Joint separation on 180 acrylic tank

[Echris]

The top joints are separating on my 2+ year old 180 acrylic tank on both the left and right sides. I was thinking of drilling a small hole just big enough for the tip of the glue tube and forcing glue back into the joint. Has anyone done this and has it worked? Other options would be welcome as well.

Oh and the separations are about 4" long with one not totally separated and the other one with salt creep coming out.

Thanks
Eric

 

[Scooterman]

Send DonW a PM on this, he works with acrylic & may be able to help you, go ahead & post the info here as It may help others also!

Welcome to RF BTW!!

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Eric, is the tank currently full of water? Custom what brand? If full, get a plan B set up soon, I have seen the results of tanks blowing their seams while full of water. Not predictable, pretty nor fun!

 

[Echris]

Thanks I will give Don a try.

As for the tank, it is full of water and I have tried to contact IAP about this several times over the last year + with little to no success. Since it has gotten worse the only option I am left with is trying to fix it myself before it blows.

 

[kevinpo]

Hello,
My tank did the same thing and I had it repaired but it only lasted about 2 years longer before a much larger area (including the repaired area) came loose. IMO you need to start looking for a repacement as soon as possible.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[Echris]

I have been thinking about getting a new tank but to spend more $$$$ in such a short time makes 2 years look really good. Not only that but I would want to do things differently so that would require a new stand and hood as well as some new lights.

DonW did suggest cutting the top off and replacing it with a new sheet. This is a great solution but by the time it’s done it would be almost half the tanks original price.

Kevin,

How did they repair it?


Eric

 

[Herefishyfishy]

The only repairs I have seen last were fusing on support brackets or angles over the failed joint. Basically it adds an acrylic frame. Doesn't look as good but can be done with tank full and it works.

 

[Echris]

I was thinking about that after seeing some other threads where that had been done. Do you think a 2 inch angle 1" each side would work? If so my hood would cover the whole thing.

 

[DonW]

If your canopy overlays the sides you could always glue it and screw it. Use stainless machine screws. The problemis is the acrylic is breaking down and its already contaminated with salt. Since the top is comming off there really is no good place to overlay a patch.


Don

 

[mojoreef]

Another issue is that the tank settles in when it has water in it (as in creates it own shape) when you do a repair/patch/angles when it has water in it you are locking it down in its current shape which usually creates stress on different joints and areas. I would suggest that if you take the repair route you do it when its empty. Another option is also to concider using a metal brace, as in an angle iron frame to slide over the top of the tank. It shouldnt be tobd looking and eliminates glueing


take care

Mike

 

[Herefishyfishy]

There are some pretty affordable 180s for sale. Heres a 180 glass that could be bought for very cheap, PM him...
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28973

 

[Echris]

Ok I am convinced repairs are temporary at best and no substitute for a new tank.

Now with that said. Is this an inherent problem with acrylic and is Starphire glass better or did I just get a defective tank?

Eric

 

[mojoreef]

Usually its comes down to a faulty joint at the building stage, although lighting and such can play a part. As per Starfire it is a clearer grade of glass, so no green tint when you look through it.


Mike

 

[Scooterman]

Usually its comes down to a faulty joint at the building stage, although lighting and such can play a part. As per Starfire it is a clearer grade of glass, so no green tint when you look through it.


Mike

Look at what the wind blew in!

Good seeing you Mike!