How important is a perfectly level tank??

[crawfish]

I am in the process of installing a in wall 280 gallon tank. I purchased the tank through the lfs and my contractor is building my stand. I stressed how important it is to build my stand level. when it was finished it was pretty close to level. The next week-end after recruiting 5 people to help me lift my tank into the wall. I found that it was not sitting completely level. It was within 1/8 inch. two days later the guy at the store told me he was concerned and that if I did not fix it he really thought that it would crack.
( I can see it at three in the morning with three hundred gallons of water all over my living room floor ) After convincing my help that we had to remove the tank the following weekend and promising that I would not do it again. I took the tank back out and found that in a few places that there was a slight buldge causing the tank to not sit level. I sanded the spots and used window shims between the plywood and the wall framing to get it within
.1 using a computer level. after I put the tank back in the wall there are two spots roughfly 3-4 inches that are still 1/16 of an inch between the tank and the stand. Will this cause my tank to break or when I add water will it level itself out. any comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

[DonW]

A sheet of construction foam under the tank should fix it.

Don

 

[crawfish]

That would be another problem? when I ordered the tank my lfs gave me the dimensions on the tank and I went with it giving it to my cabinet builder. taking into consideration that I was going to use a 1/2 inch sheet of foam under the tank. Stand built then tank came in and it was 1/2 inch taller that
"expected". none the less I can barely fit a credit card between the top of the tank and the canopy without foam. in order to fix this would involve some major deconstruction to my stand and yet another reajustment bill from cabinet man.

 

[DonW]

Spray foam the low spots? or level with concrete like you would do a floor?

 

[crawfish]

I have posted some pictures in my photo gallery of the stand. as you can see it goes all the way to the ceiling and I would have to cut the frame and shorten the doors in able to enlarge the opening another 1/2". If it is neccessary than thats what I'll do.

 

[DonW]

Bondo will also fill the low spots.

Don

 

[crawfish]

bought some bondo but when I took the tank out it wasn't as bad as I thought so i decided to sand the high spot rather that raise up everything to meet the high spot. Maybe I will revisit the bondo thing seeing how I haven't returned it yet

 

[Scooterman]

If this is a glass tank you need a smooth level surface. Most factory stands for glass tanks only let the glass set on the edges not the entire glass surface, the tank has a band around the entire perimeter & one on the top, this is how the weight is distributed. That is what most Glass tanks warranty only when you use there stands & it is leveled. Now when you do a custom glass stand & design it to rest the entire tank bottom on a surface most people use the foam to allow for in perfections. On a tank that size I would want a 1/2" sheet or thicker to disperse the weight evenly, even if the stand is level. With all that being said, I don't know of any other way of doing it & sleeping well knowing it is solid. Maybe someone else may have a better idea but unfortunately IMO you need that foam. Maybe pics like you said will show up different possibilities. I guess bondo would be an option, just make it laser leveled if you going to do it this way, I know it is thick glass so it should hold up.

 

[crawfish]

I have a band around the edges of the tank. That to me seems like you almost rather the entire bottom sitting on the stand rather than just a 1/2 "
band around the perimeter. in order to better distribute the wait. I had the tank built in Dallas. and when they found out that I was putting it on a non OEM stand they basically said that the warranty was wothless. which is always good knowing that you just spent $1400 an a tank that is not going to be warranted if it has problems.:evil:

 

[crawfish]

Tank is 72x30x30 5/8" thick glass with 3" euro bracing around perimeter and two 1"x6" center braces for added support.

 

[Scooterman]

Actually if you think about it the thick glass is strapped on the bottom & top thus making that the strongest support, I guess the weight is supported by the sides just as much as the bottom would. Once you put that tank on a flat surface the bands will still be touching supporting the weight, my old stand had no surface just a parameter support for the tank. To me I'd think the foam over the entire bottom would work better but these companies will only warranty their stands & if you look at them they support only where that strap is, I don't totally understand their reasoning but I do know that most manufactures do it this way so there must be science to it. That part maybe someone who really knows why they to it this way would chime in, I'd like to see that, to me that foam would work just as good but I don't have the science to prove that. If you can I'd try & see how they make their stands.

 

[Scooterman]

BTW you have some nice wood work there I know that taking it apart would suck. My stand I made I was careful to make it square & level, once it got inside the room, I had to use a 1/4" foam across the right side of the stand to level the tank. The floor in that room is sloped for some reason, I had a 6 foot level across the room.

 

[crawfish]

Funny thing about this saltwater aquarium hobby I've decide to plunge into head first. I am in the process of building a new house. (turn-Key). I got my bid back from the contractor and he had allowed me a $5000.00 fireplace allowance. well here in Louisiana you might use a fireplace once a year so my wife and I said ":idea: :idea: AQUARIUM:idea: :idea: " 9 months of intensely searching the to end of the internet on saltwater aquariums (which I haven't attempted since high school when under gravel filters were high-tech.) and $9000 dollars later without the first drop of water and I'm off and running!!!! Thats one heck of an expensive nemo, none the less I am definately enjoying the experience so far.

 

[Scooterman]

dam man, well this is one great web-site for information. Take a look at the members showcase forums, Mojo, Nikki, Alberto & several others have large tanks, you can get some really useful information out there may help save some coin also. We have some really experienced people here also, you can surf the world of forums but when your through you'll be right back here (did I just say that with confidence or what LOL).

 

[crawfish]

I like the Acronyms reference you have at the bottom of you post!! I never could figure what LOL ment. :lol: LOL:lol:

 

[Scooterman]

That is the main reason why I keep it there because i keep forgetting what everything means!!

 

[crawfish]

Short list of what I've compiled for equipment so far:

Tank

280 Gallon Glass 72x30x30

Protien Skimmer

Euro-reef RS-250


Close loop

Sequence Dart

Calcium Reactor

Precision Marine CR-622 with solenoid Etc...

Chiller

1/3 or 1 hp brand I haven't decided yet

Lights

3 400watt PFO parallel reflectors w/ icecap electronic ballast (undecided)
3 400 watt either aquaconnect 14000k or Ushio 10000k bulbs (haven't decided)

4 36" TEK 5 Aintic lights

290 pounds live rock

350 pounds live sand

75 gallon custom sump with refugium

RO/DI

Aqua FX Barracuda

 

[crawfish]

any suggestions?????

 

[Scooterman]

On the closed loop I'd go with the Hammerhead, don't hold back on the flow. BTW I guess your having a few dedicated breakers for this tank right?
On the lighting I'd go with Lumanarc III reflectors, they get the job done for the little extra money. PFO HQI ballast would crank out lots of PAR for growing corals. Aqua Logics makes one of the best recommended chillers, make it big enough for your tank, they have charts to help use as a guide to what size you need. marinedepot.com, they are sponsors. If you want live rock I know themarinecenter.com out of Dallas will ship to Lafayette without the extra high cost of express shipping & you'll get it quick, will save money of the LR.

 

[mattseattle]

Yeah, I'd say go with the Hammerhead or at least the Barracuda for closed loop. I went with the Barracuda for closed loop and it's perfect! I used the Dart as my return pump but had to throttle it down some.

I also recommend the Lumenarc III's...although I had to go with the mini's due to space. Excellent reflectors and top knotch people to deal with at Pacific Garden Supply.

For ballast I went to Icecap electronic - kewl to the touch and saves on electricity. I used to use a PFO HQI ballast....large bulky heat generating thing!

Live rock - I would go with a company that does air freight. You can pick it up at your closest major airport and you'll save a ton on shipping.