this? Does it really matter if I get the brand in the home sealed bags (no name) for a lot cheaper at my neighborhood fish store instead of a particular brand? And if it does which brands are considered best? I think I remember Boomer discussing this in a thread awhile back but sorry, I couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance for your comments and help

Debbie
 
Hi Everyone,

I know this has been asked countless times before but I being the computer whiz that I am (not) I couldn't find any references to what is the best brand or type of carbon to use for general purposes.
Could someone please help me with this? Does it really matter if I get the brand in the home sealed bags (no name) for a lot cheaper at my neighborhood fish store instead of a particular brand? And if it does which brands are considered best? I think I remember Boomer discussing this in a thread awhile back but sorry, I couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance for your comments and help

Debbie

I got a no name bag of carbon from friend.....I really like it 'cause they are pellets, not messy. The other carbon I bought is like crush corals, super messy! I put mine in a fine mesh bag.
 
I don't know if the brand matters, but how you run it can. Run it in a media reactor if you can.
 
Yeah I think Boomer and maybe DonW ir something... I believe most cheap fishstore carbons are made actually for air filtration. I cant remember what the difference is between them, but carbon for filtering water is different. Filterguys or something like that..... I think thats where you can get carbon for water.
 
carbon is still carbon no matter the brand. I like chemipure because it has multiple chemicals including carbon and does an excellent job.
 
Hello Debbie,
Yes it really matters what brand you use there are some out there that are pretty much useless and some that are quite good but over priced (meaning you can get the same quality for less money). Others can change the PH and others can leach phosphate into you aquarium. Check with Boomer, he used to collect the stuff and can tell you what the differences are, how much to use, and exactly what may result with some brands. The manufacturing process has changed over the years resulting in a wider range of quality than in the past. He may even recommend a brand ;)

HTH,
Kevin
 
Here's what I found from Boomer doing a simple search in his forum:

Carbons are designed and manufactured for different purposes, there are more than 100 kinds of them. Almost all revolve around LP and and VP operation. They are dependant on the original raw material, i.e., bitum, coconut shell, wood, Lignite etc and the grain size and shape. Larger grain sizes are for VP and smaller for LP.

Bitum can be used for either, so it mostly a grain size thing. CS is mostly for VP and Wood and Lignite are mostly for LP. Large pellets, like the Kent, were designed for VP operation and especially pellet carbons. It is no that they don't work they will, they just are not very efficient. Kent's pellet carbon is just a selling gimmick and that is all it is.


Most carbon from the actual manufacture come with a data sheet or you can get one. That data sheet and its carbon parameters. i.e., Iodine #, Molasses #, mesh size, ash etc, etc, tell all about that carbon.

What is the deal with grain size ? Air has little density or mass and is a "gas" and is easily diverted, such would be the case with small grain size, as the air finds a way around the carbon more. Water is much more dense, with more mass, so it is not as easily diverted, thus smaller grain size.

We want to try to stay a least 8 mesh or smaller. Meaning 12 mesh is smaller in grain size than 8 mesh. 8 mesh = 2.38 mm. For us, it is quite often smaller than 10 mesh. In general for LP the smaller the grain size the better it is. However, when it gets to small it becomes very user unfriendly. Imagine a carbon that is 100 mesh or 0.149 mm. About the smallest we go for our application is 12-40 mesh. Meaning the carbon has a range in grain size of 12- 40 mesh and most prefer more like 12-20 mesh or even 10 -20 mesh.

And this:
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24720&highlight=activated+carbon

HTH,
Kevin
 

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