Help with hole placement for new 225 Glass tank

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Echris

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Jan 31, 2005
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Location
Bothell, WA
I am getting a new 225 custom glass tank but need help with where to place the 2 external overflows, returns and holes for a closed loop. Also how big should the holes be. I am planning on a 4" dsb so I assume no holes until 5" + off the bottom?
The tank is 72L x30W x24H

I am replacing a failing tank and would like to do things right this time so any help will be welcome.

Thanks
 
For the overflows, I would put a hole in both upper-back corners (as close to the top and sides as the bulkhead flange will allow). Minimum hole sized for 1-1/2" bulkhead.
 
I had a dsb once.... with a closed loop and 3900gph pump it blew sand everywhere! :mad:So i went Bare bottomed.:eek::D
 
I did one hole in the center of my 300 for the CL, made it easy for the plumming. 1 1/2 BH as for the overflows are concerned i went with what was already there twin megafows with 1' and 1 1/2' (used tank) If i was to do it all again i would do coast to coast..... best of luck to ya.

Reefferman
 
Don,
For the overflows I was thinking of having slots cut into the back draining into a box and then down to the sump. Not sure how big all that should be or if having one big section in the middle would be better than one on each side?But what you are suggesting looks interesting if I read it right? Just place a BH close to the top put a screen over it and drains directly to the sump?

Eric
 
ReefferMan,
What did you do with the rest of the CL and return lines run them over the top? And pardon the ignorance but what are "Megafows"?

Eric
 
my last tank was a 125 i had 2 intakes mid tank and two returns on the back at each corner. But had a difficult time getting the flow right. New tank i went with hammerhead pump 8 way oceans motions two bottom back towards the center three back towards the top and three top front with three way revolutions. better flow than expected only way to go
 
ECHRIS said:
Don,
For the overflows I was thinking of having slots cut into the back draining into a box and then down to the sump. Not sure how big all that should be or if having one big section in the middle would be better than one on each side?But what you are suggesting looks interesting if I read it right? Just place a BH close to the top put a screen over it and drains directly to the sump?

Eric
Click to expand...
What kind of cost did they suggest for cutting all those slots in glass?

If you don't go with the slots in the glass, I would go with a coast-to-coast overflow box (slotted on top) across the length of the back. It only has to be tall enough, top-to-bottom, to go from the top of the tank to just below the bulkheads. Depth (front-to-back) just has to be a bit longer than the length of the bulkhead fitting. You could even grow macro-algae in it (read about algae turf scrubbers).

I am not a big fan of covering bulkheads with screens and calling them overflows. Too easy for a significant portion of the screen to get covered and blocked (for example - a sheet of nori that comes loose from a lettuce clip). With slotted overflows, it is much harder to block a significant portion of the overflow.
 
I plummed the return straight to the front of the tank to 4 sea swirls 1 1/2 all the way to the end and used t's to hose the sea swirls. I used one hole for the return being it was more then enough water. If you use a t with two screens you would'nt have to worrie about fish getting sucked up in the CL sys. One hole made it a clean plummin job for me i took several weeks to plumb just 6-7 feet lol...i use 2 barracuda's one for the CL and one for the return, the return is cut way back. You might want to place a gate valve on the CL if your using a hammer. Sorry for the slow responce, Work the other 4 letter word. Pix for an example.

DSC02733.jpg


DSC02730.jpg
 
echris, a mega-flow is where there's slots down low on the overflow box making a syphen that sucks water from low as well as high.

Coast to Coast! do it man! thats the way to go IMHO.

Drill one hole for the CL and save a head ache! lol just t off the bh inside the tank so no inhabitance getts sucked in. Besta luk. If you would like more pix of what i did just ask. heres a pic of the overflow, theres slotts down low.

Reefferman

DSC02185.jpg
 
I should have probably been more specific - I don't like screened bulkheads for overflows - blockage can equal flood.

For closed-loop systems it is not as much of a problem, as blockage just means reduced flow.
 
Don,

I am not sure what they would charge for the slots but the 2 external boxes where included in the quote along with some holes for a CL.

Reeferman,
I like the look of the minimal plumbing at least from the back but why didn't you go through the back of the tank for your CL? Or do your returns provide flow to the back? With a glass tank its now or never with the holes. I know how that work thing is, i tried to stop doing it awhile back but the fish kept demanding food and a new home:)

Scooterman,

The coast to coast is sounding good so how would that work and how loud is it?
Eric
 
I would say as quite at least but since the water doesn't fall but a short distance I'd say even quieter that your normal overflow boxes.
 
So for the size of my tank what should the dimensions be and what changes would you want to do to yours?
 
ECHRIS said:
So for the size of my tank what should the dimensions be and what changes would you want to do to yours?
Click to expand...

You have a very nice size tank, I think the dimensions are perfect for a 225g IMO. The trough part is 4"x4" Inside dimensions with 1" (I think) teeth all the way across. The center box was the problem, I needed more than 6" Inside to thread the 1 1/2" BH (I got it in but with no elbow, not sure If I even needed that), I'd have to measure what I got & modify that to make it the right size but the width & Length of it was fine. I wanted a box on each end but because of plumbing design for the CL I ended up putting one in the middle, this really doesn't matter if you have one or two because the trough skims the entire surface area. If I would redo it, I'd make it to have two 1 1/2" drains to the sump, because when you want to really stir up things & dump everything into the sump where a sock is fitted, you have to crank the water flow high but man does it work nice, in no time the sock gets most of the loose particulate in the main display & I then remove it & slow the sump flow down again.
Like I said, Chris, I'm working now but later tonight I'll measure it up, I have a scaled drawing so I can make you a sketch in detail, If I forget feel free to PM me to remind me LOL, I get busy sometimes.
 
There is one hole drilled for the CL, i found that having 2 holes is a real pain and not needed. The pix i posted show where the barracuda is in respect to the hole drilled for the CL... theres one, then it shoots straight up to the top of the tank to the sea swirls. I have an other barracuda pump thats used for the return from the sump, its plumbed throug the overflows.... does this make sence? some times pix are not explaining the jist if you know what i mean.
 
Well the Coast to coast idea just came crashing down due to the $300-$500 price tag depending on the config:-(

So I think I will stick to the 2 overflows close to each corner of the tank or would a foot from each side be better?

As for the CL I am thinking of moding Reeffermans setup. 1 1/2" intake 2, 3/4" or 1"? return holes in the back maybe midway up the back and torwads the center, with 2 more lines running 2, 3/4" SW on each front corner.

The returns would then be drilled through the back towards the sides. Should theses be towards the top for anti siphon reasons?


Eric
 
Keep the overflows on the corners, so you'll have room to protrude for CL returns!

I'd have at least 4 or 6 of the 3/4" BH's for the CL returns, & at least one bh for the sump return.
 
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