LPS question
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wrightme43
Well-known member
The large refers to the size of the poylop in relation to its skeleton. The hammer is a aggressive coral with long sweeper (attacking) tentecles. The frogspawn is a relitively mild in aggression type of coral. In a 15 gal tank they hammer can be assured of killing the frogspawn with time. The way to avoid that, is risky but if you have flow from one side of the tank to the other and put the frogspawn upflow of the hammer the sweeper tenc. will have a hard time zapping the f.s. coral. Hope that helps. In a 15 a 96 watt quad style bulb pc will keep them both happy. I have and do keep both under pc lighting. HTH Steve
i really have to disagree with the following statement Steve that you made about hammers and frogspawn corals not living together and one killing the other. they are both euphillia species.and i have kept both together for quite sometime (years). ieven have pictures of such in my photo album with their tentical innermixed and neither had detrimental results.
Hammers and froggies will live together better than either with a torch, another euphyllia, but in a closed system you takes your chances. It's the same thing with "reef safe fish". Steve has a good idea with putting froggie upstream from the hammer, I think, just to make sure. HTH
wrightme43
Well-known member
I have been wrong before and will be again. Not a problem at all. I will check on it, and find out. Steve
wrightme43
Well-known member
Ok looked at E. Bornemans book no helpful info on this subject. My reasoning is based on touching a branching hammer with my wrist and getting zapped and it hurting. And touching a frogspawn with my hand and wrist and no zap. That is not a very good reason for a blanket statement. I apoligize for not having anything back up what I said other than ancedotel evidence. I try not to do that. I was wrong to say that, but I sure thought I was right. It happens. LOL To me especially. LOL Steve
wrightme43
Well-known member
sounds good. Should be ok.
wrightme43
Well-known member
Since I dont have that book yet could you condense the info for us here?
Aggression can be highly variable among species. I have a brown-with-green-centers candycane that wipes out any part of a solid green candycane next to it that it can touch.
I also have a green M. cap close to an orange M. digitata. The growth rate of the digitata significantly decreased when the M. cap got close. Kind of a milder form of aggression, causing the digitata to waste energy in defense instead of growth.
Sometimes, species can live side-by-side with no apparent problems. The alveoporas in my avatar seem to be unaffected by each other's presence.
With the small volume available in a 15-gal tank, I would probably focus on corals that grew more slowly, or that did not have long sweepers (so that there would be less chance of aggression with neighbors).
I also have a green M. cap close to an orange M. digitata. The growth rate of the digitata significantly decreased when the M. cap got close. Kind of a milder form of aggression, causing the digitata to waste energy in defense instead of growth.
Sometimes, species can live side-by-side with no apparent problems. The alveoporas in my avatar seem to be unaffected by each other's presence.
With the small volume available in a 15-gal tank, I would probably focus on corals that grew more slowly, or that did not have long sweepers (so that there would be less chance of aggression with neighbors).
orion76
Active member
leesanhua said:
Not putting them near each other may prove to be tough in a 15 gallon, these guys grow fast and can develop huge sweepers!
I believe hammers and frogspawns are mostly compatible though.
sorry it took me a while to respond to the posing to respond and condense aquarium care for euphilla species. this is quoted form the reef aquarium
Once established,all Euphilla species are hardy.with the frogspawn being the hardiest and the torch being the most sensitive with the rest falling between. all require alot of room for expansion. allow 6 in around the skeleton to avoid stinging neighbor corals. sweeper tenticals are regularly formed by Euphyllia spp.,and they may span 1 ft or more in search of a targeted neighbor. euphyllia should onl be maintained in a large aquarium unless one wishes to keep only Euphyllia. in a small aquarium, less than 50 gal most euphyllia will grow too large with in a year. In fact, it would be preferable if collectors would choose smaller specimens only.
Most euphyllia species are compatable with eachother,which means they can be placed adjacent to eachother, allowing the expanded polyps and tenticals to mix. this creates a spectacular display. torches are the exception to this rule. it is not as com patable with other euphyllia species. it can touch but fares much better when it is not crowded by other species..
i hope this will help you out with your question. like i posted before I've kept both together for years and even have pictures to prove it. Any one who had seen my tank knows all i keep are lps corals. i have grape, fox, frogspawns, torches, pearl, plate, cups, swollen brain, hammer.
with such a small aquarium you should try sps corals since your tank has such limited space. you could get a much wider diversity of corals. i don't like to discourage people. but if a brown jelly broke out in such a small tank you could loose the whole tank in less than 24 hours.
Once established,all Euphilla species are hardy.with the frogspawn being the hardiest and the torch being the most sensitive with the rest falling between. all require alot of room for expansion. allow 6 in around the skeleton to avoid stinging neighbor corals. sweeper tenticals are regularly formed by Euphyllia spp.,and they may span 1 ft or more in search of a targeted neighbor. euphyllia should onl be maintained in a large aquarium unless one wishes to keep only Euphyllia. in a small aquarium, less than 50 gal most euphyllia will grow too large with in a year. In fact, it would be preferable if collectors would choose smaller specimens only.
Most euphyllia species are compatable with eachother,which means they can be placed adjacent to eachother, allowing the expanded polyps and tenticals to mix. this creates a spectacular display. torches are the exception to this rule. it is not as com patable with other euphyllia species. it can touch but fares much better when it is not crowded by other species..
i hope this will help you out with your question. like i posted before I've kept both together for years and even have pictures to prove it. Any one who had seen my tank knows all i keep are lps corals. i have grape, fox, frogspawns, torches, pearl, plate, cups, swollen brain, hammer.
with such a small aquarium you should try sps corals since your tank has such limited space. you could get a much wider diversity of corals. i don't like to discourage people. but if a brown jelly broke out in such a small tank you could loose the whole tank in less than 24 hours.
wrightme43
Well-known member
Thanks Dave. I appreciate it. Sometimes my best thinking is just wrong. LOL imagine that..... LOL I love my froggies. Didnt know they could sweep out to a foot though. Thanks man. Steve
what kind of lighting requirement for sps coral? i have 36watt blue light and 36 watt daylight. it's a compact flurocent.
huh? the brown jelly will broke out? i didn't know about that. under what situation it will broke out?
if it's getting too big. can i cut them put like make to a small frag and give it to my friends?
huh? the brown jelly will broke out? i didn't know about that. under what situation it will broke out?
if it's getting too big. can i cut them put like make to a small frag and give it to my friends?
to properly keep corals you need approx 4 to 5 watts of light per gallon.
Brown jelly, disintergration of coral tissue. it can move several inches per day and can consume an entire coral head per day. it usually comes from injury or stress. i have never found any cure for the condition. best bet is to get the infected coral out of the tank cause it can spread rapidly. specially if it gets into the water collum. in 14 years i have never seen a coral head recover from brown jelly. now if i ever see it i remove the whole colony from my system. and consider the colony a loss. it is better than loosing multiable colonies.
Brown jelly, disintergration of coral tissue. it can move several inches per day and can consume an entire coral head per day. it usually comes from injury or stress. i have never found any cure for the condition. best bet is to get the infected coral out of the tank cause it can spread rapidly. specially if it gets into the water collum. in 14 years i have never seen a coral head recover from brown jelly. now if i ever see it i remove the whole colony from my system. and consider the colony a loss. it is better than loosing multiable colonies.
first the polyp will no longer expanedoften times it is extremly retracted to the point where you will see parts of the skeleton under the polyp followed by a brown gelatinous mass forming on the tissue thus called brown jelly
ok. the frogspwan is getting bigger and bigger now. i would like to cut it.. like what you guys say "propagation". how do i do that?
should do it in the water? or get it out and cut it?
i would like to give it to my friend.
thank you.
should do it in the water? or get it out and cut it?
i would like to give it to my friend.
thank you.
