Elos 160XL set up

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

dragoneggs

dragoneggs

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2006
Messages
1,140
Location
Seabeck, WA
Well, finally going to get going on my new tank. I moved last year and had to tear down my 250gal acrylic island tank. This time I am going glass... and first class. Today... thanks to Eric at Veralte Aquatics and a couple of bro-in-laws, we moved in my new Elos 160XL tank. I have no idea on weight but it felt like 600+ lbs. Unfortunately no move in pictures... we were busy!

Outside dimensions are approx 63in by 31.5in by 23.5in tall. Wow what a beautiful rimless glass tank! From experience, I know this will be a long process but if you like to follow along with patience on this set up.. by my guest.

Here are first shots of tank on floor about where it's home will be. A couple of initial observations. Overflow box in right back corner is very small. Only 4.5in by 6in. Hope that will be sufficient.

Side glass is about 15mm thick. Bottom glass is about 30mm thick total laminated two layers. Notice the black sealant/adhesive lines on tank bottom. The black dots are adhesive 'spot welds'. The bottom glass is segmented and staggered. Bottom ply is actually 5 pieces and top ply is six pieces. Weird. Anyone else out there with a large Elos? Curious if this is standard practice?
 
dragoneggs said:
Well, finally going to get going on my new tank. I moved last year and had to tear down my 250gal acrylic island tank. This time I am going glass... and first class. Today... thanks to Eric at Veralte Aquatics and a couple of bro-in-laws, we moved in my new Elos 160XL tank. I have no idea on weight but it felt like 600+ lbs. Unfortunately no move in pictures... we were busy!

Outside dimensions are approx 63in by 31.5in by 23.5in tall. Wow what a beautiful rimless glass tank! From experience, I know this will be a long process but if you like to follow along with patience on this set up.. by my guest.

Here are first shots of tank on floor about where it's home will be. A couple of initial observations. Overflow box in right back corner is very small. Only 4.5in by 6in. Hope that will be sufficient.

Side glass is about 15mm thick. Bottom glass is about 30mm thick total laminated two layers. Notice the black sealant/adhesive lines on tank bottom. The black dots are adhesive 'spot welds'. The bottom glass is segmented and staggered. Bottom ply is actually 5 pieces and top ply is six pieces. Weird. Anyone else out there with a large Elos? Curious if this is standard practice?
Click to expand...

Enjoy your new tank. We love ours. The bottom glue job is standard, it's for strength.
 
Thanks for the plug M. and you know that the tank will be put together well; with all the best bells and whistles at an affordable price. We still have quite a bit of work to do before the water goes in, but in the end it will be something amazing for sure.. We might want to move this to either the Elos section or Members Showcase at some point, but for now we'll run with it here.

Thanks
Eric
 
Just an FYI. You've got the return nozzle backwards. The siphon break 90 should be the first piece connected to the return line plumbing at the overflow box.

The multi-piece bottom is standard on the larger tanks as it helps with any unwanted flexing. Also, 15mm is far better than most glass tank builders too. No need to go with thicker glass unless you really like splashing C notes around. This tank won't have a hint of bow to it.
 
Yah I know, just tossed the plumbing on there so he could see what it looked like. More than likely I'll make something of my own and get ride of the double 90 mess. :)
 
You could modify an Oceans Motions omni-flex nozzle or have him custom make you one. I also have the tap needed to thread the anti-siphon connection if you want to use it too.
 
dragoneggs said:
Yeah... no kidding. But the laminated design might make it much tougher.
Click to expand...

Using two pieces of glass (or acrylic) will allow the bottom to flex without cracking or shattering from the weight of the rocks / sand. That is why most acrylic manufacturers will use 1/2 sides and a 3/8 top with the larger tanks. The thicker it is the hard it is the less flex, the more chance it will crack, or shatter.
 
Bricky said:
Just an FYI. You've got the return nozzle backwards. The siphon break 90 should be the first piece connected to the return line plumbing at the overflow box.

The multi-piece bottom is standard on the larger tanks as it helps with any unwanted flexing. Also, 15mm is far better than most glass tank builders too. No need to go with thicker glass unless you really like splashing C notes around. This tank won't have a hint of bow to it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we are going to make a custom return and probably not even use that plumbing. I am still amazed at just how much more room i am going to have with the corner overflow instead of center island as before. The overflow box seems too small but I am planning to have zero CL and go with a couple Vortech MP40s to move the water. This way very little plumbing leaving/returning to display tank is necessary.
 
NanoReefer411 said:
I love the overflow. Nice and small. I also love the rimless look. Very nice. Are they very expensive?
Click to expand...

YES! Don't ask. But I plan on keeping this one for awhile. I went with glass instead of acrylic for two reasons. One... I can get away with less often glass wipe down and long term I expect less scratches. Two... absolutely love the rimless look not to mention again the easier maintenance!
 
Fishroom discovered!

Okay... discovery of my new 'Fish Room'! I'm pretty jazzed as I have decided to pull a bunch of stored crap out including a huge wine cooler that is currently not in use, out of a large basement closet. I found a perfect (in my mind) out-of-the-way space about 8ft long by 4ft deep! This area sits behind some bi-fold doors so I can close it up but still allow for some room breathing and hide it from my wife's eyes!

Now I get to design this room to be heart and brains of my system. Besides having a water supply because my hot water heater sits in the left corner...an unexpected bonus is I have a drain (4in black ABS) with a cap located a couple feet off the cement floor in the right corner. I want to connect to this drain for my water changes, etc. I am looking for suggestions on how best to tie into this drain. Should I put some kind of utility sink with P trap and figure out the fittings to connect to the large threaded plug? This drain is for the guest toilet/shower in the bathroom above. I am thinking the utility drain will be perfect as my skimmer will only be a couple feet away. I used to have to carry it across the living room and kitchen with you old set up!
 
NanoReefer411 said:
;-) I would never ask the price. Just wondering if they were expensive. They are beautiful tanks. I can't wait to see your fish room.
Click to expand...

No worries... unfortunately very expensive and I have blown my budget on the tank now that I decided to get a 160XL vs. the 120XL. But the difference is huge. A foot longer and 4in more depth which is important to me. Now I have to be patient because the $2K difference was suppose to cover getting pendant lighting and PH's . Fishroom will be a challenge only for the fact that I have to run a drain and return from my display tank and the routing through the floor, stairs to downstairs, etc will be a 'bitch'.
 
Mark,,,welcome back to bigger and better reef,,,yeah!!!
glad to see you back on the board again ,i am going tacking along your project here,,,,cheer ,,,:),,need some seeds in the future,,please let me know.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
Plans for setting up a new cube... thought of a waterfall aquascape..fish stock...
Replies
12
Views
4K
bronzefighter
B
akunochi
The complete DIY Sump workshop!
Replies
16
Views
3K
Thrawn
Thrawn

Latest posts

Back
Top