equipment
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ReefGeeker
Well-known member
I would say don't go cheap on the lighting and the skimmer, have an overflow, sump, correct size heater (300w?), and return pump of your desired flow (some like high flow some like low flow), 120-180 lbs LR, Dual reactor for gfo/carbon, RODI unit, 2 wp40 powerheads, and a lighted refugium with macro algae. Keep up on water changes 10% per week or 30% a month to start and adjust accordingly for bio-load and feeding habits. Just a general idea for you to start with without getting too specific.
NC2WA
Well-known member
Rayn,
The most two important pieces of equipment that ANY saltwater hobbyist should take the time to purchase and not go cheap on is:
1. Skimmer
2. Lights
The skimmer IMO is the brains of your tank and it will determine if you love or hate this hobby.
First, determine the bio load you plan on having in the tank (that is, fish, corals, etc.), then get a skimmer big enough to accommodate the load. For example, you have a 120 gallon tank..if you plan on having any type of tangs or angels, they typically are waste producers so the bio load will be more vs just having corals. If you do plan on having fish, I would get a skimmer that rates for at least 180 gallons.
Lights are in the same category as the skimmer..it will determine if you love or hate this hobby..get the wrong lights (or skimmer) or a cheap-o set, then algae bloom will manifest itself then instead of setting back and enjoying this hobby, you will be going to the LFS every weekend to combat these nuisance algae.
IMO, the goal to this hobby is NOT to tinker with it every hour of every day (aka the moron cycle), BUT to sit back and view the beauty in your tank..
<sorry for the sermon, but these are two things (as you can tell) I'm passionate about>
HTH
Kirk
The most two important pieces of equipment that ANY saltwater hobbyist should take the time to purchase and not go cheap on is:
1. Skimmer
2. Lights
The skimmer IMO is the brains of your tank and it will determine if you love or hate this hobby.
First, determine the bio load you plan on having in the tank (that is, fish, corals, etc.), then get a skimmer big enough to accommodate the load. For example, you have a 120 gallon tank..if you plan on having any type of tangs or angels, they typically are waste producers so the bio load will be more vs just having corals. If you do plan on having fish, I would get a skimmer that rates for at least 180 gallons.
Lights are in the same category as the skimmer..it will determine if you love or hate this hobby..get the wrong lights (or skimmer) or a cheap-o set, then algae bloom will manifest itself then instead of setting back and enjoying this hobby, you will be going to the LFS every weekend to combat these nuisance algae.
IMO, the goal to this hobby is NOT to tinker with it every hour of every day (aka the moron cycle), BUT to sit back and view the beauty in your tank..
<sorry for the sermon, but these are two things (as you can tell) I'm passionate about>
HTH
Kirk
I have a warner marine 180, but it needs a new pump. I have a dual MH setup and plan to add a dual T5 for actinic. I worry about heat with the MH though and may jump to ration or build my own led at some point .
Thanks for the tips, I seem to be on the same wave length as you two so far.
I already have everything you mentioned sitting ready for the tank reefgeeker, only difference is I don'trreally like the combined gfo/carbon so I have two singles. As fr returns I run dual there as well. If one fails I still have a second that should stay running till I fix the other.
Thanks for the tips, I seem to be on the same wave length as you two so far.
I already have everything you mentioned sitting ready for the tank reefgeeker, only difference is I don'trreally like the combined gfo/carbon so I have two singles. As fr returns I run dual there as well. If one fails I still have a second that should stay running till I fix the other.
mrlang1981
Member
I would definately recommend doing your research before you making any purchases. It's an expensive hobby and you don't wanna take shortcuts. Also patience is key. Make sure the systems is cycled and ready to go before adding inhabitants
NC2WA
Well-known member
Warner is a good skimmer
Peppie
Well-known member
Do Not Underestimate the the versatility of a good Controler to have fail-safes, Timers, top-offs, temp, probes. ect
Ichthys
Well-known member
So, this may sound strange, but I have another suggestion. First I give a +1 on everything that has already been said, lights, skimmer, and controller, I would never run a tank without a controller. I ran tanks for years without them, and after getting one, I dont know how I lived without it. To this list I would add a good quality RODI that produces more water per day than you think you will need.
...however....
I believe that a very well thought out saltwater mixing station water change station is one of the most important things you can have. It doesn't matter how good your lights, skimmer, reactors, etc etc are, if you neglect routine maintenance you have problems. And i have found the easier it is to do water changes and maintenance, the more likely you are to do them over the long haul. Sure when everything is bright and shiny and new you are all over it. But a year from now when the new baby comes, or its golf season, or other activities compete for your time and interest, it is very easy to slack off on maintenance. Then the tank turns into a green soupy stinky mess and the wife lists it on craigslist. lol
Seriously though, the better your water change system is, the better. My system is simple, yet efficient. I throw 2 ball valves and open the sump drain and 10 minutes later I have changed 30 gallons of saltwater without getting my hands wet. It is truly a beautiful thing.
Kirk put it best, the goal is to enjoy the hobby, not be a slave to it. The more automated and user friendly you make your maintenance, the more you will enjoy it.
...however....
I believe that a very well thought out saltwater mixing station water change station is one of the most important things you can have. It doesn't matter how good your lights, skimmer, reactors, etc etc are, if you neglect routine maintenance you have problems. And i have found the easier it is to do water changes and maintenance, the more likely you are to do them over the long haul. Sure when everything is bright and shiny and new you are all over it. But a year from now when the new baby comes, or its golf season, or other activities compete for your time and interest, it is very easy to slack off on maintenance. Then the tank turns into a green soupy stinky mess and the wife lists it on craigslist. lol
Seriously though, the better your water change system is, the better. My system is simple, yet efficient. I throw 2 ball valves and open the sump drain and 10 minutes later I have changed 30 gallons of saltwater without getting my hands wet. It is truly a beautiful thing.
Kirk put it best, the goal is to enjoy the hobby, not be a slave to it. The more automated and user friendly you make your maintenance, the more you will enjoy it.
NC2WA
Well-known member
well said.
and for the record I do have an automated water change system that can change 45 gallons of water in 10 mins with no lifting of a bucket.
Once again all very good points and all of help. Seems I have pretty much got everything you guys are listing except the auto water changer.
Let me throw m list up, see if there is anything else you guys think I should add or ungraded. I am going to give brands just cause skmetims a brand makes a huge difference.
Warner marine 180 skimmer, full apex, 1 brs gfo reactor, 1 two little fishies reactor the 150, dual Thompson MH hanging light now powered by Lumatek ballast up to 400 watt, dual corallife t5 for actinic. I also have a cheap UV, but I am thinking a better one needs to be plumbed in if I go with one. What I am missing is the return pump/s.
My standard fall back return is a Rio2500 . The aren't expensive and I can get them locally about three different places. But they aren't the most efficient. Being in the living room though whatever I get has to be quiet.
For a water change I don't know if I can automate it here. I am close on the 125 as it is right next to the bath. I drain 20 out of the sump, fill 20 out of my mixing tub. Ten minutes and I don't carry a bucket. RO/DI is 75 gpd and so far kept up with me.
Let me throw m list up, see if there is anything else you guys think I should add or ungraded. I am going to give brands just cause skmetims a brand makes a huge difference.
Warner marine 180 skimmer, full apex, 1 brs gfo reactor, 1 two little fishies reactor the 150, dual Thompson MH hanging light now powered by Lumatek ballast up to 400 watt, dual corallife t5 for actinic. I also have a cheap UV, but I am thinking a better one needs to be plumbed in if I go with one. What I am missing is the return pump/s.
My standard fall back return is a Rio2500 . The aren't expensive and I can get them locally about three different places. But they aren't the most efficient. Being in the living room though whatever I get has to be quiet.
For a water change I don't know if I can automate it here. I am close on the 125 as it is right next to the bath. I drain 20 out of the sump, fill 20 out of my mixing tub. Ten minutes and I don't carry a bucket. RO/DI is 75 gpd and so far kept up with me.
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2003
- Messages
- 2,935
I'll go a different route.....
What do you want to keep? That is the most important facet of setting up/designing your system and it will dictate what equipment you must have.
You want SPS? No problem. You will need high light intensity. High volume of water movement. Clean and stable water parameters, and some method of delivering/maintaining water chemistry to the needed levels. You will need a heater and possibly a chiller as well to keep the temp within proper parameters.
You want LPS? No problem. Lights don't need to be as intense, water movement doesn't need to be as much, (actually too much can be a problem), you will still need clean and stable water parameters, and will need to maintain temps within the desired levels.
You want softies? No problem. Again, lights don't need to be as intense and water movement doesn't need to be as intense, and additionally, you don't need to obsess with water quality as much as SPS or LPS, but it does need to be monitored/maintained.
You want Non-Photosynthetic? No problem. You'll still need good water parameters, but calcium isn't as big a deal. No need for expensive lights. Water movement doesn't have to be as intense. Your biggest issue will be finding/designing a good reliable method of delivering constant sources of food for your critters.
Want a cold water set up? No problem. You're going to find it similar to a Non-Photo set up except instead of a heater, you'll need to invest in a chiller.
You want Fish Only? Easiest yet. You need to maintain temps. Lights need to be what you require to see the fish. Water quality needs to be maintained at a base level, (when compared to invertebrate keeping). Water movement doesn't need to be that aggressive (for most species...tangs can be an exception) You should however invest in a QT tank for new arrivals, (Actually not a bad practice for any set up).
You can see how what you want to keep will dictate what you need to have. Figure that part out, and the rest will begin to sort itself out.
What do you want to keep? That is the most important facet of setting up/designing your system and it will dictate what equipment you must have.
You want SPS? No problem. You will need high light intensity. High volume of water movement. Clean and stable water parameters, and some method of delivering/maintaining water chemistry to the needed levels. You will need a heater and possibly a chiller as well to keep the temp within proper parameters.
You want LPS? No problem. Lights don't need to be as intense, water movement doesn't need to be as much, (actually too much can be a problem), you will still need clean and stable water parameters, and will need to maintain temps within the desired levels.
You want softies? No problem. Again, lights don't need to be as intense and water movement doesn't need to be as intense, and additionally, you don't need to obsess with water quality as much as SPS or LPS, but it does need to be monitored/maintained.
You want Non-Photosynthetic? No problem. You'll still need good water parameters, but calcium isn't as big a deal. No need for expensive lights. Water movement doesn't have to be as intense. Your biggest issue will be finding/designing a good reliable method of delivering constant sources of food for your critters.
Want a cold water set up? No problem. You're going to find it similar to a Non-Photo set up except instead of a heater, you'll need to invest in a chiller.
You want Fish Only? Easiest yet. You need to maintain temps. Lights need to be what you require to see the fish. Water quality needs to be maintained at a base level, (when compared to invertebrate keeping). Water movement doesn't need to be that aggressive (for most species...tangs can be an exception) You should however invest in a QT tank for new arrivals, (Actually not a bad practice for any set up).
You can see how what you want to keep will dictate what you need to have. Figure that part out, and the rest will begin to sort itself out.
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2003
- Messages
- 2,935
Auto water changers are a personal choice.
I use a couple of different 55 gallon barrels and 44 gallon Brute Trash cans I bought specifically for this purpose. The Brute's hold RO water. The drums hold mixed salt water.
My set up in my basement on the unfinished side, so water spills are a non issue.
I bought a python water changer a LOOOOOOONG time ago and use it to siphon water from the sump to the laundry room sink. If you decide to go with this as an option, price the python and then look for water bed filler hoses.....same thing, just different color fittings. The water bed version is usually less expensive IME.
I use a hand siphon to pull detritus out of my display and fill up about a 5 gallon bucket. It gets dumped in the sink.
For refills, I just use a separate submersible pump (Quiet One...model something or other I don't remember now) with a hose connected to it and pump water from the barrels to the sump. Low tech and requires some personal attention but its easy and inexpensive.
For RO top off, I use a liter meter 3.
Return pumps.....
I don't like the RIO's based solely on what I've read about them. Too many stories about failures causing serious issues.
I've used Mag drive pumps in the past......they always seem to be a heat generating monster that will eventually die at the most inopportune moment in a couple of years.
I've also used Iwaki's and Pan World pumps.
I'm sticking with the Pan World pumps. Near to the same power curves/capabilities of the Iwaki's but at about 1/3 less the price and power consumption.
Whatever return pump you buy, plumb it so that you can easily change it out at a moment's notice, (use unions and ball valves anywhere you think you might need them), and buy a back up. A back up allows you to rotate the pumps out for cleaning and also gives you a spare in the event of catastrophe.
tricksterya
Well-known member
Curious on your system. can you elaborate?
well said.
and for the record I do have an automated water change system that can change 45 gallons of water in 10 mins with no lifting of a bucket.
Going off what maxx. I would like the proverbial mixed reef. The sps up top to get the most light and flow, then lps down some. Softies would be a nice mix in there if they work in.
Fowlr and cold water I already have or am working on.
Fowlr and cold water I already have or am working on.
Ichthys
Well-known member
Just want to +1 Maxx's comment on unions. When I built my 90 I didn't use them and every time i wanted to change or clean something it was a MAJOR PITA. When I built my current 150 I used unions EVERYWHERE. Unions are your friends, a little money now saves headaches tomorrow. I have ball or gate vlves on everything, i can drop my UV, Return pump (GenX PS100), ATO, drains, everything out of my system easy as pie. The only thing not unioned that i wish was is the airline to my OBD skimmer. I have talked to Mike about this, hoping he incorporates it in his new skimmer design.
On your equip list, only comment is on the 2LF reactor. Are you using it for carbon? I do not like mine, hard to open and seal and clogs constantly. I have yet to find the "perfect" reactor.
On your equip list, only comment is on the 2LF reactor. Are you using it for carbon? I do not like mine, hard to open and seal and clogs constantly. I have yet to find the "perfect" reactor.
NC2WA
Well-known member
rayn,
just be aware Rio pumps are famous for electric shorts underwater...there are better pumps for the money that last longer and do not have the electrical problem.
just be aware Rio pumps are famous for electric shorts underwater...there are better pumps for the money that last longer and do not have the electrical problem.
jschulst
Well-known member
If you intend to purchase LED lights, go for the one that has a variety of colors. I used to get the 4ft strips (example: beamswork 54x1watts), they work fine, however I dislike the white to blue light ratio. More white make the water more yellow. Wished they came 50/50 combination. This time I took the plunge to buy the more expensive kind and love it!
Really! I have almost used them exclusively for years, just cause ease of getting them. Never had a short yet and only one pump has quit on me.
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