LED Lighting

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Grey Legion

Proud member of The MFC
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
98
Location
Ontario, Canada
As a few of you may know I am lucky enough to be testing a LED lighting system in conjunction with T5's.

I thought I would post some facts in regards to the LED's of course as this technology is still in the developement stage it is still considered trial and error.

Wavelengths.gif


First and foremost these LED's were originally intended for growing plants (POTted plants) ;)

They were then switched over the aquarium due to the demand of effecient and cost effective lighting, the results for FW planted tanks were amazing, so we are taking the next step.

Plant Grow Light Efficiency

greater than 90%
Targeted Plant Growth & Health
Peak Spectrum

greater than 95%
Operating Temperature

less than 15 degrees Fahrenheit
above ambient temperatures
Operating Life

8 years estimated, with 0% plant
light production degradation
Power Consumption

3-9 Watts
Power Supply

International 120/240
Electrical Hazard

No
Fire Hazard

No
Glass Breakage Hazard

No
Peripheral Support Needed

No
Ultra-Violet Light Emissions

No
White-light pollution

No
Environmental Impact

Minimal
Time to Full Output After Power
Interruption

Instant full power
Configurations Considerations for
deployment

No
3 Arrays of 38 LED’s

Target the light frequencies that
plants rely on for growth and health.
Fixture Mounting Considerations

User option, LED Grow Master
products are easily mounted within
foliage either vertically or
horizontally.
Bar Weight

.75 lbs 22” x 2.5” x 1”
Sun Mount


1.5 lbs 28” x 6” x 1”
Power Adaptor

.75 lbs 3” x 3” x 7”

This is where the problem came in, since they are focused on the red spectrum of light I am testing the results with simple NO T5's 2 atinics and 2 10K's with a total output wattage of 84 watts.

The first stage of testing on a reef setup is complete with mixed results, first off no other light source was used coral grew but grew strange, the light was missing something, yet corals moved into the strongest parts of lights. So with the addition of the T5's we hope to see a new level of growth in our litle 35G test tank..

More to follow..
 
Interesting...Good luck with the test and thanks for sharing the info with us. I'm sure a lot of people will find this thread interesting as many are considering L.E.D lighting:)
 
Their red alright :D I don't think they will have very good PAR, the water will suck out that red light quickly. Red light in water has a very low extinction coefficient. It is the first light to be filtered out of water. It also has almost have of the energy of far blue light.
 
Their red alright :D I don't think they will have very good PAR, the water will suck out that red light quickly. Red light in water has a very low extinction coefficient. It is the first light to be filtered out of water. It also has almost have of the energy of far blue light.

Good point, but they do yield growth in marine tanks and that has been proven by tests.

They are very bright, looking at them is not a good idea, and they also contain blue LED's. Sadly I am no up to speed on them yet so don't know all the techie terms, as far as I am concerned it will not matter if they work, the set I am testing is a early beta version the alpha version contains far more "blue" light..
 
Good point, but they do yield growth in marine tanks and that has been proven by tests.

They are very bright, looking at them is not a good idea, and they also contain blue LED's. Sadly I am no up to speed on them yet so don't know all the techie terms, as far as I am concerned it will not matter if they work, the set I am testing is a early beta version the alpha version contains far more "blue" light..

Can you tell us what corals are in the tank and how far below the water surface they are?

Don
 
Can you tell us what corals are in the tank and how far below the water surface they are?

Don

As far as I know, all softies ( zoos, xenia..etc ) and about 12-18" of depth.

Nothing to expensive was used in the first stage of testing in case things went bad.. but from my understanding they growth was kinda off do to the lack of blue/white light. That is the stage I am testing our hopes is this will be a entry level LED costing about 1/5 of the solaris units and plans or to use these for smaller tanks maybe even nano's and pico's or fuge's ??

At any rate it is exciting to be part of this test and this hobby, as long as this does not turn into a heated debate I will continue to post my findings and results..
 
My impression of LED's was that they can manufacture them in any spectrum they want, from infrared (which we use at work on our auto-track survey equipment) all the way to ultraviolet. And I was also under the impression that they can do this very accurately. The infrared LEDs we use on our survey equipment, for example, (located in the reflector that the feild person carries with him/her) put out a very specific wavelength that is picked up by a photocell in the survey insturment that is designed to read that exact wavelength. The result is we can lock onto the reflector very precisely, even at great distances (2000-3000 feet), without interference from other infrared sources around it. So obvioulsy LED technology is good enough to make them produce very precise spectral qualities.

If you are seeing such a large spike in the red area of the spectrum on the LEDs you are using, could this not be overcome by simply using a different LED that has a more white/blue spectral output?

MikeS
 
That is correct Mike and is what Solaris did. They use White and Blue LED's only and with many more white than blue.
 
That is correct Mike and is what Solaris did. They use White and Blue LED's only and with many more white than blue.

So that would explain the higher red peak overall....

Shouldn't this problem be easily fixed by either using a more "white" LED that has less red light or higher K, or by changing the ratio of white to blue lights in the fixture? Seems to me perhaps just a design flaw in that particular fixture rather than an issue with LED generated light to start with...opionions anybody?

MikeS
 
I have seen LED prototypes for a company I can not name and they were stunning to say the least. So stunning in fact that when I saw a small 12" fixture I thought it was moonlights until I got up close and turned the fixture towards me. This company hopes its products will be for sale early in 2007 but I would not be surprised if it is later then that. They will change the industry, the PFO stuff is garbage and more expensive then this company's product. Aquamedic's used to make a heck of a fixture 5 years ago but for some reason is putting out a lower quality product. As soon as I get my fixture to test I will post my findings. But halides will be a thing of the past. And these products will all be made in the USA.
 
I have an article that is about LED lights, I was impressed. I have never done business with the company so I can't validate anything about the company or the article on their site other than it was interesting. I'm still looking into lighting for my new project, wish LED was proven and affordable and I would be all over it! (Moderator, please tell me if I am stepping over the line submitting an article that could be perceived as advertising?!?!?!?)

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/8/review2
 
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Mike

I think the issue with these light is they were designed for home plants and not us. Here is their website. There is nothing on aquatics.

http://www.led-grow-master.com

VHO

LED's will be the light of the futrure for sure as there is so much you can do with them.

PFO's are garbage based on what studies have you done ?

They are making changes as we speak. And none of these other lights in discussion have all the thrill like things you get with PFO, that is if one wants them or needs them bujt is the reason for the high price. They will be putting out a no thrills light. I palyed with one at MACNA.

Bren

China

Yes that is for sure. :D

There was a thing on TV last night that 40 of the richest guys in the world are now Chinese :lol:
 

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