Installing Schedule 80 bulkheads

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wgchristman

Well-known member
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Jul 18, 2007
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Location
Bremerton, Wa.
I recently bought a 180 gallon acrylic tank which had all the plumbing underneath hacked off, so I would like to replace the old schedule 40 bulkheads with schedule 80's.

The tank has one overflow with 5 bulkheads (3-1" and 2-1 1/2") installed. To install the new bulkheads, I am going to have to offset the two bulkheads on the right side because they are too close as well as make all the holes larger to accomodate the new bulkheads.

What is the easiest way to expand already drilled holes in acrylic? I was thinking of trying to just file them down, but having never done this before, I wanted to run it by everyone here first in case someone with a little more experience had a better idea.

Also, what is the best way to connect the plumbing to a threaded bulkhead fitting? Do you just use teflon tape or can you use PVC cement?

When I ordered these bulkheads from MarineDepot, one of the reviewers stated that there is a special cement for schedule 80 fittings. Is that true?

Thanks,

Wayne
 
Hand tighten them, do not over squeeze the rubber gaskets. I threaded in the fittings with tape, burying them deep, as threaded fittings can seep but be gentle enough as not to break anything, channel locks & strap wrenches works wonders, get the threaded part tight. From there & used regular sch. 40 PVC & the normal primer & glue, dries fairly fast so test your connections & mark them with permanent marker to get it right. Now making a small hole bigger isn't easy. Maybe someone has a better idea but I did it once, used a hole saw, held it almost completely off the area & it walked, jumped around until I get a good grove, dangerous IMO & sloppy but not bad enough where it didn't work well.
 
used a hole saw, held it almost completely off the area & it walked, jumped around until I get a good grove, dangerous IMO & sloppy but not bad enough where it didn't work well.

Router and a piece of plywood. No router then just a piece of plywood clamped over the hole and a hole saw with centering bit.

Don
 
Great Idea Don, didn't think of that one, I think mine was on a skimmer body but that concept would be the same, just would need to find something to clamp onto the surface.
 
For the 1" bulkheads, I'll have to take off another 1/8" and for the 1 1/2" bulkheads 1/4".

I don't have a router, but the idea with the holesaw sounds like it should do the trick.

Thanks Guys
 
Get a reamer to oversize the holes, and do it by hand!


I don't drill holes in an acrylic tanks with a power tools anymore (aside from hole saws), I've had too many sheets of plexi catch the blade and crack all the way across

-Dan
 
Get a reamer to oversize the holes, and do it by hand!


I don't drill holes in an acrylic tanks with a power tools anymore (aside from hole saws), I've had too many sheets of plexi catch the blade and crack all the way across

-Dan

Never seen that happen with cast acrylic, not sure its even possible. Acrylic cuts much like wood and may chip out but thats about it. Honestly never seen a 2+ in reamer before either sounds expensive.

Don

Don
 
Well Ridged makes pipe reamers that big but they are way to coarse for acrylic, to me a reamer would need be fine tooth & very sharp not to chip the acrylic, I have many different types of reamers so without knowing the exact type mentioned I wouldn't know how well that would work.
 
Well Ridged makes pipe reamers that big but they are way to coarse for acrylic, to me a reamer would need be fine tooth & very sharp not to chip the acrylic, I have many different types of reamers so without knowing the exact type mentioned I wouldn't know how well that would work.

Ive got a few and the biggest is about 1" and $200. Pipe reamers not the same as machinist reamers and bite real deep into pvc and acrylic.


Don
 
Just slip the hole saw blade size that matches the existing hole onto the hole saw bit and then slip on the size that you want. The first acts as the guide as the second enlarges your hole.
Pat
 
Just slip the hole saw blade size that matches the existing hole onto the hole saw bit and then slip on the size that you want. The first acts as the guide as the second enlarges your hole.
Pat

Thats a great idea.:) Probably the easiest of all.

Don
 

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