How to deal with Dino..
- Thread starter dtd87
- Start date
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The most important thing, with Dinoflaggalets, is proper ID. They're often confused with Cyano. The best way to tell the difference, because they do look and act a lot alike, is to observe how it changes, throughout the day.
If, in the morning, your tank looks great, and then throughout the day, you have snot growing and spreading, it's probably Dinos.
If there's little change, from morning to afternoon, it's probably Cyano.
The reason for this is because, at night, all the Dinos die off, robbing the oxygen from the water, as they die. First thing in the morning, there should be no sign of it. Then it grows, very fast, throughout the day.
Once you're sure it's Dinos, there are 2 pretty effective ways of dealing with it. One is much more difficult than the other though, but slightly more effective, if done properly.
#1. Lights completely out, for 5 days. If you have any SPS, Clams etc. They'll be just fine. After day 5, you SLOWLY return to your normal photo period, over a few days, starting with 4 hours.
Day 6, 4 hours of light.
Day 7, 6 hours of light.
Day 8, 8 hours of light.
#2. Raise and sustain your pH at 12ph for 7 days. The problem with this is that it requires dosing, with baking soda, several times, each day.
Dinos are nasty, and difficult to deal with, but not impossible. It is important to deal with them though. Not only do they rob all of the oxygen, from the water column, at night, they're also toxic. Snails and other herbivores are at risk, from consuming Dinos.
If, in the morning, your tank looks great, and then throughout the day, you have snot growing and spreading, it's probably Dinos.
If there's little change, from morning to afternoon, it's probably Cyano.
The reason for this is because, at night, all the Dinos die off, robbing the oxygen from the water, as they die. First thing in the morning, there should be no sign of it. Then it grows, very fast, throughout the day.
Once you're sure it's Dinos, there are 2 pretty effective ways of dealing with it. One is much more difficult than the other though, but slightly more effective, if done properly.
#1. Lights completely out, for 5 days. If you have any SPS, Clams etc. They'll be just fine. After day 5, you SLOWLY return to your normal photo period, over a few days, starting with 4 hours.
Day 6, 4 hours of light.
Day 7, 6 hours of light.
Day 8, 8 hours of light.
#2. Raise and sustain your pH at 12ph for 7 days. The problem with this is that it requires dosing, with baking soda, several times, each day.
Dinos are nasty, and difficult to deal with, but not impossible. It is important to deal with them though. Not only do they rob all of the oxygen, from the water column, at night, they're also toxic. Snails and other herbivores are at risk, from consuming Dinos.
Think of long, stringy SNOT. That's exactly what it looks like....lol.
I believe this was a typo. A ph of 12 would precip everything out of the water and kill everything. The ph should be above 8.4 or so for awhile to kill dinos, although I have found that lights out works best and is the easiest.
woah! Yes, definitely a typo. That'll teach me to post while watching football. Thank you for catching and correcting!
Your corals will be just fine. Even the highest light demanding sps and clams would be fine. I did this about a year or so ago, in a tank full of acropora and 2 clams. Everything was just fine...except the dinos, which were completely eliminated
Skimmy
SKIM FU
ultimately dino's are a nutrient problem, so i would be asking myself, WHY is it my tank is accumulating enough nutrients to stimulate dino's???
singularly, or any combination of the following is typically to blame;
overfeeding of dry or un-rinsed foods,
too much detritus,
poor source water,
poor circulation,
poor filtration.
also, i find it ironic that zoexanthellae are a type of dinoflagellate...
:shock:
singularly, or any combination of the following is typically to blame;
overfeeding of dry or un-rinsed foods,
too much detritus,
poor source water,
poor circulation,
poor filtration.
also, i find it ironic that zoexanthellae are a type of dinoflagellate...
:shock:Interesting because I just did a big clean up.. Maybe I'm not skimming well enough or I need new Ro/di filters.. possibly flow but IDK.. Can dino kill fish? I may have to start my blackout phase tomorrow.ultimately dino's are a nutrient problem, so i would be asking myself, WHY is it my tank is accumulating enough nutrients to stimulate dino's???
singularly, or any combination of the following is typically to blame;
overfeeding of dry or un-rinsed foods,
too much detritus,
poor source water,
poor circulation,
poor filtration.
also, i find it ironic that zoexanthellae are a type of dinoflagellate...
Herbivores can die from eating enough of it. They can also die from oxygen deprivation, as it sucks up all the oxygen in your water.
Good Idea running an airstone right? I haven't seen my firefish in 2 days ~.~ but I don't know if he's hiding.. He sometimes does that. I may as well start this blackout today.
Don't think I'd go to that extreme. Just leave lights off. Bags could cause ph issues, by trapping co2, even though you've vented the bag.
lvsuckerfish
g funk
research hydrogen peroxide as I seen and read it also can be used to kill Dino. and other nuisance algae
I do light feedings.. every other day, fish seem fine with it. I feed with a baster also.. so I'm not sure if it's feeding.. or the batch of food I made may be bad now.. even though it's frozen.. I may have to make a new batch. So far looking in with my mag light I don't see any dinos haha but you know once the lights are on it'll grow.. This is day 2. Fish seem fine.. But I haven't seen my firefish in 3 days.. No carpet surfing to be found.. Hope the dino didn't off him with the o2 removal. Had him like 7 months.
