---->DonW

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burning2nd

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whats up.... ive bin thinking about this for some time now... since like last week i think when you said that..

why do you think the reef keeper 2 isnt good for maintaining temp?

mine seems to be doing the job just fine.... have my upper and lower set. have my fan set to come on if it gets to hot... everything is working great...

what was your reason for that comment?
 
Go over to the Neptune or the DA forums on RC. Just take a look at how many temp probe issues you will find in just the first few pages. Aquarium controlers have become fairly inexpensive, skimping on the probe are one way to keep the price down. Then take a look at how old and outdated technology behind controllers really is and what your really getting. I'll give you a hint, 30 + years, and there have been many improvements in electronic over the last 30 years but its cheaper to stick with the old.
I think youve had yours for what about a week now? A week is not any sort of a track record. Now go out and find as many complaints as you can concerning a real temp controller like the ranco. Other than not being pretty, I doubt you could search the web for weeks and come up with more than a handfull. Besides a eprom retention error I couldnt find any, and a eprom retension error wont kill your tank.

The new controllers are getting better and the technology is starting to step into this century but the entry level units are way behind. I guess there is nothing wrong with being behind as long as its dependable but as far as temp goes they are far from it.

Don
 
mines been up for almost a year now, no worries here! I just keep the probe calibrated, when I do a w/c I check it, and sometimes when I am testing water I check it also.

I know since I have now jinxed myself something will probably go wrong, but anyjoe, don't worry about it too much, just keep an eye on it. If you worry constantly you will give yourself a heart attack or end up hating your reef, so relax and just do your part by keeping the probe calibrated.

If you are really worried about it, toss a digital temp probe or thermometer in the sump for good measure, but keep in mind that one will swing on you a bit too over the course of a year or so.
 
mines been up for almost a year now, no worries here! I just keep the probe calibrated, when I do a w/c I check it, and sometimes when I am testing water I check it also.

I know since I have now jinxed myself something will probably go wrong, but anyjoe, don't worry about it too much, just keep an eye on it. If you worry constantly you will give yourself a heart attack or end up hating your reef, so relax and just do your part by keeping the probe calibrated.

If you are really worried about it, toss a digital temp probe or thermometer in the sump for good measure, but keep in mind that one will swing on you a bit too over the course of a year or so.

The problem with control probe failures is they fail high or they fail low. Meaning you will com home one day and it will read over 100 or below 30. If its below 30 you heaters will cook the tank. If its over 100 you will have no heat. No heat is probably better since we have hot pumps and lights to keep the tank warm. If you have a chiller its going to go into overtime an bring the temps down.
Drifting is something that really isnt a concern. All the extra thermometers are really doing nothing more than giving a false sense of security. If youve ever lost a reef due to a heater sticking on then your aware that it can happen in the few hours your at work. I think knowing that there are issues with a product and doing nothing to protect against those issues is not the answer.
I do think the makers need to stand up and correct the problems. We know it can be done, thats been proven time and time again by makers like ranco and johnson. Heck I'd even buy one if they would step up and fix such a simple problem, even if they charged a little extra for the better probes.

Don
 
man sounds like the local landfills are made of back to back bricked reefkeeper2s!!!!!!! roads and valleys paved with their faceplates!!!! Wemon and children running from their homes with enraged bricked out rk2's chasing them down like rabid dogs through fire and flames!

burning2nd: I cant find any instances of a bricked rk2 nuking a tank on google yet, still looking though.
 
right..... didnt really say what i was looking for... im not intrested in others peoples failure to check there equipment.... but i was more looking for a reason on why you say its not good...

new tech isnt always the best.. form follows function the probes are cheap and i already have one on the shelf.... 2 heaters.. both set at 81.. insures that they will not exceed. if one dies i will notice the other being on all the time.....

i was looking more for "i had it. it broke"

just wanna comment on how bad azz my won pro lcd was.....
 
These devices are really good at monitoring things. In the long run, no matter what you do, you can bet failures will happen. I don't as a rule rely completely on one system, I have several units where If failures happen we have something else that will hopefully prevent totally destruction. The old timers would always say get two heaters with half the power needed & run them together, this way one or the other fails your still in check & shouldn't destroy your tank. The only problem with that is getting them both to run when needed & not more one over the other, the Ranco controller is commercially built, HD relays, which is why they cost so darn much but failure is seldom with these, the ACII doesn't have that type quality mechanical parts in the unit. Why we have return pumps separate from CL,s or PH's or whatever same goes with lighting & everything else, even though you can go days without lights, so I'd not consider that critical. Chiller & pump or supply water to that chiller is something that is overlooked. If you loose water to it & it comes on, guess what? That is why they sell these $150 flow switches that most people don't get. The software & program is the easy part & will run smooth when done right, but your perpetuals like, the relays, probes etc as Don mentioned aren't the same. Yes they work well, year or two may be fine but If you come up with a loaded reef with expensive fish & corals, more so as they grow & gain value, the extra 200$ you could of spent, just cost you a potential few thousands. Ok, on small systems, I wouldn't go crazy like that, but your nice average size or larger systems yea.
At some point you can get carried away on all this also, so simple can be beneficial, cover your critical systems & let the others fail If there are problems, as long as the potential to crash your tank isn't there, don't worry about it.
 
So, a Ranco controller is the best quality for temp controller, I'm reading? Is that what you use/d, Don?

What about this same question applied to ph controllers? Is there a "best of breed" for these?
 
So, a Ranco controller is the best quality for temp controller, I'm reading? Is that what you use/d, Don?

What about this same question applied to ph controllers? Is there a "best of breed" for these?

I use a ranco but I'm switching to johnson for the additional features. I dont measure ph, its something that I dont believe is necessary. Ive tried most hobbiest ph meters and controllers. Even some higher end controllers and the results were essentially the same. IMO not worth even worrying about maintaining the probe.

Don
 
Don, can you expand on this Johnson unit...which model and where are you getting it? What type of features does it have?

Besides being blue instead of ugly tan it has a couple of cool features not found on the ranco.

It has fail mode selection. This means you select what you want to happen when and if the probe were to fail its self test.

For Example: With the ranco if it has a probe error it just shuts down and you have no heat even though you are using heaters with built in thermostats.

With the Johnson you can decide what will happen. So if the probe were to fail the self test you can have it turn the power on to the heaters so that the built in thermostats can take over the control and you still have heat. So basicly you get true redundancy.

There is also a switch mode. Meaning that simply closing a contact will allow you to change the set temp. I dont know how useful this would be but the fail mode feature is the real reason why I'm switching. I guess this could be used to change the temp for even another level of redundancy but I really havent put any real thought into it.

Make Sense
Don
 
Don - is it "old technology" you described earlier that is responsible for the Finnex heater controllers? Had two of those die before I came to my senses and spent the money on Ranco's.
 
Don - is it "old technology" you described earlier that is responsible for the Finnex heater controllers? Had two of those die before I came to my senses and spent the money on Ranco's.

:badgrin: No its just the controller itself. Heaters are just a pita, bimetal stats dont last very long and/or the elcheapo electronics in the Ti stats are just junk.
IMO heating is more of an industrial task especially when you concider the amperage draw, a task better left to a device thats made to withstand industrial conditions.

Don
 
I do not use a reefkeeper controller but I have been using Neptune controllers for about 5 years with no issues (two different models none of them have been used for 5 years strait) but I have several fail safes in place if the temperature probe fails or controller failure to prevent over heating or cooling of my tank. Here is a list of some of the step I have made. Again I’m not familiar with the reefkeeper so some things may not apply

1.) Set the heater it self to shut off at the maximum range your inhabitants can handle. I have mine set to 82, the reveres for a chiller.
2.) Use another thermometer preferable with an settable alarm to verify temperature (Probes can drift one way or the other overtime)
3.)On my aqua controllers by neptune I set a series of events for temperature issues here are a few examples other than the standard turn heater off and on and chiller off and on events.
If temp < > 2 degrees over set point sound alarm and send an e-mail
If temp < > 4 degrees over set point send another e-mail and turn off lights

I think you need to do what ever makes you feel comfortable and lets you sleep well at night and away from you tank for extended periods of time( I travel weekly and sometimes I’m away for weeks.)I have not have problems but I’m pretty lucky as well. The dedicated temp controllers are great at what they do they are not bulletproof either.

Good luck,
David
 
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someting like that..... i dont get away from the tank more then a day at the most.. maybe once a year.
Im not really worried.......
 

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