Ghettotastic Office Tank

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spipedong

Active member
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
33
Location
Eugene, OR
Here's what I'm working on for my office.

Disclaimer: I suck at carpentry.

The tank will be either a 20H or 20L. The tall piece of plywood off to the right side is a place holder. Basically that is the side that will be touching the wall and I will be using the extra room on that side to hide plumbing and wires.

Here's a quick sketch of finished product:

Disclaimer: Plan not final, subject to change. May not be available in all areas. See store for details.
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And here's a quick progression up to this point:
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Looks great to me. Oh, I'm a carpenter...lol.

Maybe I shouldn't tell you about the 1 1/4" outside corner molding I had to use to hide the crooked cuts on the plywood ;) I really need a table saw!


Oh, also the center brace is just attached with angle brackets. It's removable to get the sump in and out.
 
The hidden plumbing/whateverthecrap idea is now scrapped. I got a good deal on a 30G long from a local guy last night, so it takes up the entire surface of the stand.

I made it 36" just in case I did something like this and changed my mind at the last second.

I'll have the LFS drill the tank today for (2) 1" bulkheads in the bottom. I would do it myself, but I don't have the cajones or the tools for drilling glass.
 
Tonight's Progress:
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I'm not skilled and I don't even try so my stuff always has the same generic basic look, but I'm excited to make a little more progress.

What's the recommended method for bonding acrylic to glass? I know silicone doesn't work very well. The entire right side of the tank will be converted into an overflow box.
 
Silicone works fine, I'm not sure where you heard that from. It's holding the homebrew overflow on my small acrylic in place as I type. Just be sure to seal it from both sides with a decent bead.

Funny, eh? Acrylic tank with a custom acrylic overflow bonded together by aquarium silicone :badgrin:
 
Technically you cannot "bond" silicone to glass or visa versa because they are dis-similar materials but you can get it to stay put or hold there with silicone as long as there is not too much pressure. BTW, it's looking good!
 
i have been in carpentry not by want but by need for 10 years and i tell ya what u are the newyankee work shop jk; l.o.l. looks good just recommend a wood glue at all joints to help the single screw joints keep it up and the pics tooo dont make us have to bug u !!
 
Tonight's update:

I reconsidered the acrylic overflow box, and decided to try something crazy as you will see.

Pretty much just roughed in the plumbing and overflow tonight.

I think I may win "simplest drain" on this one, although its canceled out by "most complicated return plumbing :p.

The upper return plumbing is going to have more T's and an adjustable nozzle of some sort on each T. I plan to have two on the "back wall" and one on the "left. The tank is actually intended to sit perpendicular to the wall (i.e the right side will be touching the wall, the back side is next to my desk and the front side faces the door/window.)

Without further chat, here are more pics:
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I like it! Looks like the overflow tube on the right isn't cut out yet? What's gonna stop critters from being drawn over the tops?

The "overflow" on the right isn't really an overflow. There's a bulkhead at the bottom but its for the return flow. I just wanted to make them symmetrical from the outside. When the canopy is on you can't tell that it isn't just like the other one. The object of this project is to make everything completely self contained within the stand and canopy.

I'll be using the Hofer Gurgle Buster (http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/index.html) on the standpipe.

Black eggrate should keep everybody out of the overflow.
 
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