Fish Stocking List, 120g

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

Sherman

Has Met Willis
Joined
Oct 27, 2005
Messages
1,016
Location
Central CA
I'm in the process of setting up a 120g. Two nights ago, my current 38g crashed, so I scrambled to get everything into the 120, a few weeks ahead of schedule. All the parameters show the tank to be cycled, and the corals are all looking good. Unfortunately, I lost all 5 of my fish. The power was out for 12 hours. 12 hours with zero water movement. I'd prefer not to dwell on that for now, it's been killing me for two days already. I need to look forward.

Being given a completely clean slate on my fish is a black cloud, with one thin silver lining: I get to pick the fish I want, and introduce them in the right order. So I'm planning.

The way I'm approaching this is to make a list of all the fish I want in the new tank, then start eliminating down. There are some, however, that are a "must have." So the question is "Which fish would you introduce, and why? In which order would you bring them into their new home?"

Here's the beginning list. I know this will change as you all remind me of other fish. That's partially why I did this, also.

Must haves:
Thompson's Tang (Acanthurus thompsoni)
0F2B07A2932A41D19A5D8BBB8FD1807FI.jpg


Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)
6CEA712E1E3D4920BCD0158F6AD5FD04.jpg


Black Perc, paired (Amphiprion percula, black variety)
BlackPerculaWMC_U28.jpg


One-spot Foxface (Siganus unimaculatus)
onespot_foxface_rabbitfish.jpg


Others:

Mandarin Goby/Dragonette (Pterosynchiropus splendidus)(introduced next year)
Mandarin9.jpg


Banggai Cardinal, school (Pterapogon kauderni)
uw741_ea.jpg


Zebra Dartfish / Bar Goby, school (Ptereleotris zebra)
1663_bargoby.jpg


4-Line or 6-Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia, Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
FourlineWrasseWMW_Ap8SW.jpg

sixlinewrasse.jpg


Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma veliferum)
SailfinWMTaP1165.jpg
 
oh my gosh can't believe you lost all your fish! Sorry for your loss. How are things going with your 1120? Opps I mean 120? :)
 
i thought wrasses were agressive fish? wount they eat and nip at things?
 
The tangs are going to outgrow that tank other than that I think you should be ok, also you can't keep a flasher as mentioned with a sixline, the six will win LOL!
 
Jason,I would look in to a, red sea sailfin tang.The Idaho Grape is doing good.
The poleps are out and that green cape has some nice blue poleps on it.
 
The grouping is in the area of several assertive fishes mixed with timid fishes. I wouldn't do that unless you lan on twice a day doing spot feedings. That is, the Mandarin and Banggai are not going to compete with those other fishes very well. I would go either timid or assertive and not try to mix the two.

As mentioned, the Tang will outgrow the tank fairly fast.

The pair of Anemonefishes will be pushy because of nesting. They should go in last. Next to last, put the Sailfin. They can get pushy after a year or so. The other Tang goes in just before the Sailfin. The two: Sailfin and Tang can be switched, depending on size differential. The wrasse should go in ahead (or after) the Sailfin and Tang.

I think the rest will be okay in any order.
 
I agree with Leebca about the assertive aspects of the fish listed. In my 120 I have a piar of maroon clowns, a four line wrasse, a hippo tang, and a sail fin tang. I consider this to be an aggressive reef. I doubt that I can ever add anymore fish because of this. My four line (my favorite due to character and friendliness) has pesterd all of my green chromis to death.
 
Sorry about your loss Sherman, I've had my share of learning experiences, I'm glad it hasn't discouraged you from this great pursuit.

If you don't have a quarantine tank, this is an opportunity to set up a nice sized one with your 38 (the silver lining....) Besides the obvious benefits of quarantine, a great benny is being able to introduce your new arrivals when the tank is totally dark (eliminate ambient room light also to maximize this), this has worked well for me over the years, it really reduces the initial aggression you often see where a new arrival is imediately hammered, traumatized and forced into hiding by more aggressive/established residents, almost eliminates the "new guy in their face thing"...

Good luck with your new system, with a larger system the temptation to overstock is lessened and a power outage can be endured for a longer period, you are going about it the right way....
 
Last edited:
if u plan on keeping any disc or rics rabbit fish may eat them
thats a pretty good line up i have black clowns would rather have true percs or onxy percs sail fin good choice if u get it small you will be able to have it in that tank for atleast 5 years maybe
 
Sorry for the late response, everyone. I was having trouble accessing RF for quite some time (got it resolved with my ISP, though).

I recognized that the lined wrasses were pretty aggressive. Every one of them I've ever seen has the same "Small Man Syndrome turned bully" attitude. I had assumed that fish would be last, but maybe not.

I've honestly never seen an aggressive sailfin, though it is a tang, so I can see the high potential.

The Thompson's tang, from every reference I can find, is supposed to be extremely docile, and extremely hardy. Being related to the Sohal... I'm wary. WetWebMedia refers to the Thompson's as being the best possible tang for the aquarium, and they mention that they can't understand why it's not more popular.

I had a foxface in my 38g for almost two years (I know... too small of a tank) before the accident. He was very timid, but I think this was partially due to such small confines. However, he was a GREAT peace maker. Always calm, and when the other fish would start fighting, he'd mozy on in and flick his spines a couple times, and everyone would just separate. He's the most likely first fish into the new tank... or the Bangaii's, once I can establish they have an adequate survival rate.
 
I just realized I totally overlooked the fact that I already have a copperband butterfly being housed in a friend's aquarium. He's known to be timid, and a non coral nipper. Would there be any reason to add either the CBB or the foxface first? The CBB is already about 4".

I've also forgotten how much I love Fiji lyretail anthias. Were a small school of these added (1 male, 3-4 females), the cardinals would assuredly be ruled out. I need to do some research on the aggression/territory habits of this anthias.
 
Speaking in generalities, I'd favor putting in the Butterflyfish before putting in the Rabbitfish.

Anthias can be problematic. Some require feedings of four or five times a day. They eat constantly in the wild and can usually only consume small bits in low quantity, but very often. When taken off this feeding regime, they have been known to die (malnutrition) in a year or less in home aquariums. So when you do your research, also look at their needs for feeding frequency. :)
 
Thank you, Lee. Yes, I am aware of the potential feeding needs of anthias, and was considering that into the equation, as well. Frequent feedings aren't a problem, that's how I used to have to feed my foxface, he was such a pig.
 
I like the idea of having a school of fish, but I don't really care for Bangais. I bought one for my wife and it really is a boring fish. It doesn't swim much, just floats in the same place for long periods of time. Have you considered Blue/Green Chromis, I think that they are beautiful schooling fish. I have some and it's awesome to watch them all swim together. Just my 2 cents! Good luck with the tank!!
 
Interestingly enough, my wife asked about chromis today. I've never been excited about them, but I don't dislike them, either. They're just "there" for me. But I can see the possibilities. I'm also leaning heavily away from the Bangaii, mostly because of cost. At $25/each, and in my opinion at least 4 are needed... that's $100 investment for still art.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top