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diablo

sand loving outcast
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
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704
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seatac
well I got my 180 up and running I have a inline 1/3 hp chiller that I do not have hooked up inline I have it returning to the fuge. it has a mag 7 on it so about 650 gph? the return is 1200 gph which is too high for the chiller. the problem is my aptartment is about 90 degrees right now and the chiller is at 82 constantly running heating up the place more.
Is it because the chiller is not inline my heating issues are a problem or is it too much flow in the chiller or not enuf flow through the chiller? This is not going to work when it really gets hot up here.

the chiller has alot of clearance around it but I will find a fan to help blow away exhaust.

heres the pumps
external return blueline velocity T-4 (I didnt return it) quitier than the pcx 55 I had for the return
external pcx-55 for the skimmer
2 rio seio 1100
3 mj 1200

lighting has a open top canopy
3 250 watt metal halides
2 160 watt 6' VHO's

I threw a 4 inch fan blowing air into the stand.

The current configuration may not allow me to throw fans into the canopy but I should be able to throw them on top blowing downwards

heres links to the equipment
return line
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...roduct_Code=BL-VEL-T4&Category_Code=DolphinEx

skimmer pump
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...Product_Code=GEN-XPCX-55HP&Category_Code=MAK4

chiller pump returning into the fuge
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...en=PROD&Product_Code=MAG700&Category_Code=MAG

chiller 1/3 HP model
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produ...e-_-Chillers&ref=3969&subref=AA&N=2004+113768
 
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Hmm...My pumps use to heat up my water so much on my old 38gal cube that the chiller almost ran continuously as well and that was the same chiller that worked great on my 75gal tank (much bigger tank and double the wattage). One difference between the two setups was on the 75gal, I had the water sucked out of the sump and pumped back into the sump in a different chamber. On the cube, I had the water suck from the sump and then was returned to the tank. Not sure if that made a difference because I never got a chance to try it out the other way on the cube, but I think for the most part, if the temp in the room (like in your case) is that high or the pumps produce so much heat (like in my case) regardless of how you plumb in the chiller, it may still run pretty much continuously. 90 degrees is pretty warm for a room so with you wanting to keep the tank's temp at 82F, may be really hard. Probably even if you ran 4 chillers for eg. The minute they shut off, the warmth from the room itself, will cause that water to warm up really quick and kick those chillers back on. IMO, I'd try getting the room a little cooler if possible or try as much as possible to vent the heat from the chiller out of the room so it won't contribute to the warmth of the room. Just a few thoughts that ran across my mind. Hope you get sorted out:)
 
plumb your chiller to return back to the main tank, also the temp. probe should go to the main also.
How quite is this chiller?
I have have 10" fan blowing on my large pump, it really made a huge difference in heat, dropped about 5 degrees, then added a clip on 5" in the canopy across the water surface, dropped the temps even more.
I will use one pump to run the chiller, carbon reactor, & main return.
 
Sorry to get a little off track but where the heck are you? 90deg in your appartment and your talking about it getting hotter?
 
Sorry to get a little off track but where the heck are you? 90deg in your appartment and your talking about it getting hotter?

Its the chiller and tank that is making his place so hot.:)

I agree run the Chiller to the display. This will also serve a back up when your return pump fails. Throw the temp probe either in the display or overflow.

Don
 
1200 gph is not too much for the chiller?

scooter the chiller sounds like a little beer fridge when it kicks on. the only thing is getting it to shut off. with no lights over night it stayed at 80 deg the chiller is set for 79.

meche its the chiller is why I am so hot in here it will not shut off and the heat from the exhaust is too much.
 
If you turn off the chiller, does the room and tank cool down?
1200 GPH seems high for most chillers, unless it is a monster.
My little 1/4 hp recommends from min to max of 100-450 GPH
 
with out the chille the temp will drop inside the apartment. but the tank will heat up.
 
Hey slow that input down a little until you see a drop in tank temp. I think 650GPH is too much for efficiency.

I see it as "reaction time"
With that chiller you should be able to drop the temp of a gallon of water down quite a bit as long as the flows are not to fast.
 
You did all of this right?

Requirements for Ventilation are:

Back/Front: Condenser (radiator) requires at least 18" clearance to allow air into the Chiller.
Sides: Require at least 6" of clearance to allow proper airflow.
Chiller must not be placed in a closed closet or cabinet. If placing Chiller under a cabinet, the cabinet MUST have a back opening at least 30" high for adequate ventilation.
The warm air from the Chiller must be completely exhausted from the Chiller location. A fan may be necessary to draw warm air away from the Chiller. The maximum operating temperature is 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

Also, this is a stupid question, but I have to ask:
The chiller isn't turning on your heaters is it?

I see it as "reaction time"
With that chiller you should be able to drop the temp of a gallon of water down quite a bit as long as the flows are not to fast.

There is an ideal point for efficency, but it shouldn't matter too much. Cooling a small amount of water a lot is equavalent to cooling a large amount of water a little.
 
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There is an ideal point for efficency, but it shouldn't matter too much. Cooling a small amount of water a lot is equavalent to cooling a large amount of water a little.
Very true, but ramming 1200 GPH through a little tube can also add some pump heat into the system. I suspect that he needs more ventilation in the apartment to prevent jsut moveing heat out of the coller tank into the warmer room so to speak. Need to get the BTUs out of the room system.
 
Very true, but ramming 1200 GPH through a little tube can also add some pump heat into the system.

I think he is using 650GPH in a chiller that reccomends 360GPH - 720GPH.

Need to get the BTUs out of the room system.

:lol: new DIY project! :lol:
 
You did all of this right?
Also, this is a stupid question, but I have to ask:
The chiller isn't turning on your heaters is it?.

there is no need for heater on this tank as of yet so I have none on it.

I will post pics of the chiller and its location... wide open front and right side. 15 inches in the back and about 4 inches on the left side.

from where the outlet is in the fuge I ran it into the bulkhead for the return so now when the chiller cools the water it is not recirculating into the fuge but is going into the main display without cramming 1200 gph through it.
 
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Or open a window?:D
in my neighborhood I cant leave a window open when I am not home. so the proplem is when I am at work its too hot in the apartment. I am concerned about when it really gets hot up here. it was only 65 yesterday. I wish I could drill a hole through the wall and set the chiller on the back porch lol!
 
I routed the outpet from the chiller into the bulkhead for the return so now all chilled water is getting returned to the tank. heres pics of my mind boggling situation.

DSC00059.jpg


clearance around chiller is 15 inches in the back manufacture recommends 18 inches but space limited.

DSC00056.jpg


DSC00057.jpg


open top canopy

DSC00055.jpg


and the rest

DSC00058.jpg


DSC00052.jpg


DSC00051.jpg


DSC00050.jpg
 
Did you try & slow down the return to 600gph?
If that is a small room & closed, the heat can't get out, that isn't good as it is still cool right now.
 
its a open room. but I definatly agree about being cool and that not being good. I am going crazy right now trying to figure out what I need to do. I may just have to do small set up which really bums me out alot.
 
I see a few issues:
A 1/4hp chiller is not enough for the temp drop you are looking for.

You have it working against itself by having it in the room with the tank. Find a way to remote mount it outside. Plumb it through a window left open enough for the flex tubing. Buy the inexpensive window locks to secure the window in that position.

If you do not do this last part, you WILL have issues this summer when the temp climbs. Fans are great, but with the parameters existing where you live, you will not be able to exhaust enough to the outside (with closed windows) and other issues will arise. Good luck. D
 

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