How to keep the water off of the floor?

[akunochi]

I completely disagree. Its a great method and on four tanks, in as many years Ive never had a sump flood using it. Its how 99.9% of reefers plumb thier tanks. Its basic plumbing. On my first tank, I found the drilled siphon breaks to be undependable and then started just plumbing my returns to only sit and inch or so below the water level. Its guaranteed to work as long as the tank is in your house, maintanance free.




Why does a person need to plumb the returns four inches below the water level in the first place? Ive plumbed several very large systems for myself, friends and have seen a ton of others. I wouldnt recommend plumbing it this way. Its guranteed to flood, maybe not right away, but over the years, it will. NO matter what kind of fancy electronics you use.

No I meant that my design on the tank was not implemented as well as I hoped...

 

[trido]

I've been plumbing my returns alot lower than 4" below the water for over 18 years and haven't had a problem.
I know alot of others do it also.

Yes, but you use the siphon breaks and keep them clean. They never worked for me so I have simply kept my returns and inch below the surface and have a sump to accomodate the extra water.
What I was saying was, If you use a check valve, sooner or later, it will fail, usually at the most inconvenient time.

 

[trido]

Hay trido
My only concern was the salt on the glass tops blocking the light and if I remove the glass then the salt and water getting onto my lights. That was the reason for the 4 inches below the surface. I just have gotten tired of cleaning them once a week. I just dreaded doing the maintenance on the glass. Its just such a pain. Having them ½ inch below the surface is exactly what I was trying to get away from to stop from having to remove the glass from the top of the tank all the time. I know what your going to say, just remove the glass. That’s just not a good option for me with 3 kids under 6 that like to throw things. I don’t want to find sponge bob in my tank. My first setup was like that and your right, there is not chance of failure. Worked perfectly every time the moment the water stopped.

I understand. I highly recommend using siphon breaks as Finn suggests, or plumb the returns just below the water in a way that doesnt agitate the surface too much. These are the two most widely used methods for a reason.

 

[mfinn]

Yes, but you use the siphon breaks and keep them clean. They never worked for me so I have simply kept my returns and inch below the surface and have a sump to accomodate the extra water.
What I was saying was, If you use a check valve, sooner or later, it will fail, usually at the most inconvenient time.

Yes I do clean and check them every week as part of my maintence schedule.
It is one thing that is just as important as anything else.IMO
I've had way too many other ways to cause a flood over the years.


I do agree that a check valve will fail eventually, and you are right, at the most inconvenient time.

I can honestly say I've never had a flood start, leak or other problem while I'm sitting there looking at the tank with a hour or two of free time.:lol:

 

[trido]

I can honestly say I've never had a flood start, leak or other problem while I'm sitting there looking at the tank with a hour or two of free time.:lol:

I did once, but thats another thread altogether.:lol:

 

[ac7av]

Thanks everyone for your input on this. I think what I am going to do is use the cheaper more tried and true setup with a twist. I am going to use a variation of the hole at water level but I am going to do it a bit differently. I really don’t want the water agitation or bubbles at the surface of the main tank. What I am going to do is on the manifold that goes across the top of the tank feeding the return nozzles, I am going to install a T connection that will have a vertical 3/8 in tube going up 2.5 feet with a turn at the top and bring it back down to the tank and dump it back into the overflow box. Leaving it ½ inch or so from the service of the water. I don’t expect the water pressure to push up that high in the tube but if it does I will be increasing the flow out the nozzles to reduce that back pressure. I certainly want to get all the flow I can so I really don’t want any back pressure in the system. After the hood is on the tank you really wont notice it much unless your looking for it. The cables going to the ceiling to raise the hood will probably be more of a distraction then anything but it sure will be nice to lift the top up easily for servicing the fixture and tank. The hood it self will be a foot tall off the top of the tank and that puts it at the top of my head so unless you tall you would not see it anyway back in the shadows. What do you think about that?

 

[tdawn66]

I had the same problem and was terrified of a power outage - it wasn't a syphon problem it was gravity. I ended up getting a check valve. Each time I do a water change I unplug my return flow pump which verifies the valve is working properly. No more holding my breath!

 

[tat2z_21]

I use the syphone break hole. And it works like a champ. Hey AC7AV I live here in Oak Harbor and would love to come and help you out. I have built up a few systems and would love to offer my services. Let me know.

 

[tat2z_21]

The water is only going to start a syphon because of the water that was being pushed up while the power was on, is now dropping. This motion starts the syphon from the display tank, as the water drops it pulls water with it. Until something gets in the way of the water syphon it will continue. If the syphon does not break within a couple of seconds then you either have the hole to low (should be right below the water line)or you are getting water on the floor because your sump water level is too high. Not accounting for these kinds of mishaps during the build up will lead to mishaps. Having a check valve or a constantly powered solenoid only adds to the inefficiency and means more room for failure. Keep it as simple as you can. That is what I have always been told. The syphon break is a proven method.

 

[mfinn]

I had the same problem and was terrified of a power outage - it wasn't a syphon problem it was gravity. I ended up getting a check valve. Each time I do a water change I unplug my return flow pump which verifies the valve is working properly. No more holding my breath!

As previously stated, the check valve will fail someday.
As trido said the only way to keep water where it's suppose to be is to make sure the return is close to the surface of the display tank so that the sump will handle the overflow when the power goes out, or the pump is turned off.

I have had good luck with my method and I do make cleaning the syphon break hole part of my weekly cleaning schedule, without fail.