Ich Attack

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Never used it but you might want to search the other posts for ways to treat ich once it's been confirmed that's exactly what your dealing with. The best and proven methods are Hyposalinity or treating with a cooper based product (Seachem Cupramine) in a QT tank. IMO I wouldn't use the reef safe products.

To answer your question though, I would think you would want to turn off the skimmer (short periods) and remove any carbon you might be using. Caution though, I'm not recommending this treatment.

I'm sure Steve-s will post to this also. Take his advice.
 
james734 said:
Never used it but you might want to search the other posts for ways to treat ich once it's been confirmed that's exactly what your dealing with. The best and proven methods are Hyposalinity or treating with a cooper based product (Seachem Cupramine) in a QT tank. IMO I wouldn't use the reef safe products.

To answer your question though, I would think you would want to turn off the skimmer (short periods) and remove any carbon you might be using. Caution though, I'm not recommending this treatment.

I'm sure Steve-s will post to this also. Take his advice.
James, thank you for your answer. I was not sure if it was ich or marine velvet (both of which the LFS seem to have off and on). Upon asking one of the local club members about the actions of my bi-color blenny, I was told it was better to start treatment BEFORE seeing any evidence of either pathogen on the fish. Because I was not totally sure--I went with the less stressful treatment which was the reef safe treatment. Since starting it about 6 days ago, I have not seen any of the behavior I had seen after first putting the bi-color into the tank.

Like I said, I could not even be sure it was sick because of the way that particular fish swims and tends to hide a lot.

Hope this makes some sense.

Anne
 
in general most "reef safe" treatments are less effective and depending on the size of the main tank the cost to treat can be enormous. ive had fair success with "kick-ich", and "rally", after a dumb move on my part- putting fish in the 125 with no qt process, and it cost a fortune. the other thing is it takes longer to cure the fishes problem. if your fish need treatment now get a small tank and treat with cupramine and get their test kit so you can acurately maintain proper levels. the fish will have a better chance for survival and trearment will take less time and money. the main tank will be ich free after 6-8 weeks with no fish in it so you dont have to treat the reef if all fish go in the qt. if you set up a qt dont use additives or water conditioners unless the directions say its ok. the chemicals can counter act each other or even worse, make a toxic water problem- stick to the directions. patienc in a necessity in this hobby unless you have deep pockets at no care for the animals. act quickly but move slowly! hope this helps and have fun! it SHOULD be fun! if things get scary look for help from steve-s. he can give EXACT numbers and specifications and very willing to help. this whole membership owes steve many thanks wether he gets it or not! so heres mine-THANKS FOR HELPING SO MANY PEOPLE, IT IS APPRECIATED AND NEEDED! hopefully some of us can help him in some way sometime.
 
one more thing- treatments usually make the skimmer go CRAZY and most treatments say to remove carbon or other absorbants and turn off the skimmer anyway.
 
My2heartboys said:
James, thank you for your answer. I was not sure if it was ich or marine velvet (both of which the LFS seem to have off and on).
If your LFS is commonly battling these two parasites, might want to find a new source for animals. ;)

I realise that's a bit of a shot but your setting yourself up for problems from the word go. You are also running the worst risk without QT'ing fish a month before adding them to your display tank. As far as the Ich Attack, I think you need to evaluate the merits of what's in the product. Since we cannot do that, how do we know it will work? It is simpley labeled as "herbal remedy", even Melafix (tea tree oil) and Pimafix (Bay oil) at least give some reference and I wouldn't suggest either of those. Instead, ask yourself this: How can a product effectively treat this type of parasite while not harming anything else in the tank? Answer, it can't!

I would also not expect this product to treat A. ocellatum. If you cannot distinguish between the two (ich/velvet), copper (Cupramine) is your best defense used in a QT. Still, the best approach is properly IDing the problem. Some parasite (at least in the beginning) may present themselves similarly and not all can be treated by the same med. Sometimes even the species of fish can lead to helping in identifying the problem.

Upon asking one of the local club members about the actions of my bi-color blenny, I was told it was better to start treatment BEFORE seeing any evidence of either pathogen on the fish.
I have a huge issue with "gunshot" approachs and certain prophylactic treatments. Believe it or not, the most common cause of fish death is not always the parasite/disease but rather the haste in treating something that has not been identified properly. An inappropriate remedy or one done incorrectly more commonly being the cause of fatalities.

Like I said, I could not even be sure it was sick because of the way that particular fish swims and tends to hide a lot.
I would suggest in future you do not take the proactive approach in this manner. The best first step in ensuring prevention is quarantine. In doing so, you provide a safe haven where the fish can easily be monitored, a proper treatment can be assessed for the right problem and the fish in your display tank will not be put at risk from an unknown. I realise this might sound calous (it's not meant to) but I would rather lose one fish to an unknown that the whole community. :cool:


Cheers
Steve
 
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