NaH2O
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2004
- Messages
- 8,568
charlyclown said:NaH2O: I have N. snails which remove everything that drops on my ¼ - ½’’ crushed coral. In addition, I have shrimps&crabs who anxiously wait for stuff to drop down.
My system is essentially BB, I added sand for aesthetics and because I have so much of it from my 55 g which I am breaking down currently.
Nassarius snails, shrimps and crabs have waste products, too.
You are right. There is no maintenance free system just yet although that is and should be the ultimate goal. However, I significantly decreased my maintenance work. I have to skimmer to take care of, no siphoning of the sand, and due to high flow, at least half of my live rocks do not need attention/cleaning anymore. And harvesting macro algae, that takes 10 seconds, tear it and throw it away once in about two weeks. About the mud, the manufacturer recommends replacing half of it every two years.
According to Leng Sy, a portion of the MM should be replaced every 18-24 months. Sue Truett (her tank was in the book Ultimate Reef Aquariums), had some issues with her MM. You can read about what she learned from Mike Paletta and Leng Sy in this thread: Scroll down to post #71 Let's Talk About ~Filtration Concepts~. The length of time the mud is viable is going to depend on bioload. I suspect using a skimmer with the ecosystem filtration will allow the bed to be viable for longer. The changing out of the mud, I feel, will also help keep it "fresh". I have a problem with the make-up of the mud....really high aluminum and iron (Miracle Mud Analysis).
Krish: You are right in that two systems are never alike. However, do not forget that I do not use a skimmer and I need my gunk to be removed from water. My (bio) balls seems to just aid doing just that. The lower half of the balls column are submerged in water which has not much flow (I have a 6’’ T – piece pipe). I drilled a few small holes in the pipe at the bottom, but I did that to prevent completely still water. I suppose these lower balls are in a rather anaerobic environment, thus aiding nitrate removal. I do monitor my nitrates twice a week, and I do 3% water changes every week. I had 5 ppm nitrates after I added the bioballs for 2 weeks, and then it went back to 0.
karl
I don't know why you all dismiss the possibility of my chaeto absorbing a good portion of my nitrates.
I think your mud is doing more for the nitrates than the chaeto. With the MM set-up, bioballs are put prior to the mud. This allows the nitrate water to go to the mud for denitrification. The fine particle size of the mud is great for this. Then, by using macro algaes, you get the export. Here is a quote on growth rates of different macros from another thread (Caulerpa Toxicity in Perspective):
mojoreef said:Collin you are calculating under the premise of taxifolia being 80x more toxic in regards to cyn. When in the wild with out competition it is closer to 25x. Also if their is no competition it can increase its cyn output by 42% This will change the numbers a tad. You are also comparing a freak aquarium version of Taxifolia to a native racemosa, Can it be assumed that the racemosa has not morphed in our aquariums exactly like the taxifolia has??Also we can assume that in a refugium its going to be non competitive and perfect light and heat conditions, Prime for the production of CYN.
Regardless Collin, IMHO if a person wants to run a refugium and they are choosing a macro algae to use in it. When choosing you have to take a number of things into consideration, including secondary chemicals, possibility of sexual, growth rates and so on. Here is a table of the growth rates of a few algaes
Halimeda: ~4% / day (20-40 mg/g/d)
Dictyota: ~ 10% (50-100 mg/g/d)
Padina: ~ 10% (75-100 mg/g/d)
Caulerpa: ~ 10% (50-100 mg/g/d)
Thalassia: ~1.5% (10-15 mg/g/d)
Palmaria: ~25% (tripled in 1 week)
Enteromorpha: 20% (7 fold increase in 1 month)
Gracilaria: 10% / day
Cheleto: 15% (5 fold increase in 1 month)
cyanobactor: 35% (300-400 mg/g/d)
Now when you look at these and say eliminate the most toxic (caulerpa, dictyota and Padina), then eliminate cyano because it is gross and tough to harvest, you are left with several great exporters, that are easy to grow and harvest, have a low sexual rate and you dont have a problem with toxins. Now if you still wish to use caulerpa, by all means
Mike