Glass tank bulkhead drilling

[onehawksfan]

Hello everyone! I'm relatively new to this hobby and I see I just missed Bob Fenner!! Ahhh!! (currently he's my idol! www.wetwebmedia.com) Anyways, I am planning on joining PSAS soon and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a 1.5" bulkhead drilled into my glass tank for an overflow? Does PSAS have diamond bits that members can loan? Are there any LFS that do this? I have found a diamond bit on the internet for about $40, but it seems a waste if I only need to use it once! Maybe PSAS would go in together and all members could share it? thanks and I look forward to hearing from you!

 

[onehawksfan]

I want to clarify. I want a 1 inch bulkhead and I am told I need a 1 3/4" hole drilled. I found a diamond drill bit for $44.95 (www.shopsmartxpress.com). Anybody else want to do the same thing? We could go halves?

 

[Tangee]

I would check with several local glass shops. We had some 2+" holes drilled on 1/2'' thick glass and it was about $25 a hole, (which included $5 extra on each because they had to be lined up perfectly with each other in order to fit below our tank). Good Luck, I'm sure you can find someone local to do it very reasonably.

Susie

 

[mfinn]

I've read alot of threads where people have drilled there own tanks, but I have always found a glass shop to do it for me. Usually it is $25-$30 and I was very happy to pay it.
There is a glass shop in Olympia that drilled my last tank that charged $12.50.
So there are shops out there that will do it and have experience doing it.
I've read threads where people have used cheap Harbor Freight diamond dremel bits and been successful. But I think the stress level would be a little high.

 

[onehawksfan]

Thanks for the info - I guess I'll get out the yellowpages! Has anybody had problems drilling the bottom of their tank? I heard it might not be such a good idea? (for structural reasons). I want an internal overflow, probably just one on the back of the tank. I'll probably be utilizing one of those "upside-down J" tubes inside the overflow for a quieter tank. Would it be better to drill the side of the tank instead of the bottom, use a 90 degree elbow, then the "J" tube? Or do you think the bottom is fine? It's only a 20 gallon tank feeding a 10 gallon sump, so I can't believe the water pressure on the tank would be that great! Thanks for your quick responses! You guys/gals are great!

 

[onehawksfan]

I just found McIntosh Glass Co. in Ballard (206-783-1884) who says they will charge $25 a hole. Sounds about right - I'm gonna bring my tank down in a couple of days and have them look at it. If anyone else is interested, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[mfinn]

Make sure you check with the manufacturer of the tank that the bottom is not tempered.

 

[MarineTeng]

i'm curious to how this went as an owner of all glass tanks

 

[onehawksfan]

okay, here's my dilema! I'm setting up a 20 gallon long tank that's 29" long, 11" deep, and 14" tall (I'm not so sure of the verticle measurement). The stand uses 2x4s laid on their side as a base for the bottom corners of the tank. I want to utilize a 3x5" internal overflow box in the corner of the tank (tank is going to be in a corner too with back and wall side painted black). There will be about a 5" space between the walls and the tank. I originally wanted a bottom hole drilled into my tank for my overflow, but I don't want to have to cut into my stand. I think instead, I'm going to try something that I haven't yet read about someone else doing. I am going to drill my overflow hole about 2" up the back side of the tank (maybe just 1" up), go into my tank about an inch (maybe half), 90 degree elbow up, and then into one of those "upside-down J-tubes" (for a quiet overflow). I would then need another 90 degree elbow outside my tank that then feeds to the sump (10 gallon with mini refugium and protein skimmer). How will these turns affect my flow into the sump? Will this work? I can't seem to see why not - besides the fact that the flow might be slightly lower. What do you think? I just got my lights (65w x2 power compacts) in the mail, my rock is curing in Rubbermaids, and I just have to figure out this plumbing stuff first! I should have started a new post, but hope some people find this! THANK YOU for any input!

 

[onehawksfan]

Oh yeah, I am going to have this tank drilled this coming week (spring break) so I'll let you know how it went.

 

[onehawksfan]

Well, I went to McIntosh glass today and they weren't able to drill the hole. First, they said I needed to disassemble the tank and bring them only the panel. They would do the disassembly for me but they charge $80! Second, he said that if the glass was "safety" glass it would shatter right away. I guess I'm stuck buying my own drill bit and going for it or maybe I'll pony up for an acrylic tank. Either way I'm a little bummed today. I was wishing that my tank would be ready for water by the end of the week. My rock is almost cured - hardly "smelly" anymore. I'm getting impatient - I've been spenting all this money and so far have nothing to show for it!

 

[moortim]

Patience is a thing that you learn in this hobby if you don't have it already.

I have a related question, is there any way of knowing if the glass you have is tempered if you don't know who made the tank?

Tim

 

[onehawksfan]

Yeah, by drilling it! It is breaks, it's tempered! If it doesn't, it isn't! The guy at the glass shop says there is no way for him to tell.

 

[moortim]

Yeah, by drilling it! It is breaks, it's tempered! If it doesn't, it isn't! The guy at the glass shop says there is no way for him to tell.

LOL!! I think I will pass on that test.:lol:

Tim

 

[jsmkmavity]

the bottom of many tanks is tempered but very few have tempered sides, fronts, or back. a good glass man can tell by looking at the edges and the sound the glass makes when you thump it. sounds like your first stop might not be the best choice. also look for a manufacturers name on the tank somewhere, if you find it they can tell you what your tank is made of. good luck. if you drill it yourself make sure to cool the bit with water or special cooling/cutting fluid! for the size tank you are working with you could buy one reef ready cheap and sell the one you have to a fw nut! the other thing is there are cheap drill bits that dont last more than a few holes so research good brands. one more advantage of reef-readytanks!

 

[mr limpet]

you can tell tempered bottoms by looking thru a polarized lens. Most glass tanks have tempered bottoms . Try calling your local lfs -we drill them here for 25$ a hole

 

[onehawksfan]

I just ordered a diamond hole saw from shopsmartxpress.com and with shipping it comes to a little over $50 (1 3/4"). I guess I will be the one in Seattle lending it out to fellow reefers (fish that is. Maybe the PSAS wants to buy it from me at a discount once I'm done using it and have it as a lender item? I figured if someone was going to break my tank it might as well be me! Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[rainier29]

Listen. This really isn't that difficult. I've drilled dozens of these now and the process is very very simple. Keep the cut wet at all times, be patient and let the drill do the work. You need to use a high speed drill like a dremel tool. I personally use the small diamond bits. I first place masking tape on the area that I want to drill. Then I mark the circle that I want to cut. Then I use a round bit to cut around the mark at least 1/4 through the glass. Then I take a straight bit and drill through the glass in one spot. Then I work slowly around the mark with the straight bit until the hole is cut. You can then clean up the edges. Again the main thing is to go slow and keep the cut wet.

Travis

 

[jsmkmavity]

with hole saws you have to DECREASE! drill speed the larger you go. drill thru a piece of wood or plastic first and use this to keep the bit from wandering around and it is important to go slow. here is an excellent resource for free! please read! this is simple to do but you have do do it properly! good luck and have fun!.http://www.ukam.com/drilling_recommendations.htm

 

[onehawksfan]

Update: Mission Accomplished!

For those of you who are interested, I drilled my tank today and I have to say that it was VERY easy! Here's how I did it:
I used a leftover piece of plexiglass (1/4" acrylic from HomeDepot) I had lying around and drilled a "guide" hole. Then I took a 1/4" thick piece of wood (again just some scrap) and put it on the back of the glass with the plexiglass on the top. I secured them together with two spring-loaded "jaw" clamps. I got out the garden hose, had the water running while I used my cordless drill on the slow setting. With my variable speed drill, I proceeded very conservatively with the speed and pressure. The hole saw has a couple of holes in the sides and top for the water to flow through. It took me about 10 minutes and I had a perfectly cut hole. WOW - rainier was right about how easy it is!
Including shipping, the hole saw cost me $50. If anyone wants to borrow the drill bit you are welcome. You must pick it up though (Ballard), and leave something in collateral so I know you'll bring it back! Hopefully within a week or two my tank will be up and running! (finally!)