High Alk

[Reef Monkey]

I just recently set up a calcium reactor and introduce around 10 corals into my new frag system (it cycled over the course of 5 weeks). Before I had the calc reactor set up my parameters (salinity, mag, temp, ph, calc, alk) were perfect. Now after setting up the reactor and trying to fine tune the adjustments, everything is where is should be except for the alk. My alk is at around 16, which I know is high. The effluent out of the calc reactor is at 6.79 at slow dripping rate. The bubble counter mounted to the calc reactor is around 9-10 bubbles per minute.

Is this just a case of introducing too many corals at once? Should the alk levels come down in a week or so? Bad test kit?

I'm using IO salt. My salinity is 1.026, temp around 78.4, mag at 1300, calc at 400, ph is 8.3 and like I said alk at around 16.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[trido]

What is "were perfect" and what is "where it should be except alk"? Have you tested the make up water to see what the new water is reading?

Typically IO has a high alk and low Ca. Ive never seen a DKH of 16 with new water though. Adding new corals will never raise your parameters

 

[NaH2O]

Also, which test kit are you using?

 

[Ed Hahn]

Ok if you are getting a reading of 16. That would mean your Meg/ is about 8. Your PH would have a different reading I would think. Your Ph is good. So I question your kit.
I always read more RHF when I see stuff like this.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php

If you had a lot of CO2 going into the tank your Ph would be lower closer to 7.5 range. You have effluent dropping in the air to your sump. I bet you your favorite barley pop its a error in test kit. talk to you soon!

 

[Reef Monkey]

By perfect, I mean that my magnesium was around 1350, calcium 420 and alk was around 10. PH has alway been 8.14-8.33.

I'm using a Salifert Alk test kit, a year or so old. Elos kits for Mg and Calc. My ph is being monitored by my controller it was calibrated a couple of weeks back, I've also tested with a Salifert ph test kit as well.

I'm hoping it's a bad test kit, although it's the same test kit that I used a week or so before the reactor and it seemed to test right. I've ordered a new alk test kit, but in the meantime if someone has any other ideas what it could be I would appreciate it. I did a 10% water change a couple of days ago and will probably do one in the next day or two.

What should my new make up water test at using IO salt at 1.026 salinity?

 

[tike]

For me I try to stick with a bubble per second for the co2 injection but that has a lot to do with size of tank, and the type of corals your keeping. I drip at ~3 drops per second in a HEAVY sps tank and my effluent runs at 6.5

 

[Reef Monkey]

Ed-
One of my corals is losing it's tissue and one of the green/purple monti is bleaching on me. Do you have an alk kit I can borrow tomorrow to test my water?

 

[Ed Hahn]

yes...
stop by. If I am not home. You have a key.

 

[Boomer]

RM

The *New IO should be

Instant Ocean (new)
Ca++ = 400

ALk/dKH = 11

Mg++ = 1350


When you made that new salt do you use the whole "container" or just part of it. ? If you used just part of it that can happen. You need to mix all the dry salt first, like rolling the bucket on the floor or by some other means.



Ed

a reading of 16. That would mean your Meg/ is about 8

No, no, no old buddy

2.8 dKH = 1 meq / l

16 / 2.8 = 5.7 meq / l

 

[Reef Monkey]

I tested with another test kit and came up with the same reading, basically it just started turning pink as I was pushing out the last drop out of the 1ml syringe do-dad in the salifert kit. I ended up turning off the calcium reactor this past week and now my alk has gone back down to about 7.5-8. I tested a fresh makeup of saltwater using the same salt and the alk was at 14, so I decided to go ahead and order some Tunze salt to see if that makes a difference. I've been wanting to switch for awhile now and this gives me the reason to go ahead and do it. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[Boomer]

OK RM let us know

 

[Reef Monkey]

Boomer-

Well I got the Tunze salt in the other day. Since I had high alk readings I turned off the reactor and put my corals in my brother in laws tank. My alk readings went back down after not running the reactor for several days, it went back down to around 10.8-11 from around the 16 it was at.

I started the reactor back up the other day though once I got my salt, even though I haven't used the new salt yet.

Tonight I mixed up a fresh batch of sw using the tunze salt at 1.026 and the readings were
400 calc
8 alk
1200 mag
ph 8.4

The water in my tank with the reactor running for the past couple of days at 1.026 is
425 calc
12.5-12.8 alk
1050 mag
ph 8.26

the effluent coming out of the reactor is at 6.85 ph
the bubble counter is going at about one bubble every second and a half - two seconds.

I realize that I need to bump my mag up a bit, I'm hoping to do this over the course of future water changes. Is the alk being at 12.5-12.8 still a problem? I do realize it's kind of high still, but do you think it will go down with water changes with the new salt? Is there something else that you would suggest to lower it or do you think it will go down as the tank settles in a bit?

I appreciate any feedback that you may be able to offer.

 

[Boomer]

Yes, it is still kinda high. Just shut off that reactor till it comes down to say 10. What is in this tank it looks to me like you do not need a reactor. That effluent pH is high for almost any reactor. You got it down to ~ 11, only for it to go right back up to ~13 in two days. What mind of media is in that reactor. I hope it is not filled with Dolomite.

You will never get that Mg++ up using that Tunze if it is 1200 pppm Mg++. NSW is 1300

I also think you have some testing errors as part of your issue. Tunze salt is usually around 420 ppm Ca++ and 1350 or so Mg ++ and the dkH just over 9. That is not even close to what you got. Have somebody else check/make the testes, like Ed, before you race off to make anymore corrects to the water.

 

[Reef Monkey]

Will do.

I have Caribsea A.R.M. Aragonite Reactor Media (coarse) in the reactor.

 

[taichimaster]

Boomer,
you said the reactor effluent is high....what is the targeted effluent ph? 6.6?

Yes, it is still kinda high. Just shut off that reactor till it comes down to say 10. What is in this tank it looks to me like you do not need a reactor. That effluent pH is high for almost any reactor. You got it down to ~ 11, only for it to go right back up to ~13 in two days. What mind of media is in that reactor. I hope it is not filled with Dolomite.

You will never get that Mg++ up using that Tunze if it is 1200 pppm Mg++. NSW is 1300

I also think you have some testing errors as part of your issue. Tunze salt is usually around 420 ppm Ca++ and 1350 or so Mg ++ and the dkH just over 9. That is not even close to what you got. Have somebody else check/make the testes, like Ed, before you race off to make anymore corrects to the water.

 

[Boomer]

Yes, or there abouts, but in your case now, if those Alk readings are correct and you lower the pH to ~ 6.6, the Alk and Ca++ will get even higher.

 

[mike1441]

would adding Kalkwasser powder (stirred with Salt water) bring ALK down?

 

[Boomer]

That will bring down the Calcium.

 

[OAL-T1V0M]

Hey all,

I am new around this forum, and fairly new to saltwater tank's and found the topic of this thread a bit interesting, as I also find "new/ideal" calcium levels to be a bit strange when I compare them to my calcium level...

so I've got a TruVu aquasystem 50, which with my rock/sand levels holds 41 gallons of water volume on the high side... I use Instant Ocean salt and supplement with Kent Nano Reef on sunday and thursday with a 20 gallon dose... Using API test kits my parameters are as follows Sal: 1.024 Ammonia:1 Nitrite:5 Nitrate:5 Phos:2 Dkh:10 and the kicker Calc: 30-31 drops or roughly 600-620ppm

so really my question is WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH A "HIGH" CALCIUM LEVEL???
i know a few reef stores, large aquarium operations (such as zoo's) that all keep their calc between 600-700ppm and their tanks appear to be flourishing...

 

[tcduongxx]

For me I try to stick with a bubble per second for the co2 injection but that has a lot to do with size of tank, and the type of corals your keeping. I drip at ~3 drops per second in a HEAVY sps tank and my effluent runs at 6.5

Make container of and add calcite to the container. Let the affluent drip into that. Then run a nother line and let it drip out at the bottom. That way your effluent should be around 7 or better when it hit the tank.