Lighting questions

[ctazmartin]

I plan to set up an 85 gal tank (front glass is 48X30) which hopefully will someday contain corals, anenomes and clownfish. I have read alot about lighting & intend to build a polished aluminum light hood containing two 400w mogul base sockets w/ electronic H.I.D. ballasts (remote mounted). I plan to include some Fluorescent tubes, but haven't determined which style. I will definately need to include cooling fans and a glass bottom. Now, to the questions. 1) Will all pulse start 400w ballasts work will all of the new aquarium 400w bulbs? 2) How much live rock would you recommend to provide a good start on filteration & add some good height to fill the 30"? 3)Can I use clean dried crushed coral under live sand on the bottom? 4) My reading inplies that some test kits are junk, what will I need?
I have dozens more questions, but that's all for now. I am looking forward to getting back into salt water, its been a long time & looking forward to help from some of your members. I'm very impressed by the tank pictures posted. Thanks,
Chris Martin

 

[NaH2O]

Welcome to Reef Frontiers!!!

Let me see if I can answer some of your questions. On the ballast - I'm not sure what an H.I.D. ballast is?? Hopefully someone else can help out with the ballast and bulb question. Any particular reason why you want to build a reflecting hood, instead of purchasing or making reflectors? You might get better light coverage with reflectors. Here are a bunch of articles on lighting that might help you if you haven't read through them before. The first link takes you to Sanjay's site, and you can search performance data on specific lamps and ballasts:

Reef Lighting Page by Sanjay Joshi

Spectral Analysis of 400W Metal Halide Lamps Used In The Reef Hobby

Analyzing Reflectors Part I by Sanjay Joshi and Timothy Marks

Analyzing Reflectors: Part II

Analyzing Reflectors Part III

Spectral Analysis of MH Lamps - Do ballasts make a difference

On how much live rock - the rule of thumb is 1-2 pounds per gallon, but sometimes that could be too much rock or too little. It depends on the density of the rock. I have approximately one pound per gallon in my tank, and I do my best to make sure there aren't any stagnant spots where detritus can collect.

I would not recommend using crushed coral under live sand. Eventually the sand will settle down and the CC will end up at the surface. Also, CC can trap detritus and cause water quality issues.

I have had great results from Salifert test kits. They are easy to use, and are accurate.

 

[mmkeeper]

Here is a great place to get your test kits. They have some of the best prices and a quick turn around on shipping.http://www.maroonlagoon.net/

 

[ctazmartin]

Thank you

Thank you both. I have spent many hours surfing your web site & OMG you all are amazing. I am not worthy, but maybe with tons of help I'll get there someday.
Nikki, has pointed me in the right direction, but I still need tons of help. I am still in the early planning stage & have nothing, but 5 & 1/2 pieces of 1/2" glass that will soon be my tank. I am finding that I can't design my hood until I figure out the plumbing, sump is definately in order (seen some cool DIY here). Am I reading this correctly? As big as will fit under the take should be OK? Hide a protein skimmer, heater & ?? down there also. Closed loop for circulation also? Wondering about size for pumps and the skimmer.
Looking for advice and an expensive shopping list.
Thanks in advance, you guys (& gals) are great.
Chris

 

[Astro's Reef]

I've been researching my setup for a year and a half now, so i can only offer what i've learned. First off I would be a little sceptical building my own tank. I'm all for diy and "cutting corners" when possible but IMO the main tank shouldnt be one of them. (Unless of course your a glass expert..lol) Definetly need a sump. Bigger is better simply because the more volume of water in the system the more stable it will be. Skimmer, heater, dosing pump, auto top off can all be housed under the tank with the sump. Closed loop is a great way to provide circulation. The pump doesnt add heat because its external and you can aim several outlets in what ever direction you want. As far as the pump size... I think your total gallons per hour (gph) can be up to 10x the water volume. I'm not positive but i'm sure someone will correct me on this. One thing you need to consider that you didnt mention is drilling your tank (for overflow box in tank) or using a hang on overflow box. Another reason why its easier to just buy a tank with built in overflow box. Usually tanks are drilled for the closed loop as well but not necessary.
I may have inadvertently created more questions than helpful info... but i tried. LoL. The more experienced folks here will elaberate on what im trying to get across.

Good luck!

 

[ctazmartin]

My son bought the tank for me, real good price but they said it leaked. While removing the globbed on silicone & reading about fixing a leak it started to seem easier to take the whole thing down and (after a leak check) know it's good to go. I will admitt after several hours cleaning silicone, wish I would have just bought a new one (please don't tell my kid).
Chris

 

[Astro's Reef]

I wont. Lol

Your much braver than me. I would be petrified that the tank would crumble once filled.

 

[brianblack]

FWIW - If you are building the tank yourself make sure the glass thickness will hold the pressure (remember depth is the key here) and use new glass - I learned the hard way with 100 gal DIY with some used glass my father had laying around. It was just a fresh water set up but 100gal on the floor and frantically moving the fish to another system well that is a life lesson for sure. The fracture happened 1 month or so after setup. Luckily I was in the room when I heard the crack rip across the back of the tank. After replacing the two large side panels it has been working fine ever since. Will prolly buy manufactured tanks from now on.