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chickenofthesea

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Ok, so I didnt know if this was the best place to post this but since it is a question and problem for a DIY top of I am working on I figured this forum was appropriate.

I have a 4g pico w/ approx 4g sump that peppie (thanks again) help me create. I want to design a gravity fed auto top off for this system but I am running into issues because this is not a normal setup. I built an acrylic box that mounts to the back of the sump that will hold the freshwater. I am running into plumbing issues because the sump sits directly behind the pico and is slightly taller. I have a pump that pulls water into the sump and then a spill way that puts water back into the DT. for this reason, the evaporation shows in the DT instead of in the sump which means I need to run the outlet from the ATO to the main tank. Is it possible to set this up with out using a pump and switch and if not do I have to place the switch in the DT. Can anyone think of a way to not use a pump and make it totally gravity fed? Please Advise!
 
Yes you can use all gravity if the water level is above the tank being topped off. We used gravity long before powered ato system. Just as accurate and reliable.
 
Ok, so... I have this box built, it is 3"x3"x8" long. I have not sealed the end yet and have added a filler neck. I have a picture of the sump and tank below and the unfinished box I thought I had figured out.



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I know the idea seems simple to most people here but when I tested the way I wanted to set up the top off lines I had issues. using a bottle of water as my test box, I placed the air inlet tube just under the surface of a glass of water. I filled the bottle with water and placed the water inlet into the glass, the first time I pulled the air inlet tube out of the water the water outlet started pouring water into the glass, but as soon as the water level reached the air inlet tube, it started sucking in water from the glass. the draw of water from the bottle started a siphon.:target: very frustrating!
 
If you are using the gravity fed method, your holding container needs to be airtight. The line that regulates the depth of the water in the sump, needs to be connected at the top of the holding container and the open end connected in a permanent possition in the sump at the level you want the water to stay. The line that the water will flow from the holding container to the sump will need to be connected at the bottom of the holding container and long enough to stay under the water level in the sump. When the water level in the sump falls below the open end of the top line it will allow air in and water to flow out the lower line. when the water level rises and seals the end of the uper line, it will stop the air flow and stop the water flow. The holding container does need to be above the sump.
 
Ok, what your saying makes sence about where the lines need to be located in regaurds to the top off container. I never thought about that making any difference until you said it. The only thing is that the water in my sump will never change, the water level is always consistant cause the pump always pulls in the same amount of water and the spill way equalizes to the water intake. So I am stuck putting those lines in the DT right? I'm ok with that cause I can hide the lines, I just didn't want to have to install a switch in my DT. Oh... and I am making an airtight cap for the filler neck and I have RO fittings coming in the mail with black RO lines for the air intake and water outlet.
 
why is your sump water at a consistent level and your tank water level fluctuates? I'm curious how you have your system set up. Can you post pics?
 
why is your sump water at a consistent level and your tank water level fluctuates? I'm curious how you have your system set up. Can you post pics?

Lorie,
His system is just like a HOB fuge, The pump sits in the fuge and draws in water from the DT. This makes the water level in the HOB fuge higher than the water level in the DT. the water is then gravity feed back into the DT. That makes the DT a huge return chamber.
 
Lorie,
His system is just like a HOB fuge, The pump sits in the fuge and draws in water from the DT. This makes the water level in the HOB fuge higher than the water level in the DT. the water is then gravity feed back into the DT. That makes the DT a huge return chamber.

AHHa...okay!
I thought that pic was just the sump. I see it now!
 
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Do you guys think the way I have this set up is a bad setup? Should I go another direction. I really wanted to have the sump behind the DT. I see what they did with "The Nurce" and I could easily duplicate that on the box that I have. I made custom rock for my DT yesterday so when the cement cures I will fit it in the tank and design it to hide the air intake and water outlet lines.
 
No, nothing wrong with the way you have it set up. I just didnt realize how it was set up when I was reading this.
 
Gotcha, I am going to test the placement of the lines on a bottle again and make sure I can duplicate the result I need. I'll update with results and pics of finished box.
 

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