How to move a clam...

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Maylin2

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My crocea has been browning slightly for the past two months, which I believe is due to my placing it too high in the tank. I have read that they brown when they are receiving too much light, so the issue now is how to move it. Or, could it possibly be that it isn't happy because one end of it is touching an arch in the rock? It has about 1/4" of new growth, just not in that area.

I :oops: put it on a very large rock that isn't too mobile. Any ideas? I don't want to hurt it, but would like it to color back up. My other crocea is on a rock about 3" above the sand bed and is doing great.

For the record, I'm running t-5's.
 
Crocea's will brown if to close to t-5's. For some reason they maintain better color under halides when up real high. If the bisal is attached to the rock and you want to move it down the just use a razor blade and cut the bisal threads close to the rock.

Don
 
Yes, the bisal threds are attached to the rock. I really think it has a lot to do with lighting, as the clam lower in the tank has gained color since I got it. The other clam at twice the height has lost it.

As far as params go, my salinity is at 1.023. Alk was a bit low at 6 dkh. Per advice on budget testing from Kevinpo and other hobbyists in the area, that's all I test for... Sorry if that doesn't help much.
 
I'm all for budgeting but you need to know that your parameters are good before blaming lights.

Don
 
I know he tests for nitrates, but I wasn't aware he did full param tests. The clam I got from you is doing great by the way. It's grown a whole new scute :) It's lower in the tank though.

It would seem to me that if I had param issues, it would be affecting all of the clams and any of my corals... I was under the impression regular water changes meant somewhat level params. Maybe i'm confused.
 
how deep is your tank? and what is the differnce in height between the 2 clams?
t-5 penetrate water better then halides that are just not as powerful, but that being said if the light penetrates the water better and its higher in the water coloum then it would get more direct light then the lower 1
 
Regular water changes will go a long way towards keeping your trace minerals up, unless you have a stony coral or clam bioload that depletes those trace elements faster than the water changes replace them, as in my case. Even some Macro Algaes and coralline algae will deplete these important elements. Also, depending on what type of salt mix you use, your trace elements may already be low.

Regular water changes are helpful, but it's still very important to know your parameters of the following:
Nitrates
Phosphates
Calcium
Alkalinity
Magnesium
pH (though this isn't as critical since it's not as controllable)

Your water changes are great, as long as you know your source water doesn't contain nitrates or phosphates, or other harmful elements or chemicals.

I'd still suggest regular testing for Ca, Alk and Mg. I understand the "budget" problems, but Salifert test kits will last roughly about 8 months to a year, if testing once a week. It's important that these 3 elements are kept in balance, and at high enough levels to sustain a healthy aquarium.


As to your original question, Clams can be moved, even once attached with their byssal threads, though it has to be done carefully. The byssal threads have to be cut, preferably with a razor, and as close to the rock and as far from clam as possible. Lean the clam to one side, carefully, to expose the byssal threads and slice through them. If the clam is large, you may have to slice from both sides to complete the cut.
 
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I had the clam at about 15" below the light bulbs themselves. The other clam was at about 20". I have moved the clam in question to the same level as the other, and it is doing great. It's already attached to it's new rock. Thank you for all of the input.
 
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