How does my set up look?

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Fleetbox; sometimes not enough current in your tank will allow detritus to build like that.


Yes, you are right on track. Waiting on a pump for closed loop. That is why I keep blowing it off. It is not diatoms, just gunk that builds up in the rock.

Tava, I seen that you were looking at that same excalibur HOB that I was. I think you would have better luck with yours. IMO, I will not buy it as it looks like an eyesore.FYI
 
Tava, about replacing bio-balls with LR, it is said to use 1-2lbs per gallon. I am still a little confused on how they come up with this number because IMO if 30lbs of LR can bio-filtrate a 15-30 gallon tank, why not a 90 (unless it goes on the assumption that people may try to add 1-2 inches of fish per gallon). If that is the case, then maybe 30lbs won't have enough surface area to handle such a load in a 90 gal tank. Nevertheless, I really don't know. Someone else may have to help you in that department if you decide to go that way, as I am still learning myself and I'm quite interested in knowing myself.
 
Fleetbox,

I too have thought that skimmer may have "a little too much stuff" hanging INSIDE the tank. I really have my heart set on an insump skimmer. But at the same time, I am getting fed up with the progress of mine. I will tatke the advise of adding 2 more stones to it and see how that works.
 
Your skimmer looks much better and should be able to produce results. If you decide to buy a skimmer get one that can be used both ways. You could then start using it right away and when you get room in the sump (removing bio balls) you can put it inside.

I agree with Krish, put at least 1 lb live rock per gallon. There is no magic number at this time due to different density in rock. Figi is relatively light and will fill you tank quicker with less weight. Hatian rock is like lava rock. lots of holes but very dense and heavy.Slowly remove bio balls. This could be a reason you are not getting much skimmate. Bio balls are very quick to convert amonia, nitrite, nitrate. May be taking care of the solid matter before your skimmer has a chance. I imagine you are seeing nitrate spikes and need to do multiple water changes. When you remove the bio balls and get the skimmer producing your tank will make gradual changes and less stress on your inhabitants.
 
The 1-2 pounds per gallon rule is to determine how much rock it will take to fill a tank for looks, not necessarily for biological filtration. Caribbean rock used to be some of the most porous rock around, but that was when they were collected from Florida. These days they get them from the shallow waters off of Haiti; which is also the reason you get so many Cirolanid Isopods. The better rocks today are Tonga, Pukani, Marshall Islands and of course Solomon. The reason these work better is not only because of the porosity, but also the shapes. Rocks that are more open allow more water to flow through them.

Clayton
 
So in otherwards, with the correct type of rock (good porosity etc) you can bio-filtrate your tank using less lbs per gallon as in my case (90 gal 15-20 lbs) once the bioload doesn't exceed the rocks capacity. I do remember someone saying that eventually the rock will become "full' and have to be boiled in order to reuse it. So would this be, if I read that correctly, another reason why a person would go with more rock in order that it won't exhaust it's capacity too quickly?
 
15-20 pounds of any rock would only provide filtration for small bioloads; maybe something you could place in a 20 gallon tank. Rock eventually does fill up with junk, but cooking rock doesn't require actual boiling water. Although you can literally cook the rock with the same effect, leaving the rock in a dark tank with plenty of flow and filtration will do the trick. No bioload during this time is crucial. Eventually over the course of months the bacteria and other organisms will breakdown the junk in the rock and return it to it's former self. Actual boiling kills everything off and leaves you with base rock. It usually takes many years for this to happen, but the more load you place on the rock the quicker it will take place.

Clayton
 
Fleetbox,
I do not see nitrate spikes. I generally see ammonia rise from 0.0ppm to 0.25ppm every 2 weeks or so, and PH drop from 8.2 to 7.8. So, I change 30 gallons every 2 weeks (90 gallon tank). Never had a nitrate or nitrite issue. Is this odd? In fack, Nitrites (even from day 1) never peaked above 0. Nitrates did peak about 1 month into the cycle and have been 0 ever since. I keep the salinity at 1.020-1.022.
 
IMO 30 gal W/C every two weeks is a lot. Of course with a heavy load on the tank more is better. I change about 10% per 4- 6 weeks. Same with my FO. I test and alway's at 0,0,0,0 (last one is for phosphate) Could probably go much less. I also top off 1.5 gal every day.

amonia test must be fauled. I only found amonia when cycling the tanks. Unless you are adding mass bio load at one time.... Water changes as far as I understand havr little to do with PH swings. Photo period most likley the cause. Do you light the sump? Most people light it on a reverse photo to minnimize the ph swing.

If you did not do so many / much water changes you would see spikes in nitrates. You are a good husband (to your tank) and deserve a pat on the back.


Krish, you are awesome! I would love to start boiling up some rock. Don't laugh I am almost at that point with the flat worms taking over.
 
Krish, you are awesome! I would love to start boiling up some rock. Don't laugh I am almost at that point with the flat worms taking over.
Click to expand...

LOL...I went to the extreme with that one. Hair algae beat me so bad the firt time around that I left mine out in the baking sun here in the Bahamas for 3 months!

Tava, one thing I've learned about water changes is it is usually better to do more smaller frequent water changes than larger ones less frequently. I'm not saying what you are doing is wrong (because your numbers shows it) but it is said that larger water changes may stress the fish and corals a bit more because their environment will have a greater change. Temperature, PH etc may fluctuate more with the bigger water changes. What I've always done on my 90 (whether fresh or salt) is 10 gal per week. With this, anything my filters didn't pick up, I will by siphoning and not give it too long of a time to decay.

As for you ammonia test kit, it must not be reading right like Clay and Fleetbox says. With a wet/dry, once cycled you should never see any traces of it, neither nitrite.
Just a few thoughts.
 
I do think my ammonia test kit may be bad. I have next to nothing when it comes to a bio load.
55lb live rock, a few mushrooms, 1 pepermint shrimp, 1 urchin, 1 crab, 2 bristle stars, and 4 small fish. I feed nothing but blood worms and brine shrimp with an eye dropper (and only what they can eat before it hits the bottom on the tank). Almost no food EVER hits the bottom of the tank. I should get a new ammonia kit. Maybe cut back on the water changes and do 10-15 gallons a week. That way I am vacuming my substrate once a week instead of twice a month.
 
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Kirsh,

Thought about it...Did not want to go through the hassle of building it to save a couple of bucks. Just purchased a phosban 150 from the web site you provided me with earlier in this thread. It will go on my display tank. I will remove it from the display and use it on the water changing tub 24 hours prior to doing a water change. This way I do not have to buy 2 of them. I did some research on the Phosban 150 and it seems nice. I can get a 80 gph pump at the LFS for under %15.00. Do you recommend the Phosban media or ROWAphos media?
 
I just gave you a pat on the back and now you are going to cut down on W/C??? I am only saying that
1) slowly remove bio balls while adding live rock.
2) get the skimmer in check,
3) get new test kits
4) Test your water and keep a log.
Do I sound like your mother yet?! LOL

With a FOWLER system you do not require the highest quality of water to keep your live stock alive. Corals are picky and why we are all telling you to get rid of the bio balls. As long as water is testing 0 you are good. ( take a sample to your lfs and have them test) Your system is fine as it is bro/ Do not let me convince you to cut down on water changes. Test water and change as you see fit. I know a guy that does only two W/C per year at around 20% and only does this when he starts to see nitrates. He is crazy if you ask me but corals are doing great.

IMO when you change out from b balls to lr you will find you can have less work to do on the tank and a more natural type setting. Live rock and b balls will not have to compete. Live rock is much better to look at and I would want it to be the winner. The largest problem I am seeing right now is if one test is bad they all could be bad.
 
Krish,

Nice tank!! Can't wait to see it with fish!

Fleetbox,
Don't worry Mother (LOL!), not cutting down on the water changes at all. just thinking of changing 15 gallons a week instead of 30 gallons ervery 2 weeks.
 
Thank you for the complement Tava. You know are good old buddy Fleetbox told me in the beginning it looked like a cichlid tank (LOL). He took it back though.
 
hey everybody since u guys are on the subject of bioballs and wetdrys iwas wondreing if somebody could tell me how the bioballs hold up in a salt fish only tank or what i should be useing in place of them thanks for any info ric
 
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